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welcome barber to this men's scissor
cutting tutorial my name's michael holm
i've been cutting here for 20 years and
in this video i'm going to show you lots
of clever and simple ways to cut men's
hair with scissors i'm going to start
this haircut by wetting the hair down
and i'm going to start right in the
middle at the back of the head now some
of you may have seen this before on one
of my videos but this is a way that i
can control the hair and it gives me
access to all these sections underneath
the long hair from the occipital bone
with all that hair up above out of the
way it means i can go in at the
occipital bone and i can work my way
down in sections so i pick it up with
the scissor and then i place the comb
underneath
like i catch it with the comb and then i
can cut
so you're working your way down in this
fashion
the reason for this is if you work your
way up you work into piles of hair all
the hair that's higher up will lie on
top of your section
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with that section done we can step to
the side and we can do the same thing to
the side of that
if you could think of it as panels and
you're working your way down you're
probably going to need to do about five
panels so there's going to be like a
middle panel
panel to the side of that and then a
panel just by the ear which you're going
to work down
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now you'll notice that i put the point
of the scissor in
right behind the hairline at the back of
the ear and then slide in
it's quite important that you go in and
you make sure that you catch all the
hair from the hairline in
otherwise you're just going to be left
with long hair that you've missed
what's the trick to this method it's the
comb
watch the comb okay i've got it pinched
in my thumb and my forefinger and what i
do is i flip it over
now a good idea is to practice that at
home yourself just practice flipping the
comb i used to sit in a sofa and i would
just flip a comb over for like half an
hour just practicing to um build up
speed and
agility with the comb
that might sound strange but it worked
for me i would just watch something on
the tv and flip a comb over while i was
doing it
just work my way over on this last panel
now
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let's pull all this hair down now this
was all the long stuff we moved out of
the way and what i'm going to do is i'm
going to create like a a nice clean line
from the crown right down to the ear and
i'll just separate that out of the way
so i know that i've got this area under
control it's sectioned off and what
we're going to do is take a number of
sections but i'm looking for that short
hair that you just saw me cut a minute
ago
so if i pick this up here
at the very fingertips there's that
short hair there
so what i need to do is cut up the
fingers i've actually tilted my hand out
from the
crown a little bit and i'm just
following the length up so the short
hair is just going straight into more
short hair
which is getting gradually longer as it
goes up the way
that's what you would call a graduation
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for this area here and this method this
is more of a removal method you do need
to refine it as well i mean you can't
just take four or five strokes and
that's it done
let me show you how i would refine it
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if we comb all this down again now let's
just go back to the scissor over comb so
i'll just go in and i'll look for any
rough hair when you've been taking
vertical sections sometimes you find
that taking horizontal sections throw up
some sort of rough or uneven areas
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now i'm pulling it all in towards the
ear here i want to
beyond the hairline so i can cut down
and that way i know that no matter how
the wind blows or the hair it's not
going to stick out beyond the hairline
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i will work my way across over to the
other side i'll do the same thing and
refine it and then just go down the side
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now this area here is all cut and i'm
going to use that as my guide to join
into the length in the front
so if i separate the top out of the way
and pull all this hair down at the side
so that it's ready to be collected by
the comb
here we go okay so i've got some short
hair and some long hair and i'm going to
pull them together and i can see the
short hair in amongst the long hair and
that's the length for me to cut to
if i follow this forwards and i'm always
cutting to that guideline from my
previous
shorter section
then i know that by the time i get to
the front
it's all going to be the same length
now it will be rough that's something i
want to tell you here it's not going to
be pristine this is as i said a removal
method this vertical section what we
need to do after taking vertical
sections is comb it down and do
horizontal sections again
this is what really polishes the hair up
you have so much control when you do
this and
um
around the edges around the nape of the
neck it takes a bit of practice
but eventually you start to become very
very refined at cutting those areas and
you start getting tighter towards the
edges
taking small amounts off so keep
practicing keep practicing with this
method
when you get it you get it and you're
just going to love cutting hair like
this
i'm working my way down the sideburn
here i'm just taking the bulk off there
because i am going to go in with the
little trimmer once the hair is all
dried off later on
always cut away from the ear
so the back of the scissor is on the ear
and i close the scissor with the back of
the scissor on the ear
that's a safe way to cut now i can just
refine this a little bit
at the front of the face there i'm just
gonna cut around the hairline just cut
all this stuff off
as i said i don't need to worry too much
because i am coming back with the little
trimmer so let's not get too excited or
panic about that okay i'll tie in the
other side to match
and
i don't always work this quick
speed it up right
tidy that up and let's get on to the top
so i'm wetting it down again don't be
afraid to make sure that you have plenty
of water on your hair the more water the
better having plenty of water on the
hair keeps the hair under control
so this area at the back here i'm going
to comb that down and i'm just going to
make sure that there's nothing extra see
i've pulled some of the hair back from
the top to join into the crown and this
is going to be what i'm going to use as
my guide for cutting the top
i'm not going to do that profile section
that you sometimes see me do in videos
i'm going to cut the crown to a certain
length and it will work my way forward
there
okay so i've got the crown at a certain
length now and i can work my way forward
from there so separate this out
these are all my sections and i'm going
to work my way forward no need for a
profile section i can see the short hair
