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Beginner's Guide: How To Paint A Car At Home In 4 Easy Steps - Eastwood



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if you want results like this from a

driveway paint job stay tuned

mark here Rd manager with the Eastwood

company the video you're about to see is

how to paint your car in four easy steps

we're gonna be using the Corvair door

you see behind me but these techniques

that you're gonna see will apply to the

entire car also let's get started okay

this particular door

we have stripped down to bare metal I

actually fabricated the door scandal on

this one but what you want to do is

either use abrasive blasting chemical

strippers or actually paper and a DA to

get down to the bare metal it's the best

place to start

now that we have it stripped down we're

gonna use our free to remove any grease

wax oils any contaminants on the surface

you want to do this before you do any

further sanding or filler because you

don't want to bury those into the metal

what you see here is we're taping off

the vent window this was installed in

the door just to make it a lot easier

than trying to do this with fresh paint

on it what we do want to do is protect

the nice new seals that we bought so

we're gonna mask those carefully at the

door edge as you can see we're using a

stir stick here to make sure that the

tape gets between the actual seal and

the metal of the door itself so we don't

have a line later now we're gonna go

ahead and mask off with paper tip here

is don't use Christmas wrapping paper or

newspaper the solids gonna bleed right

through that use masking paper design

for automotive paints what I'm doing now

is applying guide coat this is used to

identify any of your highs and lows on

the panel its stealth stuff that your

eye may miss I'm applying the guide coat

and an even film across the entire panel

now I'm gonna block that with the 80

grit and the long block a tip here is to

use the longest board that you can

that'll fit the panel I'm gonna block

this in a crosshatch pattern what this

does is this assures that you're

maintaining a level surface and we're

gonna use this same technique through

the entire process here even all the way

up to our color sanding

as you can see from the horizontal lines

we've identified the lows from when we

use the English wheel to make this panel

what we're gonna do now is skim coat the

entire door knowing that we're gonna

remove about 80% of the product but what

this does is assures us that we have

even coverage now I'm going to wipe the

panel again with pre I want to make sure

that we remove any type of grease

contaminants as I said earlier you don't

want to bury these into the base metal

and then have them come back at you

later now I'm mixing up our filler mix

as per the instructions but two tips

here need the hardener these things

settle out and end up dumping a lot of

liquid onto your fresh filler and second

don't mix on cardboard the hardener

itself will actually be absorbed into

the fibers they're Mixel and dedicated

paper or plastic mixing board

now I applied the skim coat the entire

panel as you see and then we're gonna

give it it's about 15 minutes here to

harden now I'm hitting it with the 80

grit in the long board we're using the

18 inch board again in the 80 grit paper

and what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna sand

from the style line to an edge I'm not

gonna just sand couple inches in the

center and just randomly move about the

panel you have to think about as one

fluid motion you want to be standing

complete edge to edge line to line or

body seam wherever you have a cut off

again in the crosshatch pattern this

will assure us our dead level flat

surface

so we just finished the first round of

block sanding and it's coming out pretty

good I want to hit it one more time to

better identify any of the highs and the

lows I'm applying our guide code again

this time we're using it not only to

identify the low spots but also to make

sure that we're removing each of our

previous grit sanding marks which you'll

see in a minute here I'm sanding the

panel again in our crosshatch pattern

using the 18 inch block and the 80 grand

what you want to do is progressively

move up through your grits starting with

80 to 120 180 220 all the way up to 320

don't skip a step

you're gonna think you're saving time

right now what's gonna happen is when

you get into base coat you're gonna see

those deep scratches you need to

progressively move up through the grits

using the guide coat to assure that

you've removed the previous grit sanding

scratches this will assure a dead level

and flat surface

now what we've done is we've identified

a couple lows that are gonna need a

quick little skim coat of filler so I'll

mix that up and just hit those areas

don't worry about the bear spots and the

cut through that you see here we're

gonna take care of all that with epoxy

primer in the next step it's always a

good idea to remove any dust and debris

using the tack cloth before applying any

coatings I'll go ahead apply the guide

coat and continue with the 120 on up

through the grits to 320

here you can really see the importance

of guide coat in identifying remaining

80 grit sanding scratches I still have

to remove along with any other

imperfections you can even see the

difference in identifying the 80 and 120

grit scratches using the guy coat

with the final block sanding of the

filler completed we're ready to prep the

paddle for epoxy primary after I did the

final wipe down with pre and a tack rag

I began mixing the epoxy paint or epoxy

paint is a 1 to 1 ratio

easy to mix and very easy to apply even

for a beginner and remember you're gonna

be blocking most of this down anyhow so

you don't have to worry about a little

nip here or a run

now that we have the epoxy mixed up

we're gonna go ahead and filter that

into the gun with the lid one you're

gonna have a vent on the top of your

gravity feed guns here take that remove

it and you'll see a small opening in

there point that orifice towards you you

don't want to take the chance of having

any paint drip out of the vent won't to

the surface itself before you spray the

panel go ahead and test your fan pattern

on a piece of masking paper I've

adjusted the gun to about a 10 inch fan

pattern here here's a tip moving forward

what you want to do is spray all your

jams and edges first then your main

section if you do it opposite this

you'll end up with overspray on the door

skin I'm using a large fan pattern here

for for a couple different reasons as

you see we're spraying outside just as

you're gonna be doing on your driveway

what you want to do is you want to get

the product on and get out we're using

the epoxy primer here because there's

excellent heejun to both the bare metal

and the body filler I'm coming across

the panel with a tack coat and then

ninety degrees from that with a full wet

coat to assure proper coverage

[Music]

