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hey everyone welcome to my channel i'm
summer today we're doing another haircut
tutorial today i'm going to be showing
you guys how i go about achieving my
shorter layer haircuts on clients who
also want to keep their length a lot of
times we just have your standard long
layered haircuts or your bobs but often
we still get clients who like their long
hair but they want a lot of movement and
texture so i'm going to be showing you
how i do that i'm also going to be doing
some nice face framing so you also get
that texture around the face so let's
get to it okay so i'm going to start off
by showing you guys how i do my
sectioning i always just tend to cut
right down the middle with a lot of
clients if your client has a specific
part go ahead and cut to their part line
but for this video i'm just going to
keep it down the middle okay so her hair
is parted down the middle and then i
like to just come right
at the ear not too far back
kind of close to the tip of the client's
ear
we're just gonna bring that hair forward
and clip up out of the way
and repeat the same on the other side
right close to the tip of that ear
bring it forward
okay now that we are to the back
i usually like to
take my back section you can just bring
it all the way down or you can also go
ahead and part it right in the middle
creating two sub sections if you're
wanting to keep the cleanest lines
possible just to ensure that your guide
is always in place you can always see it
it just kind of helps things stay nice
and neat so that's what i like to do
and then i will make two additional
subsections off of these two
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and then i'll have my client look down a
little bit when i'm cutting below the
occipital bone and cut my perimeter
so like i said i'm not really trying to
take off too much length i'm just trying
to even it out because this front was a
little bit shorter
so i'm just taking just a little bit off
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so one of the things i do
like about the two partings here it just
when you're moving section to section to
cut your perimeter it just keeps it
cleaner like i said
especially with people who have a ton of
hair
um it's definitely easier with the two
sections to clip the hair up rather than
trying to clump it all together with one
big section
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so once you get basically past the curve
of the hair here the occipital you can
go ahead and have your client just i
always tell them just look normal and
bring their head back up in the upright
position
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so what i also like to do while cutting
the perimeter i will just take my two
outer corner pieces bring them to the
middle to make sure that they're lining
up right just to make sure that my guide
is straight and now that i'm up past the
halfway point i'll probably just bring
the rest down and cut straight across
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okay so now that we have cut the
perimeter what you're going to want to
discuss also in your consultation is
what's the shortest layer that your
client wants to see while keeping their
length i'd like to also tell clients who
want to keep the length but see more
layers than like a traditional long
layer to still keep in mind how long
their hair might be
if they've got crazy long hair you
obviously don't want to do
you know a layer that's going to only be
like
this long on top you want it to still
flow nice but you can easily create more
layers and movement by shortening the
layers without it being so extreme if
that makes sense so today i'm going to
basically be bringing the shortest piece
just a little bit kind of in the ear
right at her jaw area i still like to
have some bend and movement for my
shortest piece on top
and you can always go a little longer
and cut into it more once it's dry if
need be but i do want to stress the
importance of still having a little bit
of movement and bend in that shortest
layer so that way they can create height
and still like a curl pattern if they're
gonna curl their hair and whatnot okay
so i basically will start my layers off
sort of similar to how i do a long
layered haircut
i like to flip my comb back and forth to
really get some good tension
so i'm gonna bring it out
let that base weight fall because we're
trying to keep the length which you need
a little bit of thickness and weight
here to do so
so bring that all the way out
and cut
move up
see the guide
cut
and then we're gonna go all the way at
the top here
cut
okay so now that we have created like
our standard long layer
layers
to get that extra shortness
so what we're going to do is we're going
to bring the whole hair up
and you're going to twist your fingers
and your hand almost straight
and where that point is here at your
finger that's going to become your
shortest layer
so kind of bring that down
with your hand just to make sure you're
still getting some bend and shape in the
hair
so we're going to bring it up
and twist those fingers up
go from your top point
and point cut into that top piece
so now that we have created this shorter
layer what i like to do to make more of
a seamless blend
is i will come in pull the hair and do
more of an angle
with this section here
so
just to kind of you can see
where your guide here is
and the guide kind of up here and you're
going to cut this little in between
if that makes sense just slightly it's
not taking a ton of length off you're
not losing your weight down here and
then i like to just come back down
twist
see that hair dropping off
you still have this little corner piece
here and just lightly point cut into
that
and then we're going to move on to our
next section
so then moving on to our next section
you're just going to take some of what
you had there go into your next little
bit so you keep a guide
bring it out
cut
bring it up follow that guide
and then once you get to your top again
i kind of like to bring it a little bit
back to the center if you can for your
top piece but you're going to bring it
up twist those fingers
and cut
and then again as you go back down the
head almost
twist
and cut what's left out on top there
go back down twist let that hair fall
out from the bottom
and
cut again bring out let that bottom fall
cut
and then again when we're coming in the
top bring it straight up
twist
and by this point you start seeing your
guide a little bit better so it's not
quite as maybe intimidating at first if
you're new to cutting a little bit
shorter layers
the importance of twisting is letting
your last section fall out so you're not
over cutting and then we're gonna go
back down
twist
to cut those little hairs that are still
sticking out here
