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Complete Corn Snake Care Guide | 2018 Edition



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welcome to the complete cornsnake care

guide this is a been requested quite a

bit I did one very long ago it's very

bad please don't watch it this is the

brand new 2018 update of everything that

you need to know to care for your clinic

[Music]

firstly if you go to the description of

this video you're going to find a ton of

resources that will help you throughout

this video for example if you get a GU

harping comm slash corn snakes you can

find the written care guide and the

audio care guide version of what you're

about to watch along with this video and

lots of other stuff I also have a

complete kit put together of everything

I used to set my corn snake up we'll

talk about all the stuff in that

throughout this video but if you go to

the kit comm link in the description you

can see everything that I use supplies

wise and you can order straight on

Amazon from there that also helps

support the channel and finally this

channel is filled with all types of

reptile and amphibian husbandry and all

sorts of other things I've done plenty

of other videos on corn snakes and you

can find those links also in the

description firstly we need something to

base all of this information on

obviously there are years of research

and experience with all sorts of keepers

all over the planet but I think it's

important that we actually go and have a

look at where clone snakes are naturally

found

[Music]

so corn snakes are from the eastern part

of the United States so it only makes

sense to come out to where they're from

I'm here in North Carolina but they're

all around various states in this area

so we really get a chance to look at

what their natural habitat kind of looks

like obviously you don't want to

duplicate it exactly because corn snakes

have longer lifespans in captivity for a

reason that bean because we can remove

anything that's been found to be

dangerous but either way we can get a

nice general idea so around here in an

area that's somewhat common for corn

snakes and other types of colubrids

you've got lots of soil obviously along

with clay you've also got lots of dead

brush like pine needles and old leaves

from all types of different trees you

can see this primarily pine around here

I'll get to find later as to why that's

something that you should actually avoid

but there's also a handful of hardwoods

and other types of trees I don't know

trees very well unless it just

immediately rained it's really almost

never damp unless you find different

things like vernal pools or lakes or

whatever in fact there's a lake if you

keep walking right down that way but

like a couple days after it rains all

that water will run down so the actual

areas with lots of hiding places for

different types of reptiles

it's really quite dry up here there's no

like super damp or muddy areas that

you're gonna find corn snakes hanging

out in one of the nice things about

these areas with lots of pines is funds

don't actually live very long but

because these trees are dropping so

often it really leaves a lot of hiding

places I don't know if I hear an animal

or a tree cracking above me hopefully is

just an animal without the good timing

now right around all the stuff that's

falling around here I see lots of little

things skittering around

I'm guessing summer Birds but there are

also different types of mammals and of

course other smaller reptiles things

that corn snakes would love to turn into

their food so not only is it a great

place for them to hide and stay safe but

because all this brush attracts you to

their animals it's a nice way to snake

bed

now let's go ahead and get all the

pieces together to create the perfect

enclosure for your corn snake keep in

mind there is no actual perfect way to

do this there are a lot of options I'll

try and cover all of them but everyone's

going to give you different advice on

what to do and how to create the

superior setup you have three main

options as to what you're going to put

your corn snake in a glass enclosure a

plastic enclosure and a wooden enclosure

firstly glass enclosures these are what

I prefer as you can probably tell but a

lot of people really hate other people

using glass enclosures I think this is a

bit unnecessary seeing as there's been

so many people that keep animals and

perfect conditions in these enclosures

now they are more expensive than

something like a plastic tub however if

you ask me they just look better if you

want to build some sort of beautiful

natural custom varium then a glass

enclosure is probably going to be one of

the best options to do this in because

it's very easy to see in and very easy

to work with now glass enclosures may be

better or worse depending on the climate

that you're in they hold less humidity

and less heat than plastic so this might

