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knittingthestash Sleeve Cap Tutorial



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everyone I'm Melissa from knitting the

stache and this is a quick tutorial

about sleeve caps you can see right now

I'm wearing my real modest wetter but it

only has one sleeve and I thought this

might be a great opportunity to give you

guys a quick demo on how I do

modification on a lot of government's

and do sleeve caps and knit them from

the top down so in this video I will

talk up a little bit about why I use

that technique and then I'll jump right

in and show you how I'm gonna do it on

the sweater including some stitch counts

and some percentages and ideas like that

so let's get this started

before jumping into the actual technique

I want to take a moment to say that top

down short row sleeve caps are not right

for every garment and if you're going to

modify a garment that a designer has

specifically requested or Specht out set

in sleeve you got to think a little bit

about it because they may be they may be

designing a permit with a sentence like

for a reason if the garment is knit out

of say cotton or linen maybe even

superwash yarn rel pakka something

that's gonna require a little more

stability around the shoulders so that

it doesn't just stretch and kind of

drape everywhere you might want to stick

with whatever the designer intended

which may very well be a set in sleeve

those seams will give you so much

structure but if you're working with a

sweater that you think can handle a

little bit of drape you like the look of

the sudden sleeve and you think it'll

kind of fit with the design then go for

it

and what we're gonna do right now is get

into some of the percentages and the

actual knitting so let's go so let's

take a look at some of the numbers first

this is a basic armhole design here

right just pretend it's a circle this

would be your armpit down here this

would be your top of your shoulder up

here and what we're gonna look at is how

many stitches to pick up and where to

place our markers for our short rows now

very basically German short rows are

going to have you knit back and forth

you're gonna start if you're admitting

all the way around in this direction

you're going to knit to wherever your

marker is you're going to turn around

and knit back and then you're gonna knit

back picking up an extra stitch and back

picking up an extra stitch so basically

you're creating this elongated

fabric right here all of this and that

is going to be your sleeve cap and

you're accomplishing that by knitting

back and forth so let's talk a little

bit about the numbers and how we're

gonna place our markers for this

particular sleeve I'm looking at the

gauge that I've used and I'm thinking

about also what the designers

expectations are the designers

expectations are that this sleeve is

going to be knit from the bottom up and

it's going to be a traditional sleeve

cap design something like this right so

what I can look at is what the designers

expectations are for the number of

stitches at the top of the sleeve her

expectations are that it's going to be

somewhere in the high 50s so I've

assumed about 58 stitches as my total

number that I'm gonna pick up and I know

im using my us six needles which is what

I've been using on the rest of the

pattern and I know that I'm gonna be

doing German short rows as I just

explained to you so the basic principle

is that and this is something that I

learned from doing a bunch of different

patterns like this most recently Isabel

Kramer's alias pattern the principle

seems to be about a fifth of your total

number of stitches should be at the top

here for the beginning of your short

rows so if I have 58 stitches total if I

take a fifth of that that's gonna be 12

stitches and that's nice and easy to

divide into six and six so this is my

top of shoulder and so I'll make sure

that I have six stitches here and six

stitches here before I place my markers

now when you're and when you're picking

up a knitting stitches you are very

likely starting down here at the armpit

so here's what you're going to do at the

beginning of your round you're going to

pick up your stitches in your armpit and

you're going to think to yourself okay

I've got 12 up here that means that I

have 46 stitches left I'm gonna divide

46 and a half which is going to be 23 so

I'm gonna have 23 stitches from here to

here and 23 stitches from here to here

roughly I mean we all know that a stitch

there it'll be okay so if you pick up

your stitches you don't want to think

about where you're gonna want to end

your short rows that I think is a little

bit more up to you but I'm gonna put

eight stitches down here you could

probably very comfortably put anywhere

between four to eight stitches down here

in your armpit I'm gonna pick up four

along the very bottom of my armpit and

that means that I'm gonna pick up the 19

over here I'm gonna place a marker pick

up another six pick up another six place

a marker and then I'm gonna at 19 and or

pick up 19 and pick up four now in this

particular pattern I'm dealing with a

garter stitch in the flat and I'm

switching to a garter stitch in the

round so you have to make sure that you

if you're gonna pick up these stitches

in the knit the first time around you

get a then I've got a purl my first row

that's not necessarily what's gonna

happen with all the patterns that you do

short row sleeve caps would that's just

in particular to my bird my pattern so

I'm gonna have picked up all these

stitches and knit wise then I'm gonna

purl one row because that's going to

produce the Garter effect that I need

since I'm working in the round if you

were doing a stockinette stitch you

would just knit the next round just to

secure all the stitches then I'm gonna

knit up to my first my second marker

here we'll call this marker number two

we'll call this with marker number one

I'm gonna need all the way to marker

number two and I'm going to turn my work

using a German short row knit back

across these twelve stitches to this

marker turn my work using a German short

row and then I'm gonna knit back to this

first German short row which will be a

double stitch that's how a German short

rows they look like two stitches kind of

sitting together and I'm gonna knit past

that stitch and knit another stitch

because as I said here you're kind of

constantly working to make this sleeve

kept longer and longer so it's going to

extend here extend here extend here

extend here all the way down to these

final stitches and you can put markers

down here if you want to

if that helps you keep track you can

call them a and B three and four

whatever you want okay that's the basic

technique first things first let me show

you the sieve cap I've already knitted

now you'll see up here this is that

upper portion of the sweater where I'm

set up my six stitches on either side

and this is all the way down to the

armpit and this section here is my

sleeve cap so you can see I've created a

lot of extra fabric here then once I've

created my sleeve cap I can just knit my

sleeve all the way down in the round

alright so let's take a look at the

other side so on the other side what I

have is an open armhole and as promised

what I'm gonna do is pick up stitches

from starting in the this will be my

beginning of round in the armpit picking

up stitches here placing my first marker

here and I think picking up more

stitches another market here more

stitches until I've picked up all my

stitches knit wise then I'm gonna purl

one round and then I'm gonna knit to

this marker wrap and turn German Charro

back here to this marker wrap German to

a row and keep going until I create a

kind of effect that short row effect

where there's fabric kind of cup at the

top of your shoulder here

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okay so here we have all of the stitches

