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- [Narrator] http://www.plumberparts.co.uk.
Honest reviews and advice.
- Hi, and welcome to part one
of this http://www.plumberparts.co.uk video.
In part one today, I'm going to show you how to fit
a Bristan artisan bar shower mixer.
They're a pretty common type.
There's loads of other different makes
of bar shower out there but if you want to buy one of these,
just click to the link below.
In the second video, I'm going to show you
how to actually fit the shower head and riser rail
nice and straight and neatly so it looks absolutely amazing.
So let's get going and have a wicked time.
So first things first, looking at the bar mixer itself,
you've got your temperature control at this end.
These are thermostatic shower mixers, so what they have is
a probe on the inside that mixes the water
automatically for you, according to the temperature
that you want on the adjustment.
The good thing about this particular make of shower is
if the thermostatic control goes wrong,
you can take this end off, whip out the thermostatic control
and put a new one in.
And Bristan are usually really good about
sending new ones out.
Looking at the bar mixer itself,
you've got to take into account that you've got a cold
and a hot coming into it.
So make sure you get them the right way around.
Fortunately, we've already our pipes come through.
So they're roughly about the same width away.
This particular shower has 1500 centres.
They're all pretty much the same.
Most bar shower mixers are 1500 centres, but always check.
So before we start, we've got to turn the hot and cold
off to the system, drain it all down,
and make sure it's all turned off.
Next, just take five minutes to study the instructions
and find out how these actually work.
These are special wall brackets
for this particular type of valve.
And as I said, most other manufacturers
do use this method as well, so it could help you out.
Basically it is a wall plate that is also
an integral compression fitting that will create
a water-tight seal.
What happens is, is your pipe sticks out of the wall,
goes through this fitting here.
Then your two screws screw that to the wall.
You usually want to cut your pipe off so it's about
so far out, so about a centimetre sticking out.
You have an olive that slips over that and goes in there.
And then you have the other part of the compression fitting
that you tighten up on there.
You can see you've got some flats on there to tighten it up.
Then the shower valve itself will actually connect
to that part there and tighten up.
So let's have a look at how we do it.
The first thing I always try to do is
make sure that the pipes you've got
have still got a bit of move and play in them.
So if they're not exactly 1500 centres,
you can wiggle them about so they are.
Fortunately these are already.
Now the next thing I'd do, is just measure your 1500 across
and just mark that just above where the pipe comes out.
Now you know exactly where your 1500s are.
Next, push each one of these clamps on
so they're fully home and against the wall.
Next, put a small strobe level on.
Get each clamp on so it's level, and then mark the holes.
Once you've got your holes marked, you can drill the holes
for the screws to go through that clamp,
and then clamp the clamp up.
We're lucky here because the tiling here has been
put onto a nice bit of hard wood.
So we can just go through the tile
and then screw into the hard wood itself.
You might not be so lucky.
You might have a cavity wall,
in which case you're going to need cavity plugs
or something like that.
Always look for an installation like this.
Try to make sure that you know where the water pipes are
so you don't drill into them.
(drilling)
All right, what I usually do now is
just get some silicon, and fill that little hole up a bit.
Just in case you have any water go down there,
it can't escape into the back cavity of the tiles
and one day pull all the tiles off.
So now, push up the actual clamp itself onto the pipe.
And then push that up to your holes.
And then screw two screws in there to clamp it in place.
(drilling)
Excellent bond there.
And do that to the other side.
Now I always find the best way to do this bit is,
to slide your olive on,
and slide your other half of the compression on.
And then tighten it up a little way.
Get yourself a pencil and just mark
as far down inside the pipe as you can
and that'll be where you cut the pipe off.
You wouldn't have to do this in copper
but because it's a plastic part,
we have to put the inserts in.
So make sure you've got the taper in going in, first.
So that'll push down on the olive.
Screw it on, just with your hands.
Then, I always recommend getting a big pair of grips.
Use your grips to grab the wall clamp,
so you don't put undue strain on it.
Just give it a few nips up but not too tight.
(creaking)
Do that to the other side,
and afterwards we can put the decorative cover over the top.
Get yourself your decorative cover
which has got a small thread just down the inside.
Pop that around that.
(metal twisting)
Now you'll find two washers with a small gauze on them.
Get them out.
They need to be inserted in each one of these inlets.
Now we are ready to actually attach
the whole shower bar valve to our two wall clamps.
As you can see, they're well lined up.
But these can take a little bit of time.
So just give it your best shot.
I'd always run one on slightly loose.
And the other one after like that.
Because I do have trouble lining up these two sometimes.
There you go.
Once you've got it on and running.
That's fully connected up.
Then just lightly give it some rubber.
Just nip 'er up. Just like one turn like that.
That should seal it nicely,
and if it doesn't, you've still got plenty of travel
on your adjusters to give them another nip up.
Now that's all been successfully installed,
get yourself your shower hose.
Make sure you don't lose the two washers that come with it.
Then attach that to the bottom outlet.
The bit with the rubber, that's longer, is the bit
that goes to the shower head.
Because that bit will actually clamp
into the shower head holder later on.
So you just get your shower hose end,
pop your rubber washer in there like that.
Undo the cap at the bottom.
Take the bottom cap off and then screw that piece on.
You only need to do this bit hand tight.
Same with the new shower head. Just take the cap off.
Pop your rubber washer in there.
And then attach your shower head on like so.
Beautiful!
So there you go, that's how you fit a shower bar valve.
Now all you have to do is turn the water back on
and test for leaks.
If you find you've got any leaks or anything like that,
turn all the water back off, remove the bar shower valve,
tighten up or seal the joints that you think are leaking.
(water running)
Make sure there are no leaks.
Lovely!
I hope you found today's video helpful.
I hope we've covered everything that you need to know
about how to fit one of these bar showers.
And as I said, if you want to buy one of the ones
that we've fitted today, just click on the link below.
I hope that you're going to come back.
I hope you give us some love on Twitter, on Facebook.
If you need any help, or any questions,
go to our channel and ask us.
And as ever, visit our website,
http://www.plumberparts.co.uk.
I hope to see you in the next video,
where I'll be showing you how to hang the shower rail
and do it all nice and straight
and make it look amazingly sexy.
I'll see you all later. Hold tight!
- [Narrator] Http://www.plumberparts.co.uk.
Honest reviews and advice.