be a good thing if you're in a more hot

or humid environment yourself because

corn snakes don't need anything super

hot or super damp at the same time even

if you are in a dry cold place you are

going to still have success as long as

you set everything up properly in a

glass enclosure but it's possible that

one of the other alternatives are

actually better for you for example

plastic tubs these are super cheap you

can just like go to Target find one for

ten bucks and there you go you just got

to drill some ventilation in with some

holes or whatever you can even add some

screen yourself but this also has its

downsides

it just looks not as good now I do have

some animals in plastic tubs including

some ball pythons and some leopard

geckos these are not animals that I'm

keeping permanently so it really doesn't

matter if I can't like see them every

day I can really only see them super

well if I actually take them out now

it's not like pitch black in there

because plastic is usually clear

hopefully you're gonna get a clear one

the animal will be fine like light wise

which we'll get into later but it is

just not as easy to see your animal in

plastic compared to glass and again

it'll be more difficult to build some

nicer varium because you won't be able

to enjoy it as much plastic however is

also much light

and it holds a lot more heat and

humidity which might be better in your

case finally there's the custom wooden

enclosures I don't know as much about

this I've been talking to people about

them there's lots of ways to set these

up and you really are never going to be

able to actually find one to buy you

might be able to find someone willing to

make one for you but generally you're

going to have to make this from scratch

yourself this might be a great thing

because it's 100% custom you put all the

work in yourself and it's exactly how

you want it but you're going up to buy

all these resources so it'll be much

more expensive than a plastic tub it in

some cases it might be more or less

expensive than a glass enclosure

depending on just how flat see that

glasses but it tends to be a bit more

difficult to heat because you have fewer

options for example under tank heaters

or heat mats are one of the very popular

ways to heat corn snakes we're going to

get into this once we get to temperature

but lots of heat mats actually specify

that they should only be used on glass

and not on plastic or wood people do

still use them on plastic is it safe

probably there's ways to make it safe

but is technically going against the

instructions however wood it's just too

thick for heat mats and I really would

not suggest putting the heat mat inside

the actual enclosure as it should

generally go on the bottom or the side

there are other ways to heat this or you

can build your wooden enclosure with a

PVC or plastic bottom so you can still

use the heat mat so that is glass

plastic and wood enclosures

unfortunately I can't give you an exact

one to use again I'm using glass and I

use plastic with some other animals and

I do have one wooden enclosure so they

all work and it's a lot of us just up to

opinion and environment firstly let's

talk about the size so this is an adult

corn snake here this is goby as you can

see a little bit larger than a baby corn

snake a juvenile corn snake really does

not need very much space at all a

10-gallon is actually enough for a

hatchling corn snake or a ten gallon

equivalent size if you're doing plastic

or wood or whatever however you're going

to have to upgrade your corn snakes

somewhat soon after because the ten

gallon is not going to last very long so

I would say to go straight to a 20

gallon or 20 gallon equivalent if you're

using something else but it's pretty

hard to find a corn snake in something

this small

one option you have is to find a very

small plastic Tupperware and then keep

your corner snake in that as a baby and

then upgrade it to a 20 or something

larger later an adult corn snake lots of

people say a 20 gallon is enough for its

entire life goby is currently in a 20

gallon and it is way too small in my

opinion he's just about to be upgraded

to a 40 because they do tend to be a lot

more active than other snakes either way

I think any animal should be given a lot

of space personally I don't think corn

snake enclosures can be too large a lot

of people say if it's over X gallons or

over X feet long then the corn snake is

not going to be happy and it's going to

be stressed this is very possible but

it's also possible in something much

smaller if you want all the details on

this I did a video on that and basically

as to whether enclosures can be too

large a table short answer is if you ask

me they cannot but an adult corn snake

if you're going bare minimum I would

suggest a 40 or something a bit larger

but you're going to get mixed answers

and then finally after putting all that

other stuff in the enclosure you just

really want to clutter the thing up I

