Setting up and Programming a 5 axis trunnion

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I'm Jeff and today we're going to

install a TR 160 y + 2 5 axis into a TM

2p Haas CNC mill anyway moving it into

the mill bolting it down squaring it up

finding the center of rotation and then

start getting them to some programming

with Fusion this movie's gonna be put

together pretty quick because I got

stuff I gotta be running on there in the

morning here is my trunnion chillin on

the floor here we're going to keep it

pretty low because I bought this engine

hoist from Harbor Freight


we're gonna kill the power make sure

he's home some time driving manually you

know I'm saying first time make sure he

doesn't cause any problems areas and

then area well let's go wire this thing

up in the backseat with you and figure

that out okay so well went around back I

put in the fourth axis and the fifth

axis cables when your Hoss tech is here

installing either your four or five acts

there's an amplifier and everything you

need to run it make sure you label your

wires where they go and label them

fourth and fifth put some tape on them

and make sure you get all your

parameters and everything like that

backed up this thing homes out just like

a XY or z axis so it's not necessarily

level when you home him out so what we

have to do is Sarah to work for them it

all set for the a axis first

okay so we've got him sitting flat

within whatever that indicator reads and

so all we do now is we find which work

coordinate all set that we want to leave

dedicated to this trunnion I use G 59

this is kind of at the end of the list I

usually run a double clamp advise on the

other end I got 40 inches of X so I can

put two more vices at the end and be

okay so I like to put it at the end of

the list if I can so G 59 all set all

the way down the G 59 and I'm looking

for my a axis and then all I do is say

set part zero

yeah card zero set beak four degrees

point three nine six or something like

that the next thing we need to do is

kick him up 90 degrees and then we're

gonna indicate along the X to make sure

he's sitting in there strip at the

perfect if he's not reading G 59 and

you're trying to get into 90 degrees one

thing you can do and change sides

something you ended up getting used to

doing a lot is go to MDI G 59 I'm

telling him to go to a 90 I should be

able to hit go and this thing wrap it up

the 90 degrees in the world coordinate

system that I'm working in and then will

basically leave one bolt under here kind

of snug loosen everything else up and

a man just like ruined Akkadian device


yeah we got him running in line with our

x-axis within a couple tenths or less

when it bought really good bolts that

are already the white length and

everything low-profile and tightened all

those up so now he's sitting in here

he's solid

he's in line with the x-axis now what

we're gonna do is flip him down to zero

bring out our probe and find the center

of the bore and that'll be our that'll

serve as our x and y 0 we're about to

pull out our probe now here's where

things get a little different because we

have a huge trend engineer and you can

see that if we change tools above the

trunnion there is a chance it could hit

now with an what's nice about a carousel

is your tools never change lengths in an

arm as they come around the tool change

so well whatever Z clearance you have

under the carousel is the Z clearance

you have during a tool change which is

kind of what you see is what you get

which is very nice the unfortunate part

of that is all your tools are always

dangling down all the time and you

really lose some some clearance

especially when you go home in your your

trunnion home your machine with your

onion on the table so you got this new Z

clearance problem now Haas

with Mark Terry berry and their tip of

the day I've done a really good job on

showing you how to a leus a tool change

so it goes to a particular location

basically doing a subprogram so we're

gonna go ahead and change to our tool


and we made sure we move the trunnion

out of the way two things we got left

one is Z and the other is B now Z is

probably the more complex one because

it's in a imaginary space now if you

flip into your manual or whatever

trunnion you have it should give you

that dimension but just because it does

doesn't mean that's exactly where it is

so we have to indicate that in basically

so let's go ahead and do that one way I

do it is by 12 n right on the platter

and then we'll have to offset it up to

whatever the center of rotation is


so now we've recorded that position as

our Z 40-59 but we need to all set that

up to wherever the center of rotation is

and the way that we do that is by taking

up the a axis 290 doing a probe and then

kicking the a access to negative 90

probing that finding the center and

that'll be our offset value we take that