all right now we're on to our last
little section here right behind her ear
again
bring it out
let that hair fall find your guide
cut
cut
and then
just kind of twist ever so slightly by
the time you get to this very end piece
there's really not much twisting that
you need to do just because of the way
the hair is falling it's a little less
hair to work with if that makes sense
and then we're going to repeat and do
the same on the other side okay so now
on the other side we're going to do the
same thing
bring that hair out find your guide and
cut
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and twist up see that piece was a little
bit left over from the first section
come out
cut
bring it up
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we've got some little random guys here
so just cut those
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once you usually get into your like
secondary side it is
flows a little bit better just because
you've already created all your guides
so it's easier to see everything and
you've got the movement of it down
and again just twist
and cut
and then we're gonna go back down the
hair
bring it out
twist
cut
twist
and just barely cut
and now before moving on to blend in her
sides i like to just go through
everything a little bit one more time
of kind of checking before i dry
and i always pull out and twist
don't forget to do that it's kind of an
important step i feel for getting
the layers short enough with enough
movement
and always remember keep that bottom
part let it fall out so you're not
cutting into the length
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so what i also like to do for my final
step in the back is i'll just take my
comb and come across to pull out like
her very top layer
essentially and you're just going to
bring it straight up to kind of double
check everything
and then pull it all the way up and what
you're going to do is just even out
that top line so i can see my guide
right here the shortest piece and same
over here and we're just going to cut
into this middle
and let it back down
so our shortest piece falls right here
and then you can still take a little bit
bigger
you've still got enough bend here and
the hair for when we go to blow dry if
they're wanting a lot of volume and
movement and when you curl the hair as
well
okay and then we're just gonna blend in
the sides
i'm big on still creating those sub
sections for your sides i don't like to
just bring all the hair down and cut
straight across
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okay so to cut the
layers on the sides
i tend to kind of focus the hair pulling
it back away from the face i am going to
be doing a lot of face framing so that
does cut into
like the weight and length in the front
but if your client's not wanting a ton
of face framing i do like to kind of
pull away from the face just so you're
kind of assuring you're keeping that
length at your perimeter so you're going
to take your first section here you're
going to pull it up and away and twist
your hands you're going to see your
guide almost kind of let the hair fall
out there
and then keep that hand at an angle
and cut
same thing here
bring it up and away
twisting that hand
let that hair fall
and cut
uh
very front piece all the way back
twisting
and cut
and then i kind of check it in the same
manner
bringing it kind of down at an angle and
cutting if you need to
like i said i'm going to be doing a
decent amount of face framing so that
kind of changes how it's going to lay
here
and then i'm going to repeat the same on
the other side
okay and then on our other side we're
just gonna take our section
go up and away
twisting letting that hair fall out
and cut
next section
up and away twist let that hair fall
and cut
all the way back twist
and cut
okay so what i like to do before i cut
the face frame i will just kind of
separate at the ear here on both sides
and i will take my top layer
similar to how i did the back it doesn't
have to be like completely precise
and i'm just going to bring it up
and i like to you'll see your guide a
little bit
i don't know how well you guys can see
it here or not
but it's about right there
and i angle it back just ever so
slightly for the top and then point cut
into that
and then now we're gonna cut our face
framing
okay so what i like to do for the face
framing i'll just kind of separate right
at the ear area
and i'll just pull that hair back
and kind of clip it out of the way
we're going to do the same on this side
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so again with your client you're going
to figure out where they want their
shortest piece what we're gonna be doing
is kind of bringing her shortest layer
around her face right basically at her
mouth so we're gonna pull the hair down
and i try to kind of match my finger to
basically where i want that shortest
piece to fall
and then what i like to do is just angle
my hands i take my scissor
and i just literally kind of sliver
going down more straight than angled
because i don't always like to cut in
too hard at first
because sometimes what happens is you
end up taking like too much of a chunk
and then it creates like this shelf here
that it's harder to blend in so i like
to pull my scissors more straight down
rather than going straight back if that
is making sense
so even that you can see
a little bit the angle that it's already
creating just by slivering down and then
what i'm gonna do is just continue to
bring the hair in to match that up
so again now we have a little bit more
of a guide
see that guide and then again
just sliver in
moving only that thumb
and coming down rather than straight
back
bring the next piece a little bit
forward
we're going to cut all of this
so once you get over here to like your
little bit of a last piece it's easier
to see and you can almost just either
cut up into it or still do it the way
i've been doing it so i'm just going to
keep showing you guys how i've been
doing it
so right here
come in
and just slipper
we have that last little bit there just
gonna point cut
so we have a nice little angle going
there
and then i'm gonna do the same on the
other side
what i like to do too before i cut too
much into the other side i'll just kind
of bring down my guide here
and then lightly just angle so i have
already a little bit of a guide going
for myself
so i don't get too lost in this next
side
so we're going to do the same thing
take this first little area
bring it down have your hands at an
angle bring your scissors moving only
your thumb
and just go straight down
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i already have a little angle going
there though
you can also come on to the other side
of them
pull it down
angle your hands down and come up from
that bottom
so match your side here or match your