mean you can make it look nice you don't

my stuff to dump stuff in but giving

your snake lots of different places to

hide is basically a requirement some

people will say like you need exactly

three hides and they have to go here

here and here and if it's not like that

then your corn snakes going to be

stressed and die I think that's a little

extreme it doesn't have to be a hide

they can be kind of expensive literally

just getting anything to help your snake

feel comfortable whether it's live

plants or fake plants or actual hides or

planks of wood whatever you want as long

as it's safe it works but obviously

reptile hides usually look the best you

can also get cheaper hides like just

plastic ones or whatever there's I like

the half logs however these have

openings on both sides so some people

say that snakes are less comfortable

when there's that much light coming in

so you can get a hide this completely

covered with one hole there's lots of

options just giving your animal places

to hide both on the hot side and the

cool side so they don't have to choose

security over warmth or coolness if

they're getting too hot is the best way

to do it

next up temperature is very important

but luckily for us coordinate keepers

it's not super hard to get correct they

don't need anything super

over like a hundred something degrees

and you do not have to cool the

enclosure down like you do with some

animals to an even colder temperature

than what your room is firstly there are

many ways to actually heat this

enclosure I mentioned heat mats before

which is my preferred method but you can

also use heat bulbs or heat lamps or

just a light bulb on top that once a

enclosure out now if you think about a

corn snake out in the wild they are

usually going to want some way to heat

up they usually do this by going out and

finding something that is warmer than

just the air temperature for example

they might find something like a rock or

something else that can warm up but

whatever it is this thing has been

heated up by the Sun the corn snake goes

on that surface the surface is warm and

the coarse snake is happy so using the

heat bulb to heat an actual surface up

works just fine so a heat mat basically

does the same thing but instead of

heating the surface up from above it's

heating it from below this means that

you can lay your corn snakes stay hidden

and secure while still warming up this

is kind of equivalent to a snake going

under something that's heated up like

under some rocks or under some wood or

under a piece of tin or something I

guess tin isn't natural but it's kind of

everywhere now an animal that's away and

hidden from plain sight is usually going

to feel much safer and a lot less

stressed which is obviously a good thing

and then in some cases people have to

use both of these heating methods if

it's just a way too cold in their house

now heat mats I'm going to talk about

them a bit more they can get extremely

hot just sticking it on the bottom of

your enclosure and leaving it is

something that I did many years ago not

many like four years ago with my ball

python and that was a mistake because it

gets very hot and you're going to have

some issues this and possibly result in

burning or stress or your snake just

completely avoiding that area which

means it's just going to be super cold

and another part of the enclosure if it

can't actually get to a nice heating

spot now the very best way to manage

this is with a thermostat these are like

twenty or thirty bucks on Amazon I have

my favorites link below or we can go to

government comm slash corn snake

temperature right yeah corn snake

temperature and I have all of my

favorite heating methods linked on

Amazon with my favorite heat bulbs heat

Metz

thermostats the instructions are on

there you basically just plug your heat

mat into the thermostat so the

thermostat to the temperature but the

probe in the enclosure or under the

enclosure and you're good to go this way

you don't have to worry about regulating

the temperature it does it all for you

automatically okay we haven't even

talked about the actual temperatures

themselves yet but based on lots of

cornsnake keepers experience lots of

breeders that have found what works best

and a bit on their national environment

of course you should have a hot spot of

approximately 85 degrees Fahrenheit or

29 point four degrees Celsius it doesn't

have to be down to the decimal point it

can be like 87 or 83 or whatever it's

not gonna kill your corn snake but just

trying to set that at about 85 degrees

is going to work best now if you don't

know a hot spot is basically the warmest

spot that your snake has access to in

the enclosure I like to put the hot spot

on one side or the other so then there's

a temperature gradient so like if a corn

snake is here heat man is here the

further you go over the cooler it gets

and then all the way over here it's at

the coolest point because corn snakes