value and we add it to a positive offset

of Z let's do it

insert G 0 insert a 90 point insert and

then make sure he's not gonna wreck

anything cuz I got a G zero in there I'm

gonna hit 25% let's start and should

just take him back now we're gonna plug

him and why but we're not going to use

the G 59 offset we can use G 54 for this

first one

now I gotta jog him up okay here he goes

now for this one I'm gonna set him up as

g55 so then I'll take the Y offset from

g54 find the difference between g55 and

then I'll take that number and offset G

59 zero positive after I divide that

difference by two this is simple all

right we get back there

I think this microphone


that is easy in the third go okay what's

going back to our G fifty nine zero in

the manual for this trunnion it

basically gives an eighth of an inch off

the surface play to zero which gets you

in the ballpark what my grab a

calculator will do the math on the

center distance between G 5400 IG 55

while we're going to divide it down the

middle and then we'll see if it gets us

close to that eighth of an inch that's

called out in the manual alright got my

calculator I got a goodwill for $0.99

and I'm not gonna lie it's a TI 30x of a

it does fractions and even degrees in

degrees minutes in seconds so if you

ever go back to the 50s make sure you

take this check today with you know help

okay so I'm gonna pull up the offsets

here for y so we got a seven point eight

two five four minus eight point zero

eight zero five equals

a quarter of an inch divided by two

equals one point two seven five five

that is the number that we will use to

offset positive in our z4g 59 so go over

to Z 59 find the Z and say point 1 2 7

and I can add a 5 and that's all the

numbers with 11 put in there we could

actually go ahead and round them to a 6

so 1 & 2 then we just hit enter now we

have X Y C and a set now these a little

bit different it's the easiest one to

set and honestly it can be a little

arbitrary depending on where you set

your Vice and really that's all the

matters if we finally get to the part

where we can screw up our Vice there we


okay so we've mounted our vise so in

this step the only thing we're going to

do is take our indicator set it in the

center of our vise dolls and what's cool

about this is you're never pivoting from

some off-axis point but you actually

rotate to be right on X so when the

Caitlyn is not a big deal

now this vise is self centering so that

means that on one side the screw

tightens it lefty-loosey righty-tighty

like standard and the other side is the

opposite lefty tighty righty loosey so

we want to make sure we we get that one

up front so we're not giving ourselves

headaches later on so I'm gonna go ahead

and test one side here that's the side

we want up front that's working good so

now we'll just rotate the B axis B hands

on and here we go

that's the beer shouldn't take more than

three times

he's written perfect okay so perfect is

relative anyway pretty really good this

is super easy it's kind of kinda nice

being able to just make that and it's

snowcap and on anyway now we're ready to

go so we're gonna set our last axis and

we'll cordon it all set blue go back

down to my offsets navigate over to B

and then I'm going to set our zero set

eighty six point eight down four degrees

so now we have X Y Z a and B all set and

relative to the machine for G 59 work

all set we need to take a couple more

dimensions though but now we'll move it

over to the cam software so what we're

going to do is we're going to probe

right on top of the of device and then

we will find out the distance from the

top of the vise to the center of

rotation we know the vise is sitting

Center but we don't know the distance

from the top of the vise to the center

of rotation once we find that then we'll

walk over to our cam software and stop



I know I could do it a different way my


I got this wire I can't

turn the face and follow all the YouTube

bylaws of recording yourself well not

super being interested in how I'm doing

it okay

so now I'm gonna probe here I'm gonna do

like g54 or something and then I'll take

the center of rotation and find the

difference and then when we go over to

our cam software we'll just make sure

that we have the center of rotation

program relative to the top of our jaws

and that way we never cut our jaws yeah

and you know where your part is

important so now we have 255 set I'm

just gonna find the difference of June


ten point six seven four six equals four

point nine five there's almost four

inches four hundred millimeters or

something like that they three fourths

to 100 millimeters so now remember

that's not for the top of the platter

that's to the imaginaries C zero that's

the center of rotation which is what we

want now let's move over to the cam

software with a magic number here of the

top of this joel's we'll get our dolls

imported won't draw where zero is and

