How To Shoot in MANUAL Mode! | Photography 101

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using manual mode on your camera is

probably one of the hardest jumps any

photographer will ever have to make but

today I'm going to teach you exactly how

exposure works so that by the end of

this video you should be shooting manual

with really good knowledge of what

you're doing so without further ado

let's just kick off the video and get

you off automatic forever everybody my

name is Sawyer Hartman and today's the

day you get off automatic on your camera

the time has come you're moving up to

manual as you've probably noticed the

second you take your camera out of

automatic your image gets way too dark

or way too light and this is because

your image is no longer properly exposed

today we're gonna learn about the three

settings that you actually use to

achieve proper exposure and those are

aperture shutter speed and ISO that's

what all the dials and knobs on your

camera are actually changing however

these three settings all affect each

other so it's impossible to change one

without having to compensate somewhere

else these three settings can be really

daunting but once you understand what

they are and why you're using them

shooting manual is really quite easy the

entire objective of manual photography

is to properly expose your image by

moving that little tick marker in your

viewfinder right to the middle of your

exposure meter if the tick mark is to

the right your image is too bright and

if it's to the left your image is too

dark you see the confusing part about

manual photography is that it's all a

give-and-take you have to identify how

you want your photograph to look and

then try to set up your settings to get

as close to that look as possible while

still properly exposing your photograph

so let's start with aperture the

aperture actually comes from the lens

and its measured in something called the

f-stop scale you can literally see right

here on the lens all of the different

f-stop options now like the human pupil

the wider the aperture gets the bigger

the hole the more light that is LED in

now I know it kind of seems backwards

but the terms wider or more open

actually refer to a smaller f-stop

number now honestly here's the important

thing to know

and understand about aperture the lower

that f-stop number means the shallower

the depth of field or the blurry or the

background in your photo conversely the

higher that f-stop number the more

everything is in focus kind of like an

iPhone but this is something that you

should actually be thinking about before

you take your photograph because you can

change the look of your photograph by

purposefully choosing your f-stop but as

you can see changing your f-stop without

actually compensating with shutter speed

or ISO changes the amount of light that

actually comes into the camera so we

must learn shutter speed and ISO to be

able to adjust for these changes the

next tool to understand is shutter speed

shutter speed is the actual length of

time the shutter is open

taking your photograph and honestly most

people change this setting without

having any clue of how it affects their

photograph the really important thing to

understand about shutter speed is a slow

shutter speed actually produces motion

blur this is because the shutter stays

open longer so it records more movement

in the photograph whereas a much faster

shutter speed only stays open for a

split second so whatever action and

movement gets frozen in time now

honestly as a rule of thumb I try to

never go below a sixtieth of a second

shutter speed because anything slower

than that if your handheld will create a

blurry image just from your hand shaking

but experiment with this and try to be

more purposeful when you're shooting

think about how you want your photo to

turn out before you actually start

messing with your settings if you're

looking for a long exposure you're gonna

want to stay below a sixtieth of a

second if you're looking to capture

natural-looking photographs you might

want to stay between say sixty and five

hundredths of a second but if you're

trying to shoot sports or freeze action

you want to keep a shutter speed of

maybe above 2,000 the more you mess with

it the more you'll understand or if you

want to experiment with some long

exposures or shutter speeds below 60 try

getting a tripod and you can really come

up with some cool creative ways to take

photographs but just remember the slower

the shutter speed the more lights coming

in you're gonna have a brighter image

whereas going to a higher shutter speed

is going to keep the lens open a little

bit shorter which means less light you

get a darker image now the last piece of

our puzzle

is ISO and luckily it's the least

important ISO is your camera's

sensitivity to light

raising your ISO artificially brightens

your image without having to change your

shutter speed or aperture

however raising your ISO does come with

consequences the higher you raise your

ISO the more noise that gets introduced

into your photograph and honestly at

higher ISO levels photographs completely

fall apart and become unusable every

camera does have a recommended ISO that

you can google for your camera but as a

general rule of thumb you want to keep

it on the lower side so you can really

cut down on that noise so just remember

you really only want to raise your ISO

when you're unable to brighten your

image using aperture or your shutter

speed now the real difference to

shooting manual photography is you

actually have to start thinking about

what you want your photograph to look

like before you actually take it that's

the whole difference when you're setting

your aperture ask yourself do I want a

blurry background or do I want

everything in focus and you should set

your aperture based on how you want your

photograph to look when you're

considering your shutter speed you

should ask yourself do I want this to be

a long exposure do I want it to have a

little bit of natural motion blur or do

I want everything to be frozen in time

and again you should set your settings

based on how you want your photograph to

turn out now remember the entire

objective of manual photography is being

able to properly expose your photograph

so most often you're gonna have to

sacrifice some of the settings in order

to expose it properly here's two

examples for me to try to explain

clearly if you're trying to take a

daytime portrait with a shallow depth of

field what is most important well

obviously you'd want to choose a very

low f-stop number so that you're able to

achieve that blurry background and then

we could do the shutter speed maybe at

120 so it's nice and sharp but not too

crisp but what if your image is now too

bright can you lower the ISO if not

you're gonna need to sacrifice some of

your settings so what do you do well you

can't sacrifice the aperture because you

really want that blurry depth of field

your ISO is already as low as it can go

so I guess that means we need to raise

the shutter speed to cut out some of the

light this way you're making very smart

choices of what settings you're

sacrificing because the one thing that

was important that depth of field that

is still going to be in your image or

let's say you want to take an action

sports like freeze-frame touchdown

photograph what's important well

obviously you're going to want to

shutter speed above 2000 so that the

image isn't blurry and you're able to

freeze everything but if you don't

really care about the depth of field or

anything else then you set your shutter

speed based on what you need and you

change your aperture and your ISO to be

able to balance out the photograph so

it's exposed now let's just try it one

more let's say you're in a concert at

night and you want to take a photo but

your image is too dark let's say you've

already adjusted your aperture to the

lowest number to let the most possible

light in you also took your shutter

speed all the way down to 60 so you

can't go any lower your photos gonna get

blurry but your image is still too dark

what do you do well this would be a

perfect opportunity to raise the ISO but

just remember the purpose of aperture

the purpose of shutter speed and the

purpose of ISO and try to actually use

that knowledge when you're thinking how

do I capture this photograph two very

quick last thoughts as you're getting

better at exposure if you want to darken

an image without sacrificing your

shutter speed or your aperture or your

ISO you can buy what's called an ND

filter this just screws on your lens and

cuts light out and on the flip side of

that if you want to brighten a dark

image and you've already maxed out your

shutter speed aperture and ISO and you

still need it to be brighter this is the

type of scenario where you'd need to

start adding more light to the scene but

other than that I hope this helped so

much I've tried to watch every YouTube

video on the internet on this topic and

they're all so confusing that I can't

even follow them so I really just wanted

to lay it out straight and try to give

you guys the knowledge so that you don't

look at manual as this weird thing you

just realize manuals just changing these


settings here's how they interact with

each other and here's how they make my

photos look and hopefully you can take

that knowledge now put it into your own

life and get the hell out of automatic

so you can start creating the images you

actually want to create but other than

that I really hope you guys enjoyed if

you did please feel free to give it a

big thumbs up and subscribe I make new

film and photography related videos

every week

but other than that I love you all very

much I'll see you next Sunday with a

brand new video and remember stay

motivated stay inspired and never stop

creating and I'll see you guys in the

next one peace