are ectothermic or cold-blooded they

cannot regulate their body temperature

so they have to basically adapt to the

environment and find the right spot to

regulate it for them and then same thing

with a heat bulb it can be a bit more

difficult using the heat bulb it won't

be as exact because if you're using a

thermostat it's going to turn on and off

all the time which like all that

flickering and inconsistent light might

be kind of annoying you can however use

lights that do not actually let off any

light and it's just a bulb like a

ceramic heat emitter I also have those

linked below so something a lot of

people ask about is how cold the cool

side should be people have a lot of

difficulty finding what the actual cool

side of the enclosure should be set at

there's no like exact specific

temperature that it needs to be but what

I like to do is have the cool side drop

about 5 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit

compared to the hot side for example if

the hot side is 85 then the cool side is

about 75 to 80 if again if it's like 74

degrees I think that'll be okay as long

as the hotspot is okay because it's

exact temperatures like

it's it's all estimations if you do need

to heat the cool side up you could just

add a very dim heat lamp or I guess you

if you have a very high budget you could

even get a second heat mat and set is

not a very low temperature

but most of the time just having the hot

side will naturally regulate all the

stuff on the cool side so you don't have

to worry about it

next up humidity again this is not very

difficult which is one of the reasons

that clone sinks are very easy for

beginners because they really don't need

any specific humidity levels not you

don't want this to be too high humidity

that is way over what it should be can

result in things like scale rot

respiratory infections and all this

other great stuff and if it is too dry

you can have a dehydrated snake which is

also not very fun it's also going to

cost things like stuck sheds but the

range that I have found is best and that

I usually see people agreeing on it's

about 30% to 50% humidity most rooms are

just about this my room I think in the

winter is like 30% and then in the

summer it's about 50 or 60% so it's kind

of perfect and most of the time unless

you're like in the middle of the Sahara

Desert it should be all good now I would

suggest that your corn snakes humidity

does not go over 60%

again this is an estimation like

everything else but keeping it below

that again between the 30 and 50 is your

goal over 60% like when you're going

into the 70s and 80s that's really when

people start having this not severe

issues but there's really annoying

issues that can become severe if they

last for too long and then if it's below

like 20 degrees you might have some

stuck shad or other issues so there's a

handful of ways to actually adjust the

humidity none of them are perfect and it

needs some plane around again you can

use different types of enclosures so if

you're in a very dry place of like 5%

humidity maybe use a tub and if you're

in the middle of Hawaii maybe use a

glass enclosure or wooden enclosure or

something else you can spray corn snake

enclosures you don't want the substrate

to be damp all the time because that can

also cause things like scale rots but

just give it a little misting down if it

does need to be a little bit higher

works just fine

you can also cover parts of the screen

if you have screen on your enclosure for

example you can lay a plastic bag of

like half of the screen and that will

hold more humidity in I would say the

best thing to do though is to change the

substrate and your enclosure will get to

substrate in just a minute as to which

ones are best and how each one works if

you go to the kit link below you can

find the hydrometer I suggest it's just

super cheap super easy to use just stick

the probe in the enclosure and it tells

you the humidity level I forgot to

mention for actually seeing temperatures

you can use a handful of different

things now you can actually regulate the

temperature with this but you can just

check it using a little temperature gun

it's very easy to use not too expensive

you can find them on Amazon I also have

them in that kit next up we've got

substrate substrate is pretty easy to

deal with however there are quite a few

options that you have

firstly let's just get the bad ones out

of the way anything with pine or cedar

should be avoided

I talked about pine and cedar and how

it's kind of everywhere in the National

environment however when you bring these

things into an enclosure these let off

very strong fumes these fumes have been

known to actually cause issues with

snakes usually causing things like

respiratory infections and just making

your animal uncomfortable luckily

there's very few substrates that

actually have this I don't know why

there's any left there's I saw like one

