Installing Laminate Flooring For The First Time // Home Renovation

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what's going on everybody I'm Johnny

Brook welcome back to another crafter

workshop video today I've got kind of

the first home renovation project on

this channel I'm replacing all of the

carpet in this room with this really

nice laminate flooring and this is

basically gonna become my final photo

wall where I get all those thumbnails

from my projects all those final shots

and I am super excited to have a room

dedicated to this so hopefully you guys

enjoy this one let's go ahead and get

started with the bill the first step was

any flooring installation project is

going to be cleaning out the room and

this particular room had accumulated a

good bit of stuff over the last couple

years we've lived in this house

luckily my buddy Alex came over to help

out with this step and it went pretty

quickly once the room was empty we could

get to ripping up the carpet and there

were two different types of carpet going

from the main room to this bedroom so I

first needed to cut the seam between

those two pieces so I didn't tear up the

carpet that we were keeping in the main

room after cutting the seam I could just

pull back on the carpet and start

ripping it up this carpet was attached

with tack strips around the perimeter of

the room so it required some force to

pull up but eventually it started coming

up once I got a section going I cut it

into a strip to make it more manageable

and carpet is extremely heavier really a

lot heavier than you expect so it makes

it a lot easier to move out of the room

if it's in smaller chunks like this I've

rolled up each strip as I cut them and

took it outside as we went and we just

kept repeating this process with the

carpet and the pad underneath until the

room was completely empty and then I

could move on to removing the tack

strips and these things are kind of a

pain in the butt but there's a method to

removing them that makes things a lot

easier I actually picked up this method

from my buddy Bob over it I like to make

stuff he has some really great flooring

installation videos on other types of

flooring you should definitely go check

those out but anyway that trick was

removing tack strips efficiently is to

hit your pry bar underneath each of the

nails that's holding down the tack strip

but only just enough to loosen it if you

actually pry up on the strip it has a

tendency to splinter into a bunch of

pieces which makes cleanup a lot more

challenging and it's not always going to

come off perfectly depending on how the

nails respond but you can definitely

move a lot faster if you avoid prying

and focus on just popping the nails out

you can see here how quickly it goes and

how easy it is to clean up when the

strip comes off in one piece

once all the tack strips were up I could

then vacuum the entire room making sure

all of the little nail

it held down the tax strips were gone if

any of these little things end up

underneath the flooring it will be

really obvious after installation so be

really careful and thorough here next I

could start adding the underlayment and

since I'm using pergo flooring I went

with pergo underlayment as well and it

was really easy to work with when

installing laminate on top of a concrete

slab your underlayment needs to have

some kind of vapor barrier which this

one does to lay the underlayment I just

added a strip cut it to length tucked it

under the baseboard and then moved on to

the next row and luckily this stuff was

the perfect length to cover two rows per

pack of underlayment so this made things

really easy this stuff also already had

an adhesive strip attached so I could

just attach the strip's to each other

without the need for any underlayment

tape and the main area of the room was

really easy but things got a little bit

more tricky when I got to the closet but

I just took my time did a bunch of test

fitting and eventually got it pretty

much perfect once all the underlayment

was installed I could move on to

actually adding the flooring alright so

now that the room is all cleaned up and

we've got all this underlayment down we

can get to finally actually putting in

this flooring it it should go pretty

quickly these first couple rows I think

are gonna be a little bit more tricky

just because they're not gonna be

weighted down and attached to a lot of

other things so they're gonna have a

tendency to slide around and that kind

of thing I bought this kind of kit it

had some spacers it had some tapping

blocks and it had a pull bar three

things that you're definitely gonna need

to probably good to go ahead and get a

kit like that all the link in the video

description below so what I'm gonna do

here is go ahead and cut off this end

over at the Microsoft and then I'm also

going to rip off the tongue on these

inside edges here on this first row at

the table saw and then the final thing

we're gonna want to do before we move

over to the shop is measure the length

of the last board in this row so that

way I can go ahead and cut that to

length before ripping the tongue off of

it so that I can then use that cut off

in my next row to get that nice

staggered joint so let's go ahead and

lay these out and then we can get that

measurement and then we can move into

the shop so for the first row I needed

to cut off the tongue on the short edge

of the first board as well as rip off

the tongue on all the boards on the

first row now before doing that I marked

a line on the last board in the first

I used my miter saw to cut all the

boards to linked on this project but a

circular saw and speed square would also

work just fine realistically these cuts

don't need to be perfect since they're

gonna be covered up by quarter round

trim anyway after cutting the short

tongue off the first board and cutting

the last board to lengthen the miter saw

I ripped the tongue off of all three of

the boards from the first row at the

bandsaw and as you might notice I

actually got this backwards ripping off

the groove instead of the tongue and

this caused a ton of frustration when

trying to install those first few rows

but once I figured out my error I

started over with fresh boards and this

made my life a whole lot easier with my

corrected boards I could get to

assembling the first few rows and to

attach the board's I first lifted the

board with the tongue facing the groove

and pushed it in until it was fully

seated and then I could push down on the

board to lock the board's in place next

I added the next board again seating

that long edge first and then tapping

the board into place to seat the short

edge and with a few boards added I could

add a box of flooring on top to help

keep the board's in place while tapping

and I just kept repeating this process

for the first two rows and I found it a

lot easier to put these together by

staggering the board's rather than

trying to do one complete row at a time

at least for this first pair of rows

once I got to the last board in the

first row I needed to use a pull bar to

pull the board into place since a

tapping block wouldn't fit I could then