then we can even start important than

parts and putting in in the fixtures to

escape billion so from the center of

rotation to the top of our vise jaw

that's that's where that number needs to

come into play and that way when we drop

a piece of stock in there we know

exactly where he is relative to our zero

in the machine and so basically you set

the five axes zero and then you never

change it because any change that you

make takes him off center and so he

won't work if you start rotating the

part around a couple of other things I

do for the most part I don't use the

trunnion there's no need for that unless

you modeled a spindle with all your tool

holders but I take great care in the

vise I downloaded this I created made

all the joints to associate it with it

to make it isn't and lifelike as

possible how would use him in the

world so i created or made some slider

mates here kept it on center and then if

I grab one the other one moves to then I

gave it limits so I can it won't go past

that that limit and he won't go past

that limit and the reason this one is

moving on center with this was because I

created a motion link so now whenever

I'm modeling a part of programming a

part I can kind of figure out where my

jar lead to be so all my tools clear and

once I get that we're and where they

need to be and I know that all my tools

are clear

I'd kind of leave them in a particular

position once they're there then my next

step is I have to cut those dovetails

into my stock which here isn't a problem

for instance I've already modeled where

my zero will be here and then where my

stock gets cut here I'll right-click say

I want to edit I could I could measure

from here to here and get close but

doesn't make my sketch real editable

that kind of gets me close and now now I

can kind of back up this if you noticed

earlier like it gives me my clearance on

the bottom because you can't have it hit

here and here at the same time you

really need your part to sit flush on

the top of your jaws and have a little

space down here so this cut leaves me

ten thousands of tolerance on the bottom

now once I'm done with that I'll

actually hide my vise and then use these

two profiles to cut out my stock

and again I got my zero got my stocks

all in one cut and I can adjust these

things on the fly as I'm programming

that saves me a lot of time here's a

part that we're setting up to make right

now you know notice we've already cut

the stock we have the jaws when we need


there's our zero we've already made a

setup and we associated this with our

zero so in the machine he would be

looking like that right there with the X

pointing to the right so we don't need

our stock anymore for this the swarf

moves they're not too hard to do I just

select the death surface and then I had

to offset could see I got that radius on

the bottom so I've got a tool in there

with a thirty thousand radius so then I

all said it thirty thousands to the

bottom so it kind of matches up in there


if that swarf was if I could if I could

set it like the swarf was on the side

here I would want to use my tool

orientation to get him as close as I

could to his starting or entry move kind

of help him out a little bit not always

necessary but for the most part that's

what I like to do now so these holes

they're pretty easy yeah if I wanted to

drill this hole I would select the hole

and then I would select a z-axis

click areas he always goes the opposite

way I don't know how he does that he

always knows exactly the opposite of

what I wanted to do

nobody does but click reverse or flip

axes and then to set X so just you can't

set X fusion keep in mind that price is

right so you actually have to get rid of

X and then click it to be able to

associate it and then he reverses and

forgets Z and then you have to go to Z

that didn't go okay

select that there goes you like that for

some reason you're gonna kind of mess

with it a little bit that's alright

that's right I work with them on their

bugs you know being able to select Z and

change it is nice you really should be

able to do that with your ex - one thing

you might find yourself doing is doing

patterns like I didn't like because most

of the time when people are drilling

holes are doing features sometimes

they're all symmetrical so by creating a

pattern with the drill you can say you

want a circular pattern select the

circle and see now you're just a you've

only programmed one hole but you can now

now all those holes are drilled and it's

still just one operation it's not what I

did here but it is kind of slick when

you start doing parts that are based on

angle and symmetrical on everything

there we go

so programming three axis and program at

five axis positionally is not a big leap

so that's it you did it I hope we can do

more videos like this in the future

we're done I said a bunch of junk but I

cut it all out take it easy