How to drag Tune In Forza 4
Drag Tuning Guide | Forza Horizon 4
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hey everyone I'm hokey Hoshi and today
let's talk about drag racing now we're
gonna start this video by talking about
mods and car selection and then we'll
get into tuning and some driving tips
drag racing is built off an entirely
different rule set from the other racing
disciplines like rally or Street so
let's start by looking at what's
important in a drag car the car we're
gonna be looking at today is the Chevy
Nova Forza Edition which out of the box
is already a pretty good drag build so
the first thing you want to be looking
for in your build is the power-to-weight
ratio you can find this value by taking
the weight of your vehicle and dividing
it by its power now keep in mind I'm in
the US and your units might be different
but it still works as a valid reference
point to compare against other cars so
you can see that for this vehicle my
weight is two thousand seven hundred and
ninety-one pounds and I'm gonna be
dividing that by one thousand two
hundred and sixty one for the horsepower
this gives me a result of about two
point two which means that for every two
point two pounds my car weighs I get one
horsepower this is also where the
Koenigsegg one-to-one gets its name it
has one horsepower for every kilogram
that it weighs now while we're here
let's take a look at this dyno graph now
if you've already watched my gearing
video you should have a basic
understanding of what this graph shows
you but let's take a look at it again
because gearing is one of the most
important aspects of drag racing you