mark the last board on the second row to

length and this is really easy to do if

you just flip the board around so the

grooves are facing each other and this

will ensure you have a board at the

perfect length with no measuring and you

know forgetting your numbers when you're

headed out to the miter saw after

cutting the piece to lengthen the miter

saw I can install it again using the

pull bar to fully seated and with those

first two rows done things got a whole

lot easier since the boards had less of

a tendency to slide around I added a

third row and then slid all three rows

into their final place with the spacer

blocks on all three sides of the board's

and from there it was just more of the

same adding more boards cutting them to

length and making sure to stagger those

joints so that I didn't have any joints

that were closer than 12 inches from

each other and I just kept repeating

this until I got to my first obstacle

doorway and I needed to notch out the

board to fit underneath the trim making

sure that the edges of the flooring were

completely concealed by this trim since

I wouldn't be adding cord around to this

area before notching out the board I

the final length and then made a few

marks on the board where I needed to cut

it and to cut out the notch I used a jig

saw which made really easy work of this

process once I cut out the notch I could

test fit the board and realized I had

once again mixed things up work Irie got

a new board off camera and then needed

to undercut the trim before installing

the board and to do this I used an off

cut of the flooring to hold up my flush

trim saw and cut away the trim and this

results in a perfect fit with almost no

gap between the flooring and trim next I

could tap the board into place and

you'll notice I ended up using an off

cut of the flooring on rather than the

tapping block in most of these scenarios

these tongues are pretty fragile and

it's really easy to damage them with a

regular tapping block from there I could

just continue installing more flooring

repeating the steps you've already seen

and while I'm installing let's talk

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install all of the quarter round trim on

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I just kept installing flooring until I

got to my next obstacle transition

alright now I've gotten flooring

installed up to the first doorway that

I'm gonna need to add one of these

transition pieces and I know I've

already worked on another doorway but

that one already has a transition that's

going from here in an air-conditioned

space out into my garage so it's got

more of a kind of weatherproof and

insulated strip there so we're going to

use this kind of transition over there

but here we're transitioning from this

laminate flooring to carpet and then

here behind me going into the bathroom

I'm really transitioning from the

laminate to tile so I've got these

matching transition strip so go ahead

and cut it to length just did that with

the miter saw and then the other piece

that comes with the kit is this metal

strip and this is what actually connects

to the subfloor and then the bottom of

the transition has a little piece that

fits right into this strip once I have

that in place then I can go ahead and

install the rest of my flooring and add

the transition piece well once I'm done

with the flooring so let's go ahead and

get do it I attach the aluminum train

tract and then to continue installing

the flooring I needed to install this

track so I could know what length boards

needed to be in this area so that I

could leave the correct expansion gap

and the last little bit of flooring to

install is always the most tricky you

usually have a bunch of stuff to work

around in this case I needed to rip the

board's width

allowing for the correct gap between the

tile and the flooring for the transition

as well as notching the boards to fit

around all this trim once again I just

took my time taking a bunch of

measurements and eventually got a really

nice fit and on this very last board you

can see I actually needed to notch out

the long edge so that I could fit my

pull bar in to seat that board and this

actually ended up working out really

well with that area of the flooring

complete I could go ahead and add the

transitions which just snap into place

right into those tracks next I could

work on the closet which I was honestly

dreading for some reason but ended up

going really quickly it was just more

the same and I finished by ripping the

last boards to width to fit the space

and with that the flooring was done so

all that was left with this install was

to add the quarter round trim over that

expansion gap around the entire

perimeter of the room and since my

quarter round came in eight foot lengths

and my room is 12 foot wide I needed to

join the pieces in the middle of the

room to do this I cut a 45 degree miter

on each end of the piece one to go into

the corner of the room and one for where

the two pieces of trim will meet in the

center of the room one thing to keep in

mind when cutting and installing quarter

round is that there's one wider face on

the piece and this face needs to be face

down on both the miter saw when making

the cuts and when being installed in the

room after cutting the pieces of linked

I installed it with inch and a half long

Brad nails making sure to nail into the

baseboard and knot in the flooring the

whole point of this gap is to allow for

expansion and contraction and if you

nail directly into the flooring it won't

be able to do that once all the trim was

installed this install was done all

right hopefully you guys enjoyed this

one I'm really happy with the way this

room came together I think the flooring

looks great the gray color on this wall

I think is just perfect for what I need

it to be and I am just so happy to

finally have a space dedicated to this

so previously you might have noticed I

kind of took all of my final glamour

shots and thumbnails outside and it's

really hard to control for light and

weather when shooting that outside

natural light is obviously really nice

but to be able to completely control the

lighting in this room is going to be

super super nice and

I'm just really excited so I'm

definitely gonna have some more home

renovation projects coming up later this

fall I'm actually gonna be completely

finishing my attic space turning that

into a home office for me so stay tuned

for that hopefully you guys will enjoy

that one if it's your first time the

channel go ahead and get subscribed I

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miss any of my future videos or live

streams also all the lists of all the

tools and materials I used in the video

description below including the exact

type of flooring I used in case you guys

want to kind of replicate this look and

last I have added that YouTube sponsored

feature into the channel so if you guys

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get exclusive live streams and exclusive

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perks so thanks again for watching

everybody and until next time happy