hey what's up guys welcome back to the
shop my name is Gary and on this video
we are going to be taking a look at how
to drill large holes in thick steel
we've got some 1 inch thick by 4 inches
wide flat stock that we've cut up into 2
small pieces and we're using that as as
part of another project as you can see
here and if you're watching this
sometime in the future I'll link a video
to the to the project that this actually
is being built for but focus of this
video is kind of walk you through three
different methods to get a large hole
punch through thick steel so we're going
to take a look at an annular cutter
we're going to take a look at a one and
a half inch or one and five-eighths inch
twist drill and then we're going to look
take a look at using a regular hole saw
and we're going to time each one of them
and try to keep it as fair as possible
and you'll see the length of time the
process used to that we're going to do
this so let's take a look and get
started alright so first up here we're
going to use this annular cutter and
this is the package that it came in I
got this off eBay I've had it for a
couple years it's been used a few times
I'd say maybe half dozen times but it's
still really sharp and in good shape and
these things last a long long time so I
think it could be considered to be you
know fresh tool or sharpen tool whatever
but so we'll go ahead and get this
chucked up and start the timer and come
back at the end and kind of give you a
summary of what worked good what doesn't
work good and go from there
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all right you saw we had no problem at
all pushing that through in one pass
just plunged it right through there the
one thing you'll notice is I use plenty
of lubrication you know just keep
dabbing the oil in there don't want to
run anything dry but the one of the
downside is is this nasty swarf it comes
off of it and sometimes you have to stop
and clean it out you know because it
just gets all tangled around it a lot of
times it'll it'll kind of self evacuate
but and then it leaves this slug at the
end here so you know you're not turning
the whole end completely into chips
you're producing this slug that yeah you
saw the timer there a minute and 52
seconds to get that through there which
is pretty good and you know really I
could have plunged it a little faster
you know I was trying to be gentle on
the tool but also you know be productive
and get it through there so all right
we'll take a look at the next tool
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all right well you saw we had no problem
using this method
in fact I for some reason I kind of like
using this method some people will say
well you don't need to run that many
different drills through it you might
get away with just running the 3/4 or
maybe start with a half inch you know
plunge a half inch hole through and then
step up to the one and a half I don't
know I just like I feel like it's easier
on your tooling to step up more
progressively you saw there that that
took the longest amount of time at seven
minute and one second the chips that it
produces are really easy to work with
they they pop out of there you can
vacuum them up easy with a shop vac
compared to the swarf that this thing
leaves you know it just is a lot easier
to clean up so the downside is making
all the changes you know between each of
the tooling having to re-check
everything up that's what it's costing
you the extra time here so all right
we'll step to the next one
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all right well as you saw we were able
to get that push through there and I
think that you know you definitely need
to take lotta cuts with this meaning you
can't push as hard with that you could
with the twisted ruler annular cutter
and I start with I was I was pushing a
little bit too hard on it and you can
see the slug that it produced there you
can see that the timing SiC the six
minutes roughly took to get it through a
little bit faster than the twist drill
method but not near as fast as annular
cutter and but the main issue with this
is that there's no chip evacuation and
you can see this little fine chip that
it produces and what it ends up doing is
just sort of you know regrinding its own
chips in there so you have to kind of
pull out blow it out with the air
especially as you get down in there
deeper you see the annular cutter has
the flutes on it and that allows you
know for that swarf to evacuate out of
there and makes it much more effective
and you can also see on the teeth just
the thickness of it but it worked you
know if you're doing this at home I
would I would say that the main issue
that you run into trying to put thick
metal big holes through thick metal at
home with a hole saw is just to be able
to turn your drill slow enough you know
you need 200 rpm for something like that
most of your conventional drill presses
that you buy Home Depot Lowe's those are
made for woodworking and probably have a
minimum of 800 rpm you know and I think
mr. Pete had a video on doing a VFD
conversion on a regular drill press you
can lower the RPMs but my experience
with VFDs on machines is that when you
try to use it to get a really low rpm
out of it you lose all the torque with
it and what you really need with this is
the torque so also Chucky's through 2009
did a video that he got a Powermatic
drill press from the texas gun guy and
did a restoration on it and it had
variable speed all the way down to super
low rpms and you know work extremely
well so I think picking up something
like that for a thousand bucks or
something in that range you know was a
good option over spending four or five
thousand for a mill so yeah
so that's it you saw the three methods
there just wanted to share this video
with you guys
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