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what's up everybody this is Jesse
Linares with the Sam viajar team and we
teach a lot of classes and our field
programs we get asked all the time how
do I cut a blunt fringe or how do I
perfect a heavy bang so we put together
some stuff to show you today that's
gonna help you get there in a way that
is organized meticulous using guides
easily reproducible for those of you
that might be a little intimidated by
one of the most mystifying of services
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so we're gonna use reference points on
the head to help us identify where the
fringe anatomically is first we can't
cut it until we know where it is so I'm
gonna look for the corner of her eye
technically the corner of the eye is a
reference point on the head that lets us
know where the face is stopping or the
front of the head stops and where it
changes into the side of the head so I'm
gonna get for sectioning purposes right
in front of that corner of the eye and
then I can take my comb place it right
there vertically and if I just rock that
into the hairline you'll see the line
that we sectioned off right there to the
center and you'll see that that lands us
just in front of the high point of the
head most people won't actually make it
up there unless their head was perfectly
round most people have a little bit of
an oblong shape to the head so we will
find ourselves slightly in front of the
high point doing the same thing on the
other side corner of the eye get myself
right in front of it and then take my
comb and just rock that vertically into
the hairline and lands me in just
exactly the same place what this shows
us is where how much hair and how much
forehead she actually has for this
service we're going to begin by setting
a couple of guides just to let us know
where exactly we're gonna put these
points before we start to create the
fringe the guides will give us a certain
measure of safety instead of just
blasting that off and hoping for the
best we're gonna plan this out measure
three times cut once
so our first guide is gonna come from
the point of reference here at the
corner of the eye I'm gonna pull off
just a few hairs right there in the
hairline to give me something for a
guide I'll move to the other side of the
head and do exactly the same thing kind
of fell out on its own all right
we're gonna take one more at the center
of the front of the head I'll use the
bridge of the nose just to let me know
exactly where that is and I'll pull out
a few hairs right there too so now I
have a guide that will show me the
length at the center and then on both
sides I'm gonna focus on those for just
a moment I'm gonna take those and put
this away now that we've got our three
guide set we're ready to set those so we
can begin to articulate this shape at
the corner of the eye we're just going
to decide where we want the fringe to
stop on this right side once I know that
I can cut a guide do the same thing on
the left side and then once more in the
center I'm holding this with very little
tension just to keep it still once we
have these three points located we can
go ahead and take a little bit of hair
just a tiny thin little veneer or just a
veil of it so we can go ahead and set
that perimeter in our fringe so dropped
a little bit between these two guides
and now we'll step over here and drop a
little bit in front of the two other
guides and once again take the rest and
get it out of the way for now
so using these guides we can go ahead
and connect these two safely knowing
that they're exactly where they want to
be I'm going to use the wide teeth of my
short cutting comb just to keep all this
hair in place I don't want tension on
this I just want it to not push away as
I cut it so I'm gonna lift the hair
place the comb underneath and then just
kind of tap that hair in there what this
gives me is a very minimal amount of
elevation off the head just the width of
the spine of my comb about a quarter of
an inch and then I can adjust this to
meet my two guides and when I have that
I'm ready to make my cut
and then I'm just gonna go to the other
side and do the exact same thing close
your eye man
I'll reach across there
place the white teeth of my comb
underneath make sure that all my guides
are in there that way I'm getting just
that middle bit of elevation and then I
can adjust that angle until I can see
both of the guys clearly and then make
my cut so now I have my perimeter as it
were or my zero degree cut and now I can
begin to drop this down layer by layer
and just blend it to that so now that we
have our perimeter set we can just drop
in little by little and make sure that
we make those cuts cleanly in the past
sometimes it was easy for us just to tie
and take it all at once and that could
usually result in pushed hair unwanted
over direction and we find ourselves
chipping and chipping and chipping and
that little fringe when I intend to
climb up the forehead a little bit until
it gets cute and we don't want that so
we're going to take a tiny little bit of
hair and drop this down over the
perimeter that we've already cut if
you're worried about it getting out of
your control
just keep your section small and this
will help you maintain control over it
and I'm going to repeat the same
movements that we've done already we're
gonna step in front get in top
underneath that using the wide teeth of
our comb and set that under there making
sure that both of our guides are in
there and visible and that I'm not
getting any hair from the other side of
the head give that a little tap just to
press it up against the spine adjust
your angle to see both guides and if
your section is fine enough we'll be
able to see the previously cut hair
underneath it so we've got three ways to
check ourselves guide guide and
previously cut section if I can see all
three and I feel good I can make my cut
and let's step over to the other side
where we can do the same thing now we're
starting to see a little bit more of it
and we're getting a little bit more