brand that sells it so there are three

main substrate cycle arsenic keepers use

firstly there's Cyprus this is usually

found by zoo Med it's called forest

floor this is the one I'm currently

using with Gobi it comes usually a

little bit damp so it holds a bit more

humidity however you can very easily

just dry this out if you don't need that

I think this is one of the best-looking

substrates it's a very natural color

obviously because it's just natural wood

and at the same time it's very easy to

clean and easy to spot corn stink upin I

know that's kind of weird but you'll get

what I mean when I talk about the second

option which is coconut fiber you can

find this in eco earth by Zuma

or plantation soil by EXO taro both of

these work like the exact same thing I

would just go with whichever one you can

find more cheaply

I have those also linked on Amazon with

the link below eco earth you could say

looks even more natural because it's

basically just soil I love using this I

use it in a ton of meat enclosures you

can probably see it it's very cheap it's

very easy to use

and you can really choose just how much

humidity it holds because it can be very

damp for example I have one with the

chubby frog back there and at the same

time it can be very dry now this color

just happens to be like the exact same

color as corn snake poop and pretty much

all snake so and I feel a little more

difficult to spot it but if you just do

some searching you'll find it just fine

the next option is Aspen which I use

with a couple animals you can see it

down there with the rat snake and right

there with the sand boa Aspen is a much

lighter color I don't like it as much

just because it doesn't look as natural

it obviously just looks like some kind

of snake bedding you picked up at the

pet store there's nothing wrong with

that but I do like having it more

natural and this is an extremely cheap

option very easy to clean very easy to

change and it's awesome for burrowing

corn snakes aren't like considered

burrowing animals but they do

occasionally like to move around

it seems that juvenile corn snakes do

this a lot more sometimes burrowing

means that it's either too hot or too

cold in the enclosure but there's been

so many people with perfect temperatures

that still have corn snakes that burrow

I wouldn't be too worried about it as

long as you keep your temperatures on in

check and check

uncheck but you do have more options in

these three you can also use things like

paper towel it's ugly but it's very

sanitary and easy to change it does not

allow for your clone sink to move around

as much this is usually used in

quarantine in periods that's when I use

it at least if they're an animal does

need to be quarantined and breeders use

paper towel and paper a lot because it's

just you get a swap out and it's cheap

and lame we can also do a mix I love to

mix the Cypress and the coconut fiber

for example right there and my ball

python enclosure actually both of all

Python enclosures right there that is a

mix of the two

and very easy to hold substrate looks

very nice and it's a bit different from

what other people use because not

everybody mixes them but yeah you've got

a handful of options here basically just

pick one of those three and you'll be

fine but like I said some hold more

humidity than others which reminds me

that Aspen does not hold really any

humidity in my experience when Aspen

gets wet it just gets gross after a

while you can start developing some mold

or change color so I only use this in my

driest

making closures that I never spray next

up is lighting now if you ask me every

animal needs a very clear day and night

light cycle basically they know when

it's daytime and they know it's a light

time night light time they know and it's

nighttime this is not very hard there's

a lot of ways to do it

corn snakes do not need very specific

lighting or any lighting at all but just

natural window light or well in this

case studio lights but window light or

the light in your room that works fine

as long as your animal can see hey it's

daytime now and hey it's nighttime now

so that it's not confused and it

actually knows what time it is well they

don't know the exact time but you get it

UVB however is another option that you

might want to use depending on your

snake you can see it right there in my

box turtle and on a few other enclosures

here UVB is ultraviolet B lighting and

it's something that naturally comes from

the Sun now corn snakes are crepuscular

meaning that they're not nocturnal and

they're not diurnal but instead they're

active during dawn and dusk now you can

go out during a sunset or sunrise and

measure the UVB levels and there's

really not much at all this means that

corn snakes do not actually need evb but

it can possibly benefit them lots of

people have seen very positive changes

on their animal when you've hit B us on

it but the second debate comes in when

I'm dealing with albino corn snakes

