Neil from Messick's here with
a Kubota BX25 Sub-Compact Tractor.
We're going to walk around here and do a layout on what
the basic controls are on this machine,
give you an idea of how to operate a machine like this.
The concepts that we're going to cover here are going to
apply to most Kubota products specifically those in the BX series. Today that would be the BX25, BX1870, 2370, and 2670.
specifically those in the BX series.
Today that would be the BX25, BX1870, 2370, and 2670.
Take a quick walk around here with me,
see if we can teach you a couple of things today.
All the tractors in the BX series are diesel.
If you're not familiar with a diesel tractor before,
the one biggest difference is where a gas engine
would have a chock, diesel engines have glow plugs.
On a warm day like today it's not really necessary
to use the glow plugs on a diesel engine but in a day
when you get below about 40 degrees or so,
giving a couple seconds to heat the core
of the engine using the glow plug
is a good way to make the engine start easier.
On the left-hand side of the machine is a brake
and when you press the brake pedal down
and turn the key forward, the tractor will start.
The very first position here on the key switch
is a run position, as you go a notch further you'll hit
the glow plug and you'll see here I light an orange light up
here on the dash and the glow plug is engaged.
When you're heating a glow plug typically you want to
heat it in about 10 or 15-second intervals,
heat for about 10 or 15 seconds and then start the engine.
If it doesn't want to go,
heat it for another 10 or 15 seconds
and then start the engine again.
You don't want to let the glow plug run for minutes
at a time as it's a heating element,
if it gets really really hot,
it can shorten the life of the glow plugs
and eventually they would have to be replaced.
When it comes to your glow plugs,
short intervals between trying to
start the engine in order to get the thing going.
Once the tractor is running,
you have a throttle right up here on the dash.
These will idle around 12 to 1,400 rpms
and be wide open around 32 to 3,500 rpms.
A lot of people when they're running the tractor like this
they like to run at lower revs just
to not use as much fuel and keep the noise
of the engine down a little bit, that is fine.
Do remember as you add more revs to the engine
you're going to have more hydraulic flow
and more hydraulic pressure.
Most things on this tractor are operated hydraulically,
so you don't have a whole lot of power at idle.
But once you get up to about 50% and higher
you start to pick up enough flow and pressure that it
becomes very operable at that point.
On a hydrostatic tractor, you'll have a pedal down here
in the floor for forward and reverse
and also a gear selector over here on the side
for your operating range.
The BX series tractors have two operating ranges,
either a turtle for low or rabbit for high.
The turtle is generally about zero to four miles an hour,
the high range is about zero to eight miles an hour.
Generally, in the lower range we recommend using that
for loader work and pulling and tugging
and that kind of stuff, tractor work.
The high range is generally used
for transport mowing chores.
As you push down the pedal here to go forward
if you think of this like a gear selector,
the harder you press this pedal down,
the higher gear you're in.
If you need to pull hard,
you pull hard in a hydrostatic tractor
by pushing gently on the pedal.
As a guy, when I want to go hard,
I push hard and that effectively
puts you in a higher gear and gives you less pulling power.
If you have a heavy load behind you
or you're trying to push your loader into
a compacted pile of dirt,
pressing gently on the pedal will give you more
forward push than mashing it the whole way to the floor.
Being that this isn't mechanically operated
hydrostatic you do get a little bit of feedback
from the transmission about how hard
the tractor is working.
When you push the pedal forward,
you can feel the transmission
pushing back at you a little bit
and when you start to over exceed what
the transmission can provide, you'll start to feel
almost it can describe it as the bottom
dropping out of the pedal and what you're feeling
is the transmission going in to relief.
When you've pushed as hard as what
the transmission can push,
there's a safety mechanism in the back
of the transmission that will allow that
hydraulic pressure to relief out
and you could feel that in the pedal.
You get a good mechanical feedback
from this treadle pedal by going back and forth
and just keeping in mind
that the harder you press this pedal down,
the higher gear you're in.
Your two orange levers over here on the side
take care of the movement of the tractor.
Here's your range selector that we just talked about
with turtle or rabbit
and a neutral position here in the middle
or your four-wheel drive which is right up here in the top.
These are international tractor symbols
that you'll find on any machine.
The disengaged broken version here in the middle shows
that the four-wheel drive driveline is disengaged.
This forward position is the engaged position.
To and forward make a heck of a lot more sense
but Kubota uses the international tractor symbols
that you'll find on any machine and so
you'll see those same symbols on any tractor.
Both of these orange levers here are straight cut gears,
so when you're pulling on one of these you see right now
it doesn't -- there it goes, see if I can get one stuck.
No, they're not sticking right now.
