This video will show you how to coat your AR-15 lower receiver
or other gun parts with Brownells Aluma-Hyde II aerosol.
Here are the tools and materials you will need. Your lower receiver or other gun parts
that have been cleaned and dried.
A quarter inch bolt to install into the lower receiver's pistol grip hole.
It should be 28 thread pitch and about four inches long to provide a good
handle for turning the lower receiver.
Brownells TCE cleaner/degreaser which will remove any remaining oils from the part before spraying.
Brownells Aluma-Hyde II in whatever color you have chosen.
Disposable gloves to keep your non-spraying hand from getting coated with Aluma-Hyde II.
Optionally you can use a heat gun or hair dryer to speed up the time between coats.
If you intend to oven cure you will need an oven preheated to 300 degrees Fahrenheit.
Put one rack to the top position and remove all others if you plan to hang the parts.
Test the fit of your parts prior to heating the oven and starting work.
You will also need a way to hang the part in the oven and I'm using a binder clip for that purpose.
I'll also use a piece of aluminum foil as a heat shield in the oven between the
parts and the heating element.
The first thing we will do is figure out a way to hold and turn the part without
touching the surfaces that will be coated.
In the case of this AR-15 lower receiver the quarter inch bolt will do the trick.
The next step is to make sure everything is ready before we start.
This means preheating the oven, plugging in the heat gun or hair dryer,
making sure the can of Aluma-Hyde II is thoroughly shaken up
and that both the TCE and Aluma-Hyde II cans have their tops removed.
Note: if it is cold outside keep all of your parts and aerosol products
inside until you are ready to spray so they stay warm
and then bring them back inside to rewarm between coats.
Now go outside in a well-ventilated area and spray the part was TCE.
The TCE is very volatile and will
flash off fairly quickly but you can speed the process by use of a heat gun.
Here you can see a makeshift holder for this circular part that is just some pieces
of masking tape used as a handle. Once you are sure the part is dry and free of TCE
you can spray the first coat of Aluma-Hyde II. Even though I shook the can up the
first spray that came out was clear liquid and not the matte black.
This is why it is a good idea to test spray away from your part.
It's also a good idea to purchase extra fan pattern spray nozzles from Brownells
as these can become clogged which did happen while I was spraying this receiver.
The part number is 084-179-005.
Keep the spray nozzle about a foot from the receiver when spraying.
Start with the tougher areas to reach such as the fire control group pocket,
receiver threading, under receiver trigger area and the front of the receiver.
The sides of the receiver are the easiest to coat so save them for last.
Do not spray too heavily as we will be making four light coats in total.
After the initial coat allow the receiver a few
minutes to flash off. You can use the heat gun or hair dryer to gently warm
the surfaces to help speed the process
but don't go too hot or too close to the receiver. After the surface has flashed
repeat the process again for a second light coat.
Start with the same nooks and crannies before finishing with the two sides.
I have found Aluma-Hyde II is fairly forgiving when it comes to runs
so don't try to wipe receiver if you get one. Just let it dry slowly without heat
and it should fade away.
Subsequent coats will help cover any minor variations.
Repeat the process a third and fourth time as needed.
The final coats will be giving the surface it's finished look and you may not
even need to spray the unseen areas such as the magwell
and fire control group pocket. Focus on a smooth
spray for the final coat as the receiver should already be fully covered by now.
Allow the final coat to flash naturally without the use of a heat gun or hair dryer.
Pull the nozzle from the spray can and soak it in some acetone to
clean it out. Otherwise it can clog up.
Finally we are ready to bake the receiver for one hour at 300 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fair warning, this will smell up the house for a few hours.
Not terrible but it won't smell like fresh baked cookies either.
Being very careful not to let the receiver touch anything,
especially in the oven, clip the quarter inch bolt to the top rack.
Make very sure the clip is secure so the receiver doesn't fall.
I also use a piece of aluminum foil to act as a heat shield between the heating
element and the receiver.
I want the receiver to cure from the heat of the oven not from the more
direct and extreme heat of the element.
For the small circular part I have improvised a piece of aluminum
foil as a twist tie. Gently close the oven door and set the timer for one hour.
After the hour is up shut the oven off but leave the parts in the oven for another
hour so the heat comes down gently.
After that hour is up I carefully open the oven door and
allow it to sit another half hour with the door open before removing the parts.
That's it. Here you can see some spotting in the coating of this cast aluminum
receiver due to the clogged nozzle but the surface itself is flat.
After curing I spray the receiver with oil which will darken and lubricate it.
Wipe off the excess with paper towels and you're ready for assembly with your parts kit.
Thanks for watching and be sure to visit the 80percents.com web site for more tips,
reviews of 80% lower brands and to join our 80% lower builder forum.