albinism means that their skin and their

eyes are going to be much more sensitive

to light

especially ultraviolet rays which means

that you might want to avoid UVB but we

don't really know yet so what I would

suggest is if you have an albino corn

snake hold off on the UVB for now until

we know more about it since we know that

they don't need it but it might actually

harm me albino species or albino morphs

if you just have a normal morph or a non

albino morph you can slap some UVB on if

you want but you don't have to also a

side note I suggest that you do not use

any lights at night those only the other

nice things about heat maps versus heat

bulbs is you can heat the enclosure at

night no problem but the nighttime bulbs

really bug me a lot of people think that

they cannot see this light when in

reality it's possible they don't see the

color but they still see the light

perfectly fine so I really don't like

this bright red

balls marked as nighttime bulbs because

they are not very dim now there are I

think it's called the moon light bulb

it's kind of like a dark purple leash

and the color doesn't actually make any

effect but it's a lot dimmer so I might

be comfortable using this if I really

had to but because things like moonlight

are natural but moonlight lets off

almost no light so I would suggest

taking all the lights off of your

enclosure at night I'm not taking them

off just turning them off and then if

you need more nighttime heating use

something like a heat mat or ceramic

bulb finally we've got feeding corn

snakes are super easy to feed this is

one of the awesome things about them as

to why they are also great for beginners

is because firstly the size of the food

is very easy to manage this is a

full-grown corn snake goby here he's

actually a little chubbier than the

average corn snake may be I don't know

he's fine though but even at his size he

can eat mice his entire life I've used I

was feeding him jumbo mice I switched

him back to adult mice just so that he

doesn't get fat but starting at pinky

mice as a baby and then going through

fuzzy hopper adult and jumbo that will

work their entire life meanwhile

something like a ball python or two ball

pythons they basically always have to be

switched to rats because rats grow

larger and mice just end up too small

for them so that's one of the first

great things remember to always speed

frozen mice if you can when you buy a

corn snake I suggest you ask the person

selling it what they are eating already

so you know exactly what they have been

eating so you don't have to deal with

switching them from from life to prison

now if there's just this a corn sync

that you really want and it's eating

live that's not the end of the world you

can feed it live until you can get it to

switch over to frozen and it won't like

you'll probably have success with it

it's just something to keep in mind I

did a video on live versus frozen but I

can talk about that more later I also

highly suggest you do not buy these from

pet stores because they're usually a lot

more expensive I'm talking about Petco

and Petsmart mostly you really shouldn't

buy anything here I did plenty of videos

on them in the past but anyway if you

order you mice online or go to expose

and get them in large bulk amounts

they're gonna be way cheaper you can

feed your snake for like 50 cents to $1

a week compared to like three to five

dollars if you go to Petco and get them

now to thaw out the mice there's a

handful of ways to do it since you're

buying them frozen you can just leave it

out on a table until it's room

temperature it's ideal though if you

heat them up a little bit past room

temperature so that it's more like a

living thing which is going to be warmer

what I like to do is stick on my mice

and a plastic bag put the plastic bag in

a container of warm or hot water not

boiling and then once they're warm just

take them out and feed them off I like

to do it in a plastic bag because you

don't wash the scent off of the mouse so

there's a higher chance that the snake

I'll take it every single week but you

can also do things like I've set the

mouse on a heat mat before this works

but you have to keep a super close eye

on it because as soon as this mouse

starts burning or cooking one you do not

want to feed it to your snake and two it

is one of the most disgusting things

I've ever smelled so yes you could put

it on the heat mat or under a heat lamp

but be very careful please just it's not

the ideal way to do it also don't

microwave them don't cook them what else

people asked yeah that's about it just

put them in some hot water and you're

good to go now figuring out what size

mouse to feed your snake there's a

handful of ways to do it some people do

it based on weight for example for ball

pythons you want to feed them I believe

is 10 to 15 percent of their body weight

each week corn snakes I don't actually

know if it's the exact same because I