If you're tugging on one of these levers
and they're not wanting to drop in,
it's because they're straight cut gears
and what that means is the teeth of the gears
are bumping into each other
and they're not wanting to slide forward.
If this is happening and you're tugging at these levers
and they're not dropping in place,
all you need to do is tap on the tractors
drive pedal a little bit and roll the tractor
forward just a little bit to get the gear set to rotate
a bit so that the teeth will want to drop together.
Generally, that happens most often
with the range selector if you're sitting on a hillside
or something and the transmissions loaded up.
Just gently tugging on that lever while you bump
the transmission drive pedal forward
will cause that to hop right into place.
You'll find that on any tractor on any transmission
where straight cut gears are involved
without synchronizers and the things that
we get up in big utility tractors.
The next lever on this panel over here
is the quarter inching valve for the 3-Point hitch.
This has two positions in it either
a small inching position if you just
need to make a small adjustment to the hitch
you just tap it forward or tap it backwards
and it will move up or down very slowly
or you can go to the extremities which will move
your attachments very quickly.
Most of the attachments that go on small tractors
like this are usually operating a full up
or full down position so generally,
you're just throwing the lever to one side or the other.
Down here between your legs is also a dial.
You'll find this on every tractor with a 3-Point hitch,
3-Point hitches only have a lifting force up,
they don't have downforce down.
Because of that, a 200-pound implement drops
a lot slower than a thousand-pound implement would.
This valve right here changes how much restriction
the 3-Point hitch has when lowering itself.
If you have this thing dialed the whole way closed
and you push your 3-Point hitch control lever down
and the 3-Point doesn't move,
it's because you don't have enough weight on there
to displace the fluid and allow the 3-Point hitch to drop.
In which case, all you need to do is reach down here
and open that valve up a little bit
and then move your control down.
Likewise, if you have a big heavy implement on there
and you tap your 3-Point lever down
and that implement drops like a rock
so quickly that it's uncontrollable,
closing that valve off a little bit
will give you a nice smooth downward motion.
This tractor is not equipped with a mower deck
but if it was this dial right here
is what you would use to set the height of your mower deck.
Since there's no deck here, I can't turn the dial
but you'll see that there's a little height indicator
right here at the back and a one through four
and top position right here.
In order to change the dial when the deck is installed,
you first need to lift the mower deck up
and off of the mower deck stops.
Then you turn this dial to the cutting position that
you want and lower your deck back down again.
If you want to have it in a transport position in order to
do some work while the mower deck
is installed underneath the tractor,
you can lift the deck up, turn this dial to top
and it'll lock the deck up as high as possible.
One really nice thing on these Kubota tractors
is that Kubota does a great job of getting that
mower deck clear up against the bottom of the tractor.
You'll notice that these machines had
industry-leading height underneath
the mower decks allowing you to work without
having to pull the deck on and off all the time.
It's a really nice feature and really easy
to adjust up here from the seat.
Back here at my heel
is the lever for the differential lock.
These tractors are four-wheel drive but if you get them
hung up in the mud and you get that situation
where one wheel is spinning
and the other wheel is sitting still,
you simply step down on this diff lock
to lock the differential.
If you're not aware of how a differential works,
typically on your two rear tires
when you're in situations that you're turning
and one needs to spin faster than the other,
the differential allows those wheels
to turn at different rates.
That becomes problematic in the mud because
one wheel will sit still and the other wheel will spin.
When you step on that diff pedal,
you first want to stop the wheels from spinning,
step on the diff pedal, and then go back
to the forward motion again.
The reason why you want to do that
is because when you step on that pedal,
it's sliding a pin into the differential.
You don't want to slide that pin in while the diffs
are sitting there and spinning
because you could shear the pin off.
It's important to stop the wheels from turning,
step on the pedal, and then go back to forward again.
If you come down here to the right-hand side
or left-hand side rather
or by engagement levers from my PTO,
so I have a middle position that will operate both PTOs,
a forward position to operate the rear at 540 rpms
or a rear position over here to operate
just the mid-mount mower.
Typically you're in either the forward or rear position
but the time that you want to operate both PTOs
is typically if you're using a powered bagger
where the bagger has a fan that runs off the rear PTO
and then you need to have your mower deck on as well.
Once you've selected which PTO you want,
you move this hydraulic lever
forward in order to engage the PTO.
The nice thing about the way that these levers work
is there's a little bit of cushion in here
so as you bring this lever forward
you can bring your implements up to speed a little bit
more softly than just snapping them in with a button.
That's really nice, easy to use, push it forward, off it goes.
Kubota has gone through several iterations of dashes
in these tractors and this last one here
appears to be the best of them.
They've done a lot here to try to seal water out.
You can see a lot more gasketing and stuff
around the edges here at the dash.
