Kubota BX25 Operation Overview | Messick's

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Neil from Messick's here with

a Kubota BX25 Sub-Compact Tractor.

We're going to walk around here and do a layout on what

the basic controls are on this machine,

give you an idea of how to operate a machine like this.

The concepts that we're going to cover here are going to

apply to most Kubota products specifically those in the BX series. Today that would be the BX25, BX1870, 2370, and 2670.

specifically those in the BX series.

Today that would be the BX25, BX1870, 2370, and 2670.

Take a quick walk around here with me,

see if we can teach you a couple of things today.

All the tractors in the BX series are diesel.

If you're not familiar with a diesel tractor before,

the one biggest difference is where a gas engine

would have a chock, diesel engines have glow plugs.

On a warm day like today it's not really necessary

to use the glow plugs on a diesel engine but in a day

when you get below about 40 degrees or so,

giving a couple seconds to heat the core

of the engine using the glow plug

is a good way to make the engine start easier.

On the left-hand side of the machine is a brake

and when you press the brake pedal down

and turn the key forward, the tractor will start.

The very first position here on the key switch

is a run position, as you go a notch further you'll hit

the glow plug and you'll see here I light an orange light up

here on the dash and the glow plug is engaged.

When you're heating a glow plug typically you want to

heat it in about 10 or 15-second intervals,

heat for about 10 or 15 seconds and then start the engine.

If it doesn't want to go,

heat it for another 10 or 15 seconds

and then start the engine again.

You don't want to let the glow plug run for minutes

at a time as it's a heating element,

if it gets really really hot,

it can shorten the life of the glow plugs

and eventually they would have to be replaced.

When it comes to your glow plugs,

short intervals between trying to

start the engine in order to get the thing going.

Once the tractor is running,

you have a throttle right up here on the dash.

These will idle around 12 to 1,400 rpms

and be wide open around 32 to 3,500 rpms.

A lot of people when they're running the tractor like this

they like to run at lower revs just

to not use as much fuel and keep the noise

of the engine down a little bit, that is fine.

Do remember as you add more revs to the engine

you're going to have more hydraulic flow

and more hydraulic pressure.

Most things on this tractor are operated hydraulically,

so you don't have a whole lot of power at idle.

But once you get up to about 50% and higher

you start to pick up enough flow and pressure that it

becomes very operable at that point.

On a hydrostatic tractor, you'll have a pedal down here

in the floor for forward and reverse

and also a gear selector over here on the side

for your operating range.

The BX series tractors have two operating ranges,

either a turtle for low or rabbit for high.

The turtle is generally about zero to four miles an hour,

the high range is about zero to eight miles an hour.

Generally, in the lower range we recommend using that

for loader work and pulling and tugging

and that kind of stuff, tractor work.

The high range is generally used

for transport mowing chores.

As you push down the pedal here to go forward

if you think of this like a gear selector,

the harder you press this pedal down,

the higher gear you're in.

If you need to pull hard,

you pull hard in a hydrostatic tractor

by pushing gently on the pedal.

As a guy, when I want to go hard,

I push hard and that effectively

puts you in a higher gear and gives you less pulling power.

If you have a heavy load behind you

or you're trying to push your loader into

a compacted pile of dirt,

pressing gently on the pedal will give you more

forward push than mashing it the whole way to the floor.

Being that this isn't mechanically operated

hydrostatic you do get a little bit of feedback

from the transmission about how hard

the tractor is working.

When you push the pedal forward,

you can feel the transmission

pushing back at you a little bit

and when you start to over exceed what

the transmission can provide, you'll start to feel

almost it can describe it as the bottom

dropping out of the pedal and what you're feeling

is the transmission going in to relief.

When you've pushed as hard as what

the transmission can push,

there's a safety mechanism in the back

of the transmission that will allow that

hydraulic pressure to relief out

and you could feel that in the pedal.

You get a good mechanical feedback

from this treadle pedal by going back and forth

and just keeping in mind

that the harder you press this pedal down,

the higher gear you're in.

Your two orange levers over here on the side

take care of the movement of the tractor.

Here's your range selector that we just talked about

with turtle or rabbit

and a neutral position here in the middle

or your four-wheel drive which is right up here in the top.

These are international tractor symbols

that you'll find on any machine.

The disengaged broken version here in the middle shows

that the four-wheel drive driveline is disengaged.

This forward position is the engaged position.

To and forward make a heck of a lot more sense

but Kubota uses the international tractor symbols

that you'll find on any machine and so

you'll see those same symbols on any tractor.

Both of these orange levers here are straight cut gears,

so when you're pulling on one of these you see right now

it doesn't -- there it goes, see if I can get one stuck.

No, they're not sticking right now.