confidence but don't rush keep your
movements fine and on purpose I've got
maybe two more sections that we can
accomplish here so we'll just drop that
into the mix isolate the other because
we don't need it right now
we'll fuss this into natural fall and
then repeat our same movements I'm
feeling really good now because we can
really see the fringe that's living
underneath it and we know that all we
have to do now is just stay consistent
and we're not going to mess it up give
that a little tap into the comb make
sure that you can see both of your
guides and the previously cut section
and we can make our cut
you know my weapon of choice for this is
our seven-inch dry cutting shear what I
love about using this tool for this is
that it allows my hand to be out of the
way the long blade in the comb
everything is totally visible and then
the very powerful sword blades that we
have really moved through that hair
securely confidently I don't feel like
I'm gonna get any push on this last
section we'll just drop that in give it
a little comb so you can see where it
lives
and then our movements should be obvious
we're gonna do exactly the same thing
we've been doing don't give up now why
teeth of my comb just tap that back in
feeling really good now I can see
everything including the hair that we
need to cut and we'll take it let's jump
to the other side and finish it up using
the wide teeth of the comb spine against
her skin
minimal elevation checking both guides
and looking for my previously cut
section once I see all three I'm good to
go
and that's gonna complete our heavy bang
across the front so before we move on
into anything else let's not drop the
clips and let anything else into the mix
let's just look at what we've done and
decide how we feel about it
once we know that we love this the rest
of this is going to tell its own story
so looking at the fringe now we make the
decision with our guests get your input
on it does it look too heavy is it too
long what are the details that we need
to adjust and in this case we've looked
at it and all we feel this happening is
that we love the heavy line that we're
getting but it hangs a little bit like a
brick right there so we're gonna
alleviate a little bit of that way using
our invisablend shear our invisablend
shear is one of our favorite blenders
one out of two and a very soft touch
really good for dry hair and working in
critical areas like crowns fringes face
framing layers or anytime you need to
slide cut using a blending shear this
blade is actually not sharpened it's
just polished so when these two close we
get a little bit of stretch on the ends
almost like a razor so very nice for
doing very small reductions and leaving
very little evidence that you were even
there with it so right here in the front
we'll just give it a light layer just
enough to take some of the heaviness off
the bottom so let's stick to the same
section plan that we were using corner
of the eye corner of the eye and then
bridge of the nose or the center of the
forehead we'll divide that right there
the reason that we've done this is that
the forehead is a round shape you know
it doesn't live like a square so a lot
of times when we pull all of it forward
to cut it we're creating elevation in
over directions towards the sides of
that section so splitting it down the
center line lets us work on this side
and then this side of the center line
which works more to the round shape of
the head so taking that line down the
center and I'm gonna grab this section
I'll get behind her and then I'm going
to elevate it directly above this little
area that it lives in on that side of
the centerline as I elevate up you'll
see my length drop away that lets me
know that my perimeter is secure
nothing's gonna go wrong down there and
then using my invisablend for a small
reduction I'll give this a love tap
maybe two and what that's going to do is
it's not going to remove all of the
length
it's just gonna take away some of that
heaviness we'll drop that down on this
side let's have a look still keeps a
nice heavy line it just takes a little
bit of that weight off the bottom just
perfect let's do the other side right
down the center line and then elevate
without over direction right above the
area that it lives once you see enough
of your length drop out and you know
that your perimeter is good give it a
love tap maybe two and that's going to
leave all of your length but just take
some of that heaviness off the bottom so
here's where we are let's go ahead and
release the rest of the hair bring it
down in the mix she needs a little bit
of polish there on the end so I'm gonna
take one of my favorite products it's
actually a blow dry lotion but if you
use it really sparingly it becomes
almost like a heavy serum so when I have
clients that have hair that's prone to
frizziness or is a little bit heavy just
a drop will do to deal with a certain
area it gives me what I like to call the
Velvet Touch you know just for smoothing
down that final top layer calming down
any little flyaways that might be in the
mix there really want to see the polish
on this get that Parisian chic as we're
seeing on Google all the time these days
you know sometimes we treat the fringe
like it's some kind of bizarre animal
that requires special handling it's just
hair it has a perimeter it has the
ability to be layered just like any
other part of the head so if you're
feeling a little bit fearful about it
work meticulously use your guides take
small sections it's okay to take the
fringe all at once and blast it off if
that's what you like to do we get great
results doing that all the time but
every now and then you might want to
break it into its individual bite-sized
pieces in a way that's easy to
understand and more importantly easy to
reproduce when she comes back and says I
love it do it again
well we hope you found this information
interesting if not useful in your world
of hair
we're on social wear at the shows we're
in your salons look for us I'm Jesse
with the Sam VR team
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