There’s also some new indicators on here as well.
As tractors have gone by, we’ve flipflopped back and forth
on what things we’ve shown on the dash.
But in this current tractor,
we have a nice analog gauge for the tachometer.
Our meter down here in the bottom,
temp gauges and fuel gauges all digitally
shown giving you the amounts and not just lights,
which is really nice.
There are also has some indicator lights on
here as well for things like oil pressure,
battery voltage, your glow plug indicator
that we were pointing out here before, headlights,
turn signals, four ways so that you can see what’s going on.
You can also see that the indicators are backlit
as well so if you’re out there operating in the night
in the dark, you can see exactly what’s on your dash.
Right down here below is the multifunction switch
to operate all those lights.
The yellow lever right here will do our turn signals.
The switch here will do our four ways
or the lower switch will do the headlights.
With this tractor with the four ways turned on
and an orange triangle on the back,
you can drive down the road for short distances
like a piece of farm equipment.
Make sure to check what your local regulations are here
because there are a lot of limitations on exactly
where you can go to be doing that safely.
Make sure to check what your local ordinances
are before you just take off down the road.
There’s also a little latch lever on here
for a cruise control.
I’m not a big fan of cruise controls myself
but you pull this lever up to latch
your hydrostatic pedal in place.
If you’re going to go out and mow, say,
several acres at a time and you want to be able to
take your foot off the pedal,
it is nice and can relieve you from having to hold that
thing down for a long periods of time.
The loader stick is right up here on the top of the tractor.
We covered in a loader video that will be linked here
at the end of this YouTube video.
I’m showing exactly how the loader works,
and there’s a lot of detail on the different positions
on this loader valve.
If you have questions about that,
make sure to hop over to the loader video
here at the end of the clip.
Periodic maintenance on the tractor like
this is really important as well.
When we look at tractors for trade-ins,
it’s very evident to people who care for the tractor
and check on things and those who don’t.
It’s a good idea every time you run one of these machines
to take a look at both your radiator screen
and your air filters.
When you’re working in dusty dirty conditions
or grassy conditions,
a lot of times these things can plug up.
Right here on the inside is a simple pre-screen
for the radiator that you can pull out and shake off any
dirt or anything that happens to make its way through.
This radiator actually pulls this direction.
Most of the time, the worst messes are kept up
by your legs around the radiator
but this one will actually catch some further debris
before you get to the radiator core itself.
The air filter is right here.
There’s a little nutty on the bottom at the air filter cap
that you can squeeze down here in order to let
big debris just simply drop out of the canister.
That’s something that’s easy to do.
You need to go the step further,
the lid right there pops off and it’s easy
to pull out the air cleaner itself
if you need to clean off grass or debris.
If the engine never starts to smoke or lacks power,
most of the time it’s because that air cleaner
has been plugged up because somebody
hasn’t been keeping after it.
The dipsticks and the coolants are also right
here at the top as well.
Right here is the coolant.
If you’re standing where I am,
you can see the level right down there at the bottom.
The dipstick for the engine is right here at the top.
We’ve been running this machine but if you check it
before you start, you can easily
see where the indicator is right there.
If you need to top it off,
everything is right here at the top.
Kubota does a nice job at designing these engines
and laying things out so that you don’t need to pull side
covers all for cowlings or tear the engine apart
to really get down to where the guts of the engine
are to check your periodic maintenance items.
If you have a loader or a mower deck on your tractor,
it’s generally recommended
about every 10 hours of operation,
you run around with a grease gun
and hit all the grease zerks.
That’s important on the mower deck spindles
because a lot of heat is generated from those things
spinning very quickly, and on your loader where all
of your pivot pins are at.
All those pivot pins with the stresses
that are put on the loader will wear over time
if they’re not greased.
You can look at a tractor with a thousand 1,500 hours on it
where somebody didn’t grease the pins
and grab that loader and shake it back and forth
because the pins hadn’t been greased.
Keeping it simple, a $20-grease gun
around with a tube of grease that
every couple of months or every 10, 15, 20 hours or so,
10 hours is recommended, run around
with that grease gun and hit all the grease zerks on here.
That extra two or three minutes that you take
before operating the tractor
will really ensure that this thing serves
you for decades to come.
That’s the operation of the Kubota BX series tractor.
We’ve done a whole series of videos on this series
of tractors because they are so popular for us.
We here at Messick's sell a little just
about 200 of these things a year.
To see the operation of the backhoe, click right up here.
To see the operation and function of the loader,
click up over here
and see the selling features of this tractor,
right down over here.
Give us a call at Messick’s. Let us know if we can help.
We’re available at messicks.com
or at 800-222-3373. Thanks.