If you're tugging on one of these levers

and they're not wanting to drop in,

it's because they're straight cut gears

and what that means is the teeth of the gears

are bumping into each other

and they're not wanting to slide forward.

If this is happening and you're tugging at these levers

and they're not dropping in place,

all you need to do is tap on the tractors

drive pedal a little bit and roll the tractor

forward just a little bit to get the gear set to rotate

a bit so that the teeth will want to drop together.

Generally, that happens most often

with the range selector if you're sitting on a hillside

or something and the transmissions loaded up.

Just gently tugging on that lever while you bump

the transmission drive pedal forward

will cause that to hop right into place.

You'll find that on any tractor on any transmission

where straight cut gears are involved

without synchronizers and the things that

we get up in big utility tractors.

The next lever on this panel over here

is the quarter inching valve for the 3-Point hitch.

This has two positions in it either

a small inching position if you just

need to make a small adjustment to the hitch

you just tap it forward or tap it backwards

and it will move up or down very slowly

or you can go to the extremities which will move

your attachments very quickly.

Most of the attachments that go on small tractors

like this are usually operating a full up

or full down position so generally,

you're just throwing the lever to one side or the other.

Down here between your legs is also a dial.

You'll find this on every tractor with a 3-Point hitch,

3-Point hitches only have a lifting force up,

they don't have downforce down.

Because of that, a 200-pound implement drops

a lot slower than a thousand-pound implement would.

This valve right here changes how much restriction

the 3-Point hitch has when lowering itself.

If you have this thing dialed the whole way closed

and you push your 3-Point hitch control lever down

and the 3-Point doesn't move,

it's because you don't have enough weight on there

to displace the fluid and allow the 3-Point hitch to drop.

In which case, all you need to do is reach down here

and open that valve up a little bit

and then move your control down.

Likewise, if you have a big heavy implement on there

and you tap your 3-Point lever down

and that implement drops like a rock

so quickly that it's uncontrollable,

closing that valve off a little bit

will give you a nice smooth downward motion.

This tractor is not equipped with a mower deck

but if it was this dial right here

is what you would use to set the height of your mower deck.

Since there's no deck here, I can't turn the dial

but you'll see that there's a little height indicator

right here at the back and a one through four

and top position right here.

In order to change the dial when the deck is installed,

you first need to lift the mower deck up

and off of the mower deck stops.

Then you turn this dial to the cutting position that

you want and lower your deck back down again.

If you want to have it in a transport position in order to

do some work while the mower deck

is installed underneath the tractor,

you can lift the deck up, turn this dial to top

and it'll lock the deck up as high as possible.

One really nice thing on these Kubota tractors

is that Kubota does a great job of getting that

mower deck clear up against the bottom of the tractor.

You'll notice that these machines had

industry-leading height underneath

the mower decks allowing you to work without

having to pull the deck on and off all the time.

It's a really nice feature and really easy

to adjust up here from the seat.

Back here at my heel

is the lever for the differential lock.

These tractors are four-wheel drive but if you get them

hung up in the mud and you get that situation

where one wheel is spinning

and the other wheel is sitting still,

you simply step down on this diff lock

to lock the differential.

If you're not aware of how a differential works,

typically on your two rear tires

when you're in situations that you're turning

and one needs to spin faster than the other,

the differential allows those wheels

to turn at different rates.

That becomes problematic in the mud because

one wheel will sit still and the other wheel will spin.

When you step on that diff pedal,

you first want to stop the wheels from spinning,

step on the diff pedal, and then go back

to the forward motion again.

The reason why you want to do that

is because when you step on that pedal,

it's sliding a pin into the differential.

You don't want to slide that pin in while the diffs

are sitting there and spinning

because you could shear the pin off.

It's important to stop the wheels from turning,

step on the pedal, and then go back to forward again.

If you come down here to the right-hand side

or left-hand side rather

or by engagement levers from my PTO,

so I have a middle position that will operate both PTOs,

a forward position to operate the rear at 540 rpms

or a rear position over here to operate

just the mid-mount mower.

Typically you're in either the forward or rear position

but the time that you want to operate both PTOs

is typically if you're using a powered bagger

where the bagger has a fan that runs off the rear PTO

and then you need to have your mower deck on as well.

Once you've selected which PTO you want,

you move this hydraulic lever

forward in order to engage the PTO.

The nice thing about the way that these levers work

is there's a little bit of cushion in here

so as you bring this lever forward

you can bring your implements up to speed a little bit

more softly than just snapping them in with a button.

That's really nice, easy to use, push it forward, off it goes.

Kubota has gone through several iterations of dashes

in these tractors and this last one here

appears to be the best of them.

They've done a lot here to try to seal water out.