picked up and you can see down here I

have my beginning of round marker this

is the armpit of the sleeve and up here

and here I have my short row markers one

and two that I'll be using in just a

minute

and I've already pearled my first row

this is because it is a this particular

government is garter stitch garment so I

need to purl the first row because I'm

working in the round okay let me knit

around to those markers and I'll show

you what we do with our short rows q

fast forward okay so I'm approaching the

first marker and as you could see before

you I was the I'm using Magic Loop so I

need to keep moving my loops around but

as I approach the first marker I'm going

to knit right past it as if it's not

even there

slip that marker and keep going across

those 12 stitches at the very top okay

so I'm almost to my second marker now so

I'm gonna knit right up to it slip it

knit the next stitch and then I'm gonna

do my German churro so I'm gonna turn my

work I try to get it so you can still

see it in the camera here and then

because I'm working in garter stitch all

I have to do is knit back so I never

have to do a purl German row if I were

to do a German short row pearled stitch

I would just slip this stitch wrap the

yarn around like so and then continue

purling creating this double 2-legged

stitch here but since I'm just knitting

because I'm in garter stitch I'm gonna

slip that stitch slip the marker and

then I'm going to knit the next stitch

pulling this yarn tight and over top and

still creating that two-legged stitch

right here that will take care of on our

way back so now I'm gonna knit back over

to my marker that I skipped that first

time my first marker

okay I'm approaching that market I do

the same thing here slip it knit the

next stitch and turn my work around and

this time once again the yarn is still

in front and because I'm doing a garter

stitch I'm going to slip that first

stitch and the marker and then I'm gonna

knit pulling this up and over to create

that double leg again right there that

I'll deal with on the way back and as I

get back to that other marker I'm going

to show you how you deal with those the

nice thing about German short rows is

that they leave as far as I'm concerned

very little holes I sometimes find wrap

and turn if you're not really careful

you can leave little holes in your work

but German churros do not do that okay

we're just about at the marker so we're

gonna slip our marker and there's our

double stitch just sitting there hanging

out and we're gonna knit two legs

together knit another stitch turn our

work and the same process continues slip

that stitch knit that stitch just slip

that marker and go all the way back

across to your other marker and you just

keep going creating a nice cap on the

sleeve so I'm gonna finish this up and

I'll show you what the cap looks like

before I go on to the next step

there's another one of those doubles and

them together knit the next stitch and

turn my work and keep going and I'll see

you back here once I have a sleep gap so

I've made my last turn here and as you

can see I have one wrap German double

stitch over here four stitches here and

four stitches here this is my beginning

of round marker so I've turned it one

final time and all I'm gonna do now is

knit around and any time I encounter

with those double stitches from the

German short rows

I'll just knit both legs together so the

first time though we're gonna because we

did turn gonna slip and continue on and

I will fast forward you to the so I'm

coming up on my last double stitch which

is right here and I'm just gonna show

you how I work it I'm gonna go up

through both legs you see that there let

it go and then just keep instead of

turning like I did last like I have been

I'm gonna just keep knitting straight

around through my beginning of round

marker which is right here and I'm gonna

grab my last final double stitch from

that that turn I made a moment ago and

it is right here this guy do the same

thing knit through both legs and there

we have it now this sleeve cap is ready

for me to just knit around and around

and around and I've left my stitch

markers and you don't need to do that

but I've left them in so that you can

see what's going on so here's my

shoulder seam hold it up this way

those are jumping around here's my

shoulder seam and there's my sleeve cap

so we started out with this hole that

went all the way around here and we've

created this little kind of cone of

fabric see that and you can see these

are our original two markers which were

twelve stitches apart and there's still

12 stitches apart but you can see that

from that original 12 stitches we've

created this entire cap for the sleeve

and I think it's one of the reasons I

really loved your Ventura's is that you

cannot see those wraps and those turns

like it's there are no wraps you can't

see those turns are those double

stitches anywhere and there aren't any

holes so it's just a nice looking sleeve

cap so there you have it

so I'm Melissa from knitting the stash

and this has been a quick tutorial on

sleeve caps and by the end of the video

I'm happy to say I have a sleeve cap on

his sweater so I'm going to keep

knitting down to the cuff and use a few

well-placed decreases to make it all

work out if you're interested in other

tutorial videos including knitting math

how to figure out how many stitches to

pick up how to modify patterns all that

kind of stuff I have a bunch of videos

up on YouTube you can find me just about

every whereas knitting stash and I do

run a podcast twice a month where I talk

about garment design modifications and

lots of other fun stuff so you can join

me there in the meantime thanks for

hanging out for this tutorial and hope

you find it helpful let me know if there

any questions you could leave them below

and I try to answer them as soon as as

possible take care

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