How to nail
Engineered Wood Flooring
How to Install Engineered Hardwood – Nail Down Method
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Hi, I'm professional house planner Jack Thomasson, and I've had the privilege of
working with Shaw Floors on custom home projects for television and magazines across North America.
Today I'm going to show you how to install Shaw's engineered hardwood flooring. Factory
finished engineered hardwood is the fastest growing segment of the hardwood industry,
and it's easy to see why. Engineered hardwood is real wood. It's layers of hardwood joined together
to make it an even stronger floor, and the top layer is every bit as natural and beautiful as
solid hardwood. Plus, engineered hardwoods are more stable than solid hardwood and can even
be installed in basements. Engineered hardwoods can be installed using the floating, glue down,
and nail or staple methods. So let's get started. Before beginning the installation process,
be sure to read all manufacturer's instructions carefully. Some of the most important things
you can do to ensure a successful flooring installation take place before you install
the first plank. For any hardwood installation, it's important to place the hardwood in the room
where you'll install it for at least 48 hours so the planks can acclimate to the
home's temperature and humidity levels. Why? Your flooring will expand and contract. That's natural,
but if a doesn't acclimate to the room the expansion and contraction could be so severe
that it could buckle the entire floor. You'll need to maintain a temperature between 65 and
75 degrees Fahrenheit and a relative humidity of 35 to 55 percent for a minimum of 5 days prior to
the delivery of the floor, as well as during and after installation. When the flooring arrives,
open the ends of the cartons and leave them stacked no more than three cartons high in
the room where the flooring will be installed. Another important part of your prep work is
moisture testing. Moisture under your floor can be its worst enemy. Always test wood sub floors
and wood flooring for moisture content using a pen type moisture meter. Take readings of the
subfloor a minimum of 20 times per thousand square feet and average the results. In most regions,
a dry subfloor that is ready for installation has a moisture content of 12% or less. For plank
flooring three inches or wider, there should be no more than a 2% difference between acclimated
wood and subfloor. Then you'll want to make sure your subfloor is clean, dry, and flat within 1/8
of an inch in any 6-foot section. You will need to remove quarter round and undercut door frames
to provide necessary clearance for your new engineered hardwood flooring. The materials
and tools you'll need to install your engineered hardwood: a tape measure, painter's tape, hammer,
moisture meter, handsaw, electric miter saw, table saw, pry bar, safety glasses, dust mask,
tapping block, 1/2 inch spacers, transitions and moldings, a drill, air hose, 15-pound
roofers felt, wood filler, inline air regulator, compressor, and pneumatic nailer or stapler.
After the subfloor has been properly cleaned and prepped, cover the subfloor with 15-pound
asphalt felt paper. The material will help keep the floor clean and prevent moisture from below.
Once you've taken care of the subfloor, it's time to move on to planning your installation
You'll want to pull planks from multiple boxes to achieve an even color variety across the floor.
First, you need to decide which direction to run the planks. Ideally you should install
the board's perpendicular to the direction of your floor joists. Once you know the direction,
you'll decide your starting wall. Some homeowners find it easiest to run planks parallel to an
exterior wall because they are often straighter than interior walls. Now it's time to begin laying
out the flooring, also called racking the floor. Use random length planks from several different
cartons. You'll want each row to use a variety of lengths to avoid a pattern appearance. Make sure
the groove side of each plank faces your starting wall. It's important to stand back and examine the
board arrangement in good light to make sure your layout has the look you want before you
begin installation. Now what I'm about to tell you may be the most confusing part of an installation.
We're going to determine the size of our first and last rows. Why? Because the room will look
more beautiful if the first and last rows are equal size. The sign of a new installer is a
first row that's six inches wide and a last row that's three. Before you start your first row,
measure the room. Divide by the width of the flooring planks you're installing. How many
planks will it hold? Half of what remains will be the size of the first row and the other half will
be the size of the last. When cutting the first row and removing part of the width, you'll want
to keep the side with the tongue. When cutting the last row, keep the groove side. Keep in mind,
though, that no row should ever be less than 2 inches wide. Now that you've established
the layout and figured the width of your first and last rows, we're going to fit the first two
rows together. Start with the first plank in the right corner and connect the second plank
at the end joint. Continue this process until you reach the end of the first row. You will probably
need to cut the final plank to fit. Now here's something you need to understand before you make
your first cut: expansion space. You will need to maintain an expansion space of a half-inch around
the perimeter of the entire room, including walls, cabinets, and other obstacles. You can use spacers
to help maintain consistent expansion space. Why is this necessary? Wood is a natural product and
it will expand and contract slightly with changes in temperature and humidity. The expansion space
will give your floor room to expand and contract. So, at this point, you have your first row in
place. Now you'll add the second row plank by plank, again from right to left. Connect the
planks using the tongue of the first row and the groove of the second row. Cut the length of the
last plank as needed. Step back and have a look. All end joints should be separated by a minimum
of 16 inches in your first four rows to create greater stability in these foundational rows.
Check and make sure the end joints in these first two rows are staggered appropriately.
Install the first row of starter planks along the chalk line or straightedge. Secure the pieces into
position with the tongue facing away from the starter wall and facing toward you. Drill pilot
holes through the face of the plank every six inches, preferably in the dark grain,
approximately one inch from the back edge of the board and secure planks with one inch
finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill holes with appropriate colored wood filler,
removing excess filler from surface. Blind nail at a 45 degree angle through the tongue
one inch to two inches from the end joints and every six inches in between along the
length of the starter boards. If needed, use a tapping block to help engage the
board's together until the tongue and groove is flush and tight and no gaps are present between
adjacent planks. It's important to remember to never use a rubber mallet or hammer directly
on the flooring to engage the tongue and groove as this can damage your flooring.
You can install the trim and moldings which are key to a beautifully finished floor.
Quarter-round covers the expansion gap around the perimeter of the room and gives the room a
polished look. In doorways less than six feet wide, you'll need a transition piece. Use a T
molding if connecting to a floor of the same height or a reducer if connecting to a floor
of a different height. These pieces create a safe and attractive transition. If you're
installing the hardwood floors on stairs or at a step down, you'll need a stair nose. There are
flush stair nose and overlap stair nose options. The flush stair nose is used for nail, staple,
or glue down installations, while the overlap stair nose is used for floating floors. Be sure
to sweep or vacuum without using the beater bar and clean the floor with a proper wood
floor cleaner. You don't want to use oil-based products on your hardwood floor because it can
cause a buildup on the hardware that dulls the appearance. Store any unused materials
in a dry place and case repairs are needed in the future. And remember, always use plywood
or hardboard as protection when moving heavy appliances or furniture across your new floor.
Then it will be time to relax and enjoy your beautiful new engineered hardwoods from the Shaw
Floors. Best of luck on your installation and if you have any questions or need more information,
visit the website below or contact the Shaw product specialist support team.