from my crown
and i just work my way forward to that
something you won't see me do in this
haircut is over direct the hair back
when i get to the front
now if you're not familiar with the
phrase over direction i'll leave a link
to an over direction video to explain
what over direction is to you but i'm
not over directing in this haircut
because i am cutting it quite long
so if i over direct
back
at the fringe
then the front of the hair is going to
be really long
so i'm just cutting it quite uniform on
top
by uniform i mean at the crown and at
the middle and at the front it's going
to be the same length no matter where i
pick it up
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okay so i'm working my way forward to
the front but
i am going to work on the front
separately as well i'm going to show you
another little method so i've got it
down to pretty much the length i want it
to be at the front but i'm going to
refine it with something that i'll show
you later on in this video as well
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okay at the side
we've got a short bit where that little
circle is in the middle and i'm going to
take all my sections and i'll be able to
see the short hair that i've already cut
um
in the middle
by my inside knuckle
so a comb width
this is something that i have mentioned
a few times in videos
use the width of your comb as
a marker for how much hair to pick up
and if it all fits in the teeth of your
comb then that's probably
a perfect amount of hair to pick up
if you're squashing it into the comb you
know like your comb you come in and you
pull even more into the comb you're
probably cutting too much hair
and
a constant question is
how do i get rid of scissor marks
well the answer to getting rid of
scissor marks is make sure your sections
are very very small
scissor marks are like lines that appear
in hair and it often happens when you
are cutting on straight hair
and that's when it's very obvious but it
can happen in a sort of wavy hair as
well you but you would almost not notice
a tall and curly hair because it all
curls up
scissor marks are generally a sign of
too big a section or you don't have the
correct tension on every section or
you're cutting your sections to
different lengths but the biggest
culprit is too big a section
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do
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i'm working my way forward just like i
did on the other side here
now so i've basically cut the whole top
and what i need to do is i need to join
in the top and the sides together
so i've come all out of the way and what
i'm going to do is i'm showing you this
from an overhead view this time i wanted
you to see the sort of angle that i pull
my hands out from the top
so
pick it up bend the fingers out
and then join the hair from the top to
the short hair on the side
now i know that the elbow police will be
telling me off
and if you're waiting there at your
keyboard waiting to tell me that i've
got terrible posture i know i have
terrible posture sometimes when i'm
cutting hair
and all i can say is sometimes i just
want to give you guys a shot i want to
give you an angle the correct angle
because really when you're cutting hair
you shouldn't have your elbow way up in
the air like i have here
at the front
i'm going to cut a number of sections
like this okay so there'll be a point in
the middle of the head
and i'll pick up these sections now what
i'm doing here is i'm removing weight
from behind the fringe
okay imagine i pulled a few little bits
of hair out of my fingers there at the
front after i picked it up
it would still form a fringe everything
else that's behind that is just lying on
top of the fringe so if you take some
hair away from behind it
it takes weight out of your fringe it
makes your fringe lighter
so
i've pretty much got the length that i
require here so all i need to do is just
go over this and make sure that there's
no extra long hair hanging out at the
front nothing that's going to go in his
eyes
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look at that there is a big sort of wave
at the front there a cow lick
so if i just relax that in the comb just
rest it on the comb
then i don't need to worry about it
springing up all over the place after
i've cut it
we still have all the work to do around
the sides but i'll give it a dry off
first i like to dry off first because
the electric trimmers they don't really
work very effectively on wet hair that's
because they're so fine the blade is
really fine and
it can't get through wet hair because
wet hair clumps together
so at the back of the ear we'll just
make a straight line
all the way down to the nape of the neck
i'm a big fan of this it's like it kind
of frames your work
and it does look so clean once you
remove that neck here i'll do the same
on the other side as well
obviously
as if i wouldn't as if i would do
something else on the other side
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okay i'm going up a little bit now i had
a little bit of a problem with this
this finish on the neck here because
my client has
quite a lot of neck hair and i want to
try and shorten the length of the neck
here so i'm coming up quite high
almost to the hairline and slightly
inside the hairline although i don't
normally do that but what i'm going to
do is
taper it with a half
and just add a little bit
and then i'll build up into that with
like perhaps um a one
and then a one and a half
this is just to kind of soften that
bottom area
sometimes i can find myself messing
around on the neck here for for ages and
there's nothing wrong with that you know
you can sit and kind of polish your work
for quite a while if you want to it's
totally up to you
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a little bit of vertical clipping over
comb just to take some weight off
i'm reluctant to really go into this
with a clipper guard on because i can
see myself just
doing a complete taper with clippers
here so i'm just being very careful
nibbling away just taking a small amount
off
don't go too crazy
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square the sides
and i'm just going to thin them down
i'll use the thickness of the comb here
to put the comb in and then just take
away all that kind of fluffiness
you don't always have to taper a
sideburn away or take it up really high
there's a different look for every
person
and
take the opportunity to work with all of
them
nowadays we have a lot of beards so
quite often you don't leave that shape
you're just kind of blending down into
facial hair
just trim away this stuff that's on the
face
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and don't forget to clean it all off and
keep your area tidy
all right i think i'm quite happy with
that what do you think do you like it
that's a gent scissor cut
if you want to learn more from me i do
teach barbering on udemy and i'll leave
links below for that
until next time all the best with your
gent scissor cuts and i will see you in
my next video
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you