You can see a lot more gasketing and stuff

around the edges here at the dash.

There’s also some new indicators on here as well.

As tractors have gone by, we’ve flipflopped back and forth

on what things we’ve shown on the dash.

But in this current tractor,

we have a nice analog gauge for the tachometer.

Our meter down here in the bottom,

temp gauges and fuel gauges all digitally

shown giving you the amounts and not just lights,

which is really nice.

There are also has some indicator lights on

here as well for things like oil pressure,

battery voltage, your glow plug indicator

that we were pointing out here before, headlights,

turn signals, four ways so that you can see what’s going on.

You can also see that the indicators are backlit

as well so if you’re out there operating in the night

in the dark, you can see exactly what’s on your dash.

Right down here below is the multifunction switch

to operate all those lights.

The yellow lever right here will do our turn signals.

The switch here will do our four ways

or the lower switch will do the headlights.

With this tractor with the four ways turned on

and an orange triangle on the back,

you can drive down the road for short distances

like a piece of farm equipment.

Make sure to check what your local regulations are here

because there are a lot of limitations on exactly

where you can go to be doing that safely.

Make sure to check what your local ordinances

are before you just take off down the road.

There’s also a little latch lever on here

for a cruise control.

I’m not a big fan of cruise controls myself

but you pull this lever up to latch

your hydrostatic pedal in place.

If you’re going to go out and mow, say,

several acres at a time and you want to be able to

take your foot off the pedal,

it is nice and can relieve you from having to hold that

thing down for a long periods of time.

The loader stick is right up here on the top of the tractor.

We covered in a loader video that will be linked here

at the end of this YouTube video.

I’m showing exactly how the loader works,

and there’s a lot of detail on the different positions

on this loader valve.

If you have questions about that,

make sure to hop over to the loader video

here at the end of the clip.

Periodic maintenance on the tractor like

this is really important as well.

When we look at tractors for trade-ins,

it’s very evident to people who care for the tractor

and check on things and those who don’t.

It’s a good idea every time you run one of these machines

to take a look at both your radiator screen

and your air filters.

When you’re working in dusty dirty conditions

or grassy conditions,

a lot of times these things can plug up.

Right here on the inside is a simple pre-screen

for the radiator that you can pull out and shake off any

dirt or anything that happens to make its way through.

This radiator actually pulls this direction.

Most of the time, the worst messes are kept up

by your legs around the radiator

but this one will actually catch some further debris

before you get to the radiator core itself.

The air filter is right here.

There’s a little nutty on the bottom at the air filter cap

that you can squeeze down here in order to let

big debris just simply drop out of the canister.

That’s something that’s easy to do.

You need to go the step further,

the lid right there pops off and it’s easy

to pull out the air cleaner itself

if you need to clean off grass or debris.

If the engine never starts to smoke or lacks power,

most of the time it’s because that air cleaner

has been plugged up because somebody

hasn’t been keeping after it.

The dipsticks and the coolants are also right

here at the top as well.

Right here is the coolant.

If you’re standing where I am,

you can see the level right down there at the bottom.

The dipstick for the engine is right here at the top.

We’ve been running this machine but if you check it

before you start, you can easily

see where the indicator is right there.

If you need to top it off,

everything is right here at the top.

Kubota does a nice job at designing these engines

and laying things out so that you don’t need to pull side

covers all for cowlings or tear the engine apart

to really get down to where the guts of the engine

are to check your periodic maintenance items.

If you have a loader or a mower deck on your tractor,

it’s generally recommended

about every 10 hours of operation,

you run around with a grease gun

and hit all the grease zerks.

That’s important on the mower deck spindles

because a lot of heat is generated from those things

spinning very quickly, and on your loader where all

of your pivot pins are at.

All those pivot pins with the stresses

that are put on the loader will wear over time

if they’re not greased.

You can look at a tractor with a thousand 1,500 hours on it

where somebody didn’t grease the pins

and grab that loader and shake it back and forth

because the pins hadn’t been greased.

Keeping it simple, a $20-grease gun

around with a tube of grease that

every couple of months or every 10, 15, 20 hours or so,

10 hours is recommended, run around

with that grease gun and hit all the grease zerks on here.

That extra two or three minutes that you take

before operating the tractor

will really ensure that this thing serves

you for decades to come.

That’s the operation of the Kubota BX series tractor.

We’ve done a whole series of videos on this series

of tractors because they are so popular for us.

We here at Messick's sell a little just

about 200 of these things a year.

To see the operation of the backhoe, click right up here.

To see the operation and function of the loader,

click up over here

and see the selling features of this tractor,

right down over here.

Give us a call at Messick’s. Let us know if we can help.

We’re available at messicks.com

or at 800-222-3373. Thanks.