don't go by this I simply look at the

girth of their size right here then take

that girth and find a mouse that's just

about the same maybe a little bit larger

it's okay if this is tiny bit smaller

but trying to estimate it just based on

that if you do that size then once a

week should be just fine once the corn

snakes an adult you might want to do it

a little less frequently like goobie

could probably go to every ten days

instead of every week maybe even every

two weeks but I don't want to push it so

yeah just about once every five to ten

days usually once every seven days it's

just fine for them but wait where should

you feed your horn snake in the

enclosure or outside and some other tub

please feed it in the enclosure cage

aggression is something

people talk about a lot it has yet to be

proven it's been a myth for a while but

everyone still feeds the snakes under

the enclosure and it really annoys me it

causes more problems than positive

things this is something however that I

went much more in depth in another old

video but all the information is still

up to date and just fine so you can go

watch that and then feeding the snake I

like to use snake tongs which I have

linked in the kit you can just only use

kitchen tongs as long as you don't use

the tongs again for your dinner just

hold the mouse generally by its tail or

by its body give it a little wiggle in

front of the corn snake and snake should

bite it try not to pull away you can

kind of tug it it a little bit once the

snake is bit just to kind of convince it

that the mouse is alive and struggling

this kind of just helps the corn snake

get a nice grip see it won't let go but

if you yank them out away there is a

very slight chance that you're gonna rip

a tooth out of your corn snake this is

very rare it's very easy not to yank

away like just keep your hand in one

place and you're good to go just thought

I'd mention it so that our animals can

keep their teeth and then handling your

snake after feeding you're gonna get

very mixed answers on this I always do a

minimum of 24 hours now technically some

of my animals I could hold like 3 hours

after they eat they would not care

they'd be perfectly fine there's no

reason to do this though so I still

don't but meanwhile some of my other

animals need like 2 days to digest if

it's a big meal and they're a bit on the

like scared side so the Ranger here is

from 24 to 72 hours you could save that

48 is a nice in-between this stove

sometimes feels kind of long to me so I

say 24 to 48 hours after eating is good

enough and then you can start handling

your animal again again the more you get

to know your snake the better you'll be

able to actually gauge just how long you

need to wait if you do not wait for

example if you fed your snake then 30

minutes later took it out to play with

it it might regurgitated

because they really can't defend

themselves with a huge mouse inside them

are eager saving the animal is not only

a big waste of a rodent but at the same

time it's very demanding on their body

to vomit it up finally I think our

said finally but finally again is the

water you can't just use tap water with

your animal it works perfectly fine

however there's going to be chlorine and

chloramine and usually ammonia in this

water the rate easiest thing you can do

is just add some zoo Med rep the safe

reptile drops I've been using it for a

few years now it's immediate it works

it's very easy there are other

techniques I actually did a whole video

talking about all different types of

water

the short answer for example well water

as long as you don't add anything to

this water then it should be fine but

there are certain chemicals that are

stronger on animals like reptiles

compared to humans so that's just about

everything when it comes to corn snake

husbandry hopefully this wasn't too long

hopefully everything made sense if you

have questions you can direct message me

on Instagram but there's a lot of

messages so I cannot promise I can get

back to you the best thing you can do is

join our discord server which is linked

below order the Facebook group which is

also linked below and the community can

help you with any concerns hopefully in

a very respectful manner but yeah owning

corn snakes are very rewarding very easy

and a great way to either get into the

hobby of keeping reptiles or a great way

to just have one pet if you don't want

anymore in the future and if you already

have 40 other animals then adding a corn

snake is not going to be a like a regret

of yours so you should enjoy them again

go to go herping Comstock corn snakes to

find a ton of other resources you can

see everything I used for this in the

description and lots of other videos all

over the channel but that is it for this

complete course snake care guide that

was a lot of talking but that should be

it

so I'm Alex and thanks for watching

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