shortest point here bring your hand all
the way down
come down at your lowest point
and angle up
bring it forward angle those hands down
cut up
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that last piece in
and bring it up
i like to bring these two pieces forward
see
what might be shorter or longer they're
matching up pretty well
and then what i like to do to balance
out
my front angles
i will take right along their ear
and i'm just gonna bring it forward
twist
let it fall and cut this top
and do the same on this just keep moving
forward with it
bring it all the way forward
twist let it fall
and cut that top piece
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and we're gonna do the same on the other
side
i'm gonna bring it out
forward twist it
and cut it
so what this does is it just kind of
layers into the front pieces a little
bit
more to blend it in
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bring it forward twist let that fall
and cut
and then if you want to get really
precise to even it out i like to just
bring it up
and over
and cut what's left out from that little
guide
i've just always found this is kind of
like a good cross checking basically for
your front
face framing layers just to kind of make
sure they meet up as best as possible
all the way over
okay
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my last last step before drying is i'll
just comb back out the back that i had
clipped up for my sides
and what i like to do
is i just lightly bring it forward
just to make sure see how this little
guy here
sticking out what i like to do is just
to bring that forward let down that back
bring it forward and cut any little bit
that might still be out just to blend it
in with the back
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and then i'm gonna check my face framing
some
make sure it matches up
i like to just kind of pop a squat in
front of their face but obviously
it's hard to do on camera but you can
also bring
their pieces in front of your mirror and
look down at them
to get a good reading of that as well
okay now i'm gonna go ahead and blow dry
her and then we'll do a little bit of
dry cutting and cross checking some more
and texturizing
okay so we have her styled now i tried
to give her a lot of like bend and
movement with the blow dry so you guys
can see the layers
so much more movement and shape than
maybe your standard a long layered
haircut so what i like to do now is go
in and texturize if you have watched any
of my previous
cutting videos i'm always big on dry
cutting and texturizing so a lot of
times with the shorter layers what can
happen is you get this little shelf
sometimes that happens so that's where
your thinning shears can come in handy
or some deep point cutting especially to
the thinning shears are great if your
client wants their ends a little bit
more textured looking
so i'm going to show you guys how i go
about doing that so as we see here it's
just a little
i call it mushroomy
so i'm just going to take
this
hair
and then just
go into it with my thinning shears to
soften that up
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so now that i've done that i just want
to go in
and kind of cross check and blend
anything that might not be blending so i
can even see a little bit in here still
we have a little bit of disconnection so
all you're going to do is kind of do
what i was doing when it was wet pull it
out with an angle so we're gonna pull it
out angle i can see in here and then
we're just gonna point cut into that
bring it down angle
and blend
we're going to go around the whole head
and do that cross-checking
so i see in here a little bit
point cut into there
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they're looking
better i'm going to do the same on the
other side
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and i also like to even though we
texturize this with the thinning shears
like to bring up that top layer and
really just deep point cut
into it
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soften that out a lot more
this is why i'm so big on the dry
cutting you never know how somebody's
hair is going to lay until you get it
dried and styled
dry cutting i feel like is honestly
it's just as important as like proper
sectioning everything because you need
to kind of go in and cut into where you
need to cut it after it's dried
okay so now that i've done kind of the
bulk of my texturizing what i still will
do is just kind of comb the hair down
and go through one more time if there's
any spots that i feel like in the middle
maybe right in here i kind of feel like
she's got a little bit of a disconnect
so i'm just going to kind of check it
with my eyes and go in and point cut
into any of those pieces just to soften
it up some more
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so
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okay so i went ahead and smoothed her
out a little bit with the flat iron just
so you could see it a little bit better
but yeah after all the dry cutting and
point cutting
to blend everything in we've got some
nice clean lines everywhere much more
movement our shortest piece is right in
here
so when your client who wants shorter
layers goes to curl their hair they'll
have a lot more texture if they like
that like wild messiness especially if
they have a little bit of wave in their
hair it'll kick up a little bit more
but that blends in much much better
let's see two from her side her face
framing just blends right in
lots of movement
looks nice i'm happy with it
okay guys here we have our finished look
we've got some nice framing around the
face for that extra movement we've got
tons of layers in the back so your
client's going to see a lot of texture a
lot of movement a lot of body you want
to keep in mind with your shortest piece
you still want to be able to see a
little bit of bend
when placing where that shortest piece
is going to be always remember to keep
your hand at an angle when creating that
extra shorter layer on top
dry cutting and point cutting is key
that's how you're going to create your
texture that's how you're going to fill
in any lines do not let your client
leave wet short layers is very vital
just like with a bob a lot of dry
cutting is needed with them so that is
very important do not let the client
leave wet always finish with a nice blow
dry and do the point cutting and dry
cutting and cross checking that you need
to so i hope you guys enjoyed the video
a short layered haircut is ideal really
for anybody who wants extra movement and
texture to their hair and just a bit
more
fun with it than your standard long
layered haircut so feel free to leave a
comment below i will be happy to answer
any questions please like share and
subscribe and i'll see you guys next
week