going ahead and applying to full wet

coats first hitting the edges and jams

and then the main door skin as you can

see we're spraying outside

not everybody has a booth or access to a

booth but don't worry don't be afraid

with the right products and the right

tools you're gonna end up with great

results and don't be worried if you have

a little bit of trash or a bug lands in

we'll show you how to take care of that

well there you go

we had a bird land on the door anyhow

you walked around a little area but good

thing you had little feet and those

things will level out we'll be able to

fill it with the surfacer now we're back

to the 18-inch board and we're using 320

we're gonna go ahead and block out this

entire surface again using our

crosshatch and going from bodyline

to edge of panel remember you want to

use the largest board that will fit your

panel to assure an even and level

surface

the tip here is to use an abrasive pad

instead of your paper around these

irregular surfaces it tends to conform

to them more easily okay here we are

with our final wipe and tack a tip here

again always wear rubber gloves you're

gonna have on your hands you don't want

to get that into your primer another tip

here when using your lint-free cloth is

always flip to a clean surface what you

don't want to do is just move

contaminants from one edge of the paddle

to the other then go ahead and do your

final tack in preparation for our

urethane surface

now we're gonna go ahead and apply the

urethane primer surfacer mix per the

instructions strain and fill the gun

here's a little tip when spraying

outside do your final tack rag just

seconds before you're about to apply the

paint this assures you have the cleanest

surface possible

I'm holding the gun about 10 inches from

the surface and using a 50% overlap an

important tip here is to maintain a

consistent gun to paddle distance to

avoid any heavy spots or light spray

once the urethane surface is completely

cured we're gonna go ahead and begin our

block sanding process again apply the

guide coat and here we're starting with

a 320 grit on our 18-inch board using

the crosshatch pattern continue up to

600 grit

now I'm switching over to wet sanding

the reason for that is the water tends

to keep the paper clean you get a little

bit better cut and a much much finer cut

so we'll continue with that up to the

600 grit again not skipping any grits in

between

here I'm using a lint-free rag to get

the majority of the dust off the panel

most important step here is using your

compressed air and you want to blow out

any of the holes crevices or seams where

dust and water may be trapped you want

to get them out now before the paint gun

finds them so that's why we're using at

least fifty to sixty psi so that we're

above the pressure of what your guns

gonna be using the Eastwood mixing cups

the mixed our base coats the appropriate

ratio went ahead strained and filled the

cup here I'm doing my final tack rag

seconds before applying paint again

spray your jams and edges first then

come across with a 50 percent overlap go

ahead and spray two to three full wet

coats

you

you'll notice I'm applying additional

coats ninety-degree to the first coat

what this does this helps me achieve a

more level surface and eliminate any

Tiger striping especially when spraying

metallics

I'm spraying our eastwood ProStreet red

here using the same 50% overlap and

consistent gun to panel distance as you

can see I'm using the same gun for our

epoxy primer our urethane base coat and

also for the clear the only thing we're

doing is changing out the needle nozzle

size

after our base coat has completely cured

we're gonna begin the wet sanding

