How to Prime a Car with 2 Pack Primer

Sharing buttons:

welcome to this episode of the gun man

in this video I'll be taking you through

how to remove deep scratches and priming

to pack primer so first off you've got

to make sure that there's no dents there

by rubbing your hand over with a flat

palm make sure there's no low spots

there so start off using 180 grit on the

orbital sander and just make sure you

hold the diner braids and a flat what

I'm doing now see how I just held it up

on the angle I'm actually showing you

what not to do so that ends up if you go

from full paint right through your

primer straight down to the middle in

such a small area there's gonna end up

being a dip that goes low to highest so

what you've got to do is hold this down

a dead flat and then have it feather out

gradually right you should see there so

I done so as not to say any low spots so

once I'm happy I've got it 180 and got

rid of the actual scratch itself I'll

come back over and grab some 320 grit

and some red scotch brite if you're the

prime straight over 180 sometimes you

can end up getting some shrink back

marks it will end up after you bake it

sink back in the problem will sink back

into those deeper scratches and you can

actually end up seeing the pigtails that

the orbital sander lays behind so going

back over all of that weighs 320 make

sure you get rid of all those 180

scratches and I'm just gonna also take

it out just a touch further so that any

of the overspray is gonna land on it

it's going to stick so we'll then go

over it with the red scotch brite pad

you can use green instead just any

coarse scotch brite pad gray is probably

a little bit too fine you more use life

for paint work and prep and paint work

so this video is dedicated just to the

prime work I've got some footage I be

editing up soon of the prep work and the

paint work on this same car so once

we've got it 320 in and Scotch it up and

blow all the dust off just

double-checking here that I'm happy that

there's no low spots there run back over

grab the

asking machine and then be stuck getting

bits of paper pulling them up and

whacking them around the repair what you

can see I'm doing here is actually

leaving it just off that edge it's a

touch lower than where it needs to be so

what I'll do or they can get some trait

quarter-inch tape end up flipping the

lead edge over so it's not a hard edge

anymore it's actually a soft edge so we

called the false edge so you just flip

it over run it across your name and drag

the piece of tape out and it ends up

flipping that edge over on the whole

whole piece of tape that you need to use

put that right across on the line you

won't get a big hard edge this is

another way of doing it too you can put

the bit of paper on backwards then flip

it over and you'll end up having as you

can see here a bit of a flat so the

paint's not gonna end up going hard edge

up against there I think so you're still

leaving plenty of room so here we go up

on the paint bench and we'll mix it up

paint up most prime is mixed up at a

four to one ratio some of the five to

one you do get three two ones and always

just read your label make sure you know

the products that you're using so you go

up to the the bottom of the little

pyramid with your primer and then up to

the next line and we do a hardener and

if you wanted to add 10% Medusa you

could go up to the next line on the

pyramid on the top of the pyramid so I

like to use fast hardener when I'm

priming depending on the temperature and

the panels that you're doing if you're

doing a respray or something like that

you'd probably want to slow it down a

little bit especially if it's in the hot

weather starting to cool down where I am

so want to get the nice and far side

neuron to it make sure you always stare

it up really well also always use a

paints drain and when you're priming

because sometimes you end up getting

lumps in there even though you've

stirred it up you can think sometimes

get little bits of lumps and think that

can end up coming out here gun and the

little lump obviously isn't gonna have

hardener in it so it's not going to dry


getting picked out when you are when you

see on the car down and you'll have to

put a bit of line filler into that hole

so no one really wants that and I'm

using a Tim L tip on my primer gun this

program is pretty inexpensive I just

found it on eBay for about fifty dollars

that's all you need not the best variety

but it still gets a primer on quite well

so I'm only using about 20 psi you can

use quite low pressure when you're

priming there's no need to get it you're

not looking for the super finish that

you want once you've painted it first

coat you don't want on too heavy just

just to seal it help seal it down on

that first coat off then let that flash

up I can start putting my second coat

nice and wet so as you can see now we've

got our first two coats of primer on

it's very important that in between

coats of primer you let it flash off

correctly you can see now that there's

no gloss left on that it's um it's

flashed right off

I get apprentices it's quite common they

say I say how many coats did you put on

that they say I put four coats on it and

I just block straight through there's

not enough primer on that what they do

they put their first coat on come back

after one minute put another coat on and

basically what it does is that second

coat melts into the first coat so the

way it works is you put your first coat

on it dries off and then the next coat

sits up on top of that coat to give you

the build so as you can see it's ready

to go and we'll just put our last coat

on this is not a big filler repair it

was just a few scratches that I sanded

out so I've decided to put three coats

on it if it was a big bog repair or it

had body filler in there you'd want to

put an extra coat on there because

you're going to want to block it down

but with this I'm just gonna use the

diner braid or the orbital sander and

just just sand it down once it's dried


so here we go for our next co 2 promo

then you say get it on nice and wet and

that should seal down those rub throughs

that I had from when I see em at those

scratches out who leave that overnight

you could alternately put the infrared

drying lights on it for approximately

half an out of 40 minutes and then that

would be right to start rubbing down so

this is your car once it's all finished

off as you can see there's no shrink

back looks quite nice I've also got some

footage of the car once it's when I'm

doing the prep work and paint work on

this so I'll be editing that and keep an

eye out for that there's a couple of

links to a couple my other vids here

subscribe to keep up to date with all my

latest work thanks again for watching

it's been another gum and production