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How to Install Lead Roof Flashings - Easy fit roof flashing DIY



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hello again in this video I'm going to

take you through the steps of installing

your own roof flashings these apron

Flushing's are probably the most used

type of flashing in roofing and can be

utilized in amongst other places tile

grooves slate roofs flat roofs

conservatories and lean tubes and a

whole host of other situations I will

also be showing you how to rake out the

mortar from brickwork if you're doing a

brand new install of lead flashings or

how to remove old lead flashing and fit

brand new flashings as a full

replacement firstly if you're fitting

flashing where there aren't any

currently you will need to remove the

mortar on a brickwork course ideally at

a height of 150 millimetres or 6 inches

above the roof although in areas that

are not exposed to high volume of direct

weather this can be reduced to 75

millimetres or 3 inches if you're

chasing out a mortar course you will

need a small angle grinder fitted with a

diamond-tipped mortar raking disk here I

have removed the safety guard and dust

extraction so you can see the process

clearly this is for the benefit of the

video do not do this yourself and always

wear eye protection and a dust mask now

it's just a matter of removing all the

required mortar from the entire run of

your flashings now I know some people

recommend raking out the mortar to a

depth of 25 millimetres or more but in

my experience this can weaken the

strength of the bricks especially above

lintels or around windows personally I

aim for a depth of around 15 to 20

millimetres and I've had no problems

with this if you're removing old lead

flashings as I am in this case I find

picking out the loose mortar by getting

behind it with an old slotted

screwdriver can be very effective dust

free method this will also allow you to

leave route any stubborn lead shocks

that may be stuck inside the chaise

once your chaise is cleared of mortar

and shocks

really does the chase to remove any last

bits of debris or dust now it's time to

measure the size of your lead flashings

which in this case will be three

measurements one the chase depth to the

drop of the wool flashing and three the

overlap onto the roof below if you're

creating a simple over flashing onto a

flat roof up stand like this one no

overlap onto the roof is necessary so

you don't have to bother with the third

overlap measurement in this example

there are three measurements to think of

chase depth and wool drop are easy to

measure previously that overlap onto the

tile was too short at 75 millimeters the

recommended overlap is 150 millimetres

or 6 inches onto a roof but here I will

be installing an overlap of about 125

millimetres or five inches this is

simply because aesthetically it will

look nicer on these small plain tiles

and combined with the steep roof and

sheltered location there's no chance of

rain driving underneath the Flushing's

to cause a leak later on next on the

floor are simply cut a section of milled

lead around 1.2 meters or 4 feet in

length much longer than this and the

expansion and contraction in a long

piece of lead can cause it to split

prematurely and ruin the Flushing's in

later life ok so now we've got the lead

cut to length let's bend it into shape

now if you've got LED dressing tools you

can use them but I'm going to show you

how to do it without any specialist

tools at all after tapping the lid nice

and flat with a piece of timber we can

set the depth of the leg into the chase

simply position the lead over a sharp

angle of some sort

here I'm using a straight piece of

roofing button and the lead is

protruding over the edge by the amount

of chase depth that I'll require its

then just a matter of working up and

down with a standard claw hammer another

technique is to trap the lead between

two straight roofing buttons and use a

small op quart of button as a makeshift

dresser when you're happy with the

result

fold the led by hand at the desired drop

an overlap point again nothing more

technical than a roofing button is

needed and there you go done

just before I start fitting the flashing

that I've just bent into shape noticed

I've made some ledge straps which are

fixed into the nail holes of the tiles

this is an important step that

unfortunately gets missed out here I've

spaced two straps to every 1.2 meter

length of flashing and their purpose in

this case is to stop gravity pulling on

the LED flashings over the years and

putting excess force on the fixings that

we'll be using later on another function

is to stop wind lifts in exposed areas

when you could even upgrade to a

stainless steel strapping as a bonus

they also hold down the Flushing's in

place like this so you can adjust the

lead without worry of it slipping or

falling off the roof when fitting your

LED Flushing's always try to fit the

flashing away from the line of sight

here I'll be starting on the left and I

will be adding them sequential er like

this this just ensures that when a

visitor or your customer approaches from

for instance the street or an entrance

that no visible overlaps in the lead can

be seen with the naked eye it's just a

way of making the finished job as neat

as possible

now I've fitted the second LED flashing

and dropped it into place overlap the

LED sections a minimum of 100

millimeters or four inches next we can

hammer in some fixings into the chase to

trap the LED work between the two phases

of the brick the traditional way is to

use LED shocks made from rolled up scrap

LED caught yourself a strip of lead like

this roll it up so it's slightly bigger

than the gap you will be hammering it

into and strike one edge of it to create

a slight wedge shape like this it

doesn't matter if you hammer them in

end-on or width ways as long as you get

the size right the job will be the same

and this is how to drive them in

repeat this process about every 450

millimeters or 18 inches or so so that

the entire length of the Flushing's are

fully fixed and if you're on a very long

run of lead Flushing's try securing them

with whole clips or LED flashing clips

instead these are machine made and

obviously a lot quicker to fix and can

save considerable time on a very long

run next beat your new LED flashing flat

to the wall and tiles this can be done

by hammering the legwork gently with a

small off quart of roofing batten or

timber if you don't have any LED

dressing tools it's basically just a

matter of not leaving hammerhead impacts

in the face of your nice new LED work

now fold over cut and tap down the ledge

straps that you've fixed earlier on any

joins in the LED that do not coincide

with a strap you can mark and cut the

lead like this this helps to stop wind

lift alternatively you can combine a

ledge strap and the overlap and kill two

birds with one stone if your roof has

edges like this one the lead work must

proceed further than the end of the roof

the angle is then cut into the lead and

the remaining lead simply beaten over

the verge of the roof here it just wraps

around and grabs the underneath of the

tiles

this led beating can be done again with

a LED dressing tool all if you haven't

got one with the bottom of a hammer and

again if you have profile tiles like

these the very base of the handle of a

hammer is a good alternative to LED

dressing tools if you don't have them a

few light taps on the leading edges and

this will make for a very neat job we're

now ready to point up the chase with

mortar or seal it with the lead chase

sealing product if you prefer

at this stage I like to gently tap down

the lead work with the end of a bowl

stop I found that not only does it

firmly position the lead onto the

brickwork surface but also the light

indentations made in the top surface of

the lead help to provide a key for the

mortar to bond to this will help stop

the mortar from losing its grip on the

lead in future years and falling down

the roof

next comes the pointing up and apart

from anything else this can be the

number one cause of the leak if you get

this wrong make sure that you get the

mortar all the way back inside the chase

so often the pointing isn't pushed in

all the way back resulting in the loose

and leaking mortar here you can see I

try to do this as a two-stage process my

first run gets the mortar all the way

back in and the second fills and

finishes the joint

when you've finished simply wipe off

anything that you've got on the face of

the lead with the rag or the back of a

glove finally finish the flashings by

carefully rubbing platen ocean oil into

the lead to stop the white streaking or

carbonization that can ruin the look of

the Flushing's well that's the basics of

how to install your own lead flashings

look out for my other guides to follow

shortly on step flashing to roof tiles

and step flashing for slates I hope this

video has helped in some way thanks for

watching