Make a Table Top How-To

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everyone welcome to Samuel carpentry my

name is Scott Schaefer and today we're

going to be gluing up some 2-inch mil to

Aspen into tabletops and then what I'm

going to do instead of turning it into a

tabletop I'm going to use it to make

barstool tops so we're going to learn

two things today high glue up a tabletop

and how to make a barstool top big cool

let's get started

tools you're going to need for this

project dart a straight edge rubber

mallet biscuits pencil compass glue tape

measure jigsaw biscuit cutter chop saw

pipe clamps side clamps disk sander

drill with 1/8 bit and the 15 sixteenth

paddle bit and sander and not pictured

here a jointer and a table saw first

step is cutting your lumber to length

begin by squaring the end of the board

cut enough off to get rid of any cracks

I want to get four thirteen inch wide

stool tops out of this so I'm going to

cut each board 27 inches long we're

going to repeat this step until I have

enough of them to make the tabletop 27

inches wide

my milled lumber has natural edges and I

need straight edges so I'm going to pull

out the table saw to cut the first edge

I use my level to draw a straight line

on the board since I can't use the fence

be sure you're wearing all your safety

gear to keep your fingers away from the

blade since we eyeballed our first cut

we need to use the jointer to flatten

and smooth the edge keep downward

pressure behind or to the left of the

blade when joining your boards back at

the table saw we're going to cut our

second edge this time we get to use the

fence we want to use as much of the

board as possible

so we'll start by finding the narrowest

point in the board and we'll set our

fence to that way and watch your fingers

and wear all your safety gear so you can

focus on what you're doing

before we head back to the jointer you

want to make sure that we have enough

boards to get our desired width in my

case it's 27 inches and I have 28

remember we're going to lose some of

that when we run the boards through the

jointer again so give yourself a little

extra I'm also going to number my boards

to keep them in order it's difficult to

get the fence on the jointer perfectly

perpendicular to the platform so I'm

going to run the odd-numbered boards

through with the number facing me and

the even numbered boards with the

numbers facing away from me that way if

the fences are off a little bit they'll

cancel each other out using the compass

we're going to draw our circles we're

doing this before we glue it up because

we want to make sure our biscuits are

not exposed on the edges of the seats if

you make a mistake when drawing your

circles or lines just use a sander to

erase the pencil marks after my circles

are drawn I'll drop my lines where I

want to cut the grooves for the biscuits

if you're just gluing up a table top two

or three biscuits per seam will suffice

next we're going to use the biscuit

cutter to cut our grooves make sure your

line on the board is matched with the

line on the cutter and keep lots of

pressure on the cutter to make sure it

doesn't shift during the cut

now it's time to glue it up I like to

use a ketchup bottle to apply my glue

since I buy it by the gallon and then

use a small brush to spread it don't be

afraid to use plenty of glue because if

there are any gaps

it'll fill them in when adding a board

be sure the lines you drew on line up

install your pipe clamps near the edges

of the tabletop and slightly tighten


put your side clamps on to make sure the

tabletop doesn't blow out then tighten

your pipe clamps as tight as possible if

blue drips out from the seams wipe it

off with your finger or a rag dried

clumps of glue are very difficult to

sand out

I let it sit for several hours to dry

once dry remove the claims using a

four-inch blade on your jigsaw cut out

the circles and take your time to make

sure you follow the line now we're going

to use the disk sander to smooth the

very rough edges don't stay in one place

for too long or you'll lose your circle

next you'll round the top edge

using 80 grit sandpaper will sand the

bottom first well saying that just

enough that it won't feel rough to the

touch then flip it over and sand the

edges you'll need lots of light to make

sure you get all the cut marks out then

sand the rounded edge and finally top

now we'll drill holes for the bolts that

attach the legs since I build a lot of

these tools I have a pattern that I use

initially I just want to score the one

with the bit while using the pattern

then I'll drill all the way through and

finally the last step in the whole

process I'm going to use my 15 sixteenth

paddle bit on the top side of the seat

to drill my countersink for the bolts I

want to drill it just deep enough for

the head of the bolt and at least a half

inch of plug on top of it hey guys well

that's the show here's your final

product here obviously I'll be plugging

these once I get the bolts in to drive

the the legs on and that's your seat top

and this is your tabletop so if you'd

want it without the hole in it obviously

you cannot you can leave natural edges

on here if you want to you know cut this

smooth there's all sorts of different

directions that you can go once you have

this glued up but I just wanted to show

you how to glue it up please check out

my website sandal and carpentry comm

there's pictures and merchandise and

videos on there plus if you go to log

furniture how to calm there are a lot

more do-it-yourself projects available

for you there there's blueprints to

download there's videos you can download

long really long videos it's a really

cool site it's kind of like a hub for

log furniture I'm on a part of that as

well as some other builders so you're

going to get a more well-rounded

perspective on the industry so it's a

great place to be that's log furniture

how to calm again my website is San Juan


komm thank you for watching please

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