process as you can see we're standing a

kiddie pool but trust me this will save

you a lot of time and headache and

cleanup especially on a driveway or

garage floor so we're starting with 600

wet go ahead and continue in that

crosshatch pattern that we've been using

at this point I've switched at a 6-inch

block while we're wet sanding we're no

longer shaping the paddle so it's okay

to use the smaller block which is more

controllable

I'm simply cutting off the tops of the

nibs hitting any dirt or debris that may

have landed in the coating here's a tip

if you find during the color sanding

process that you cut through your color

back into your primer simply take a

paper matchstick or a corner of a paper

towel and touch it up with some base

coat

with our urethane clear accurately mixed

strained and poured into the cup it's

time to spray seconds before spraying

do your final tack rag go ahead and

apply two to three full wet coats just

as you did base with your edges first

then your main panel we're spraying our

two-to-one european clear which is a

very user friendly clear we have three

different temperature activators simply

match them up to the temperature of the

day you'll be spraying and you'll

achieve excellent results with beautiful

flow out we're spraying to clear 45

minutes after the base coat had cured

and we finished our block sanding if you

had to stop at this point for a day or

two you're gonna need to sand the

surface and go ahead through your pre

cleaning prep just as we did prior to

spraying base coat after 48 hours of

allowing our clear to cure it was time

to wet sand it so back into the pool

started with a thousand grit again our

crosshatch pattern and then moved up to

1,500 and 2,000

I'm using my wiper in-between grits here

to not only clean the surface but I'm

also checking to look for color when

you're sanding clear it's gonna be a

milky clear color if you find red on

your wiper that means you cut through

your clear which is no big deal

finish out your block sanding and apply

two more coats of clear

[Music]

once we're done with the wet sanding

process it's time to move on to the

buffing so go ahead and use a

high-quality system to achieve that

showroom shine I chose the Norton system

which is a three pad system for three

easy steps

just remember to saturate the pads and

use minimal pressure on the panel I'm

starting with the wool pad which will

remove our 2,000 grit sanding scratches

I'll then follow that up with the two

foam pads to achieve professional

results

as you progress through each of the pads

you'll notice the depth of image and the

clarity will become more pronounced

now switch to the blue pad which will

remove any of the swirl marks from our

wool pad and you can clearly see the

depth of image becoming more brilliant

lastly I'll finish with the white pad

which will give you that brilliant

finish you've been after

[Music]

you can see the results we achieved the

reflection the clarity and all this done

outside you can see the Eastwood logo

clearly in the paint can and even read

the serial number of this hundred dollar

bill

as you can see we finished the door and

we're more than happy with the results

you can see by the dollar bill in there

and reflection in the gallon can the

depth of image is pretty spectacular

especially for painting this outside so

I hope this gives you the confidence to

tackle a paint job at home even if

you're outside you can see the results

that we achieved it's no different doing

this door then it would be a complete

car

it's just panel at a time that's the way

you think about it so for detailed

instruction list and all the tools

required to complete this job at home go

ahead and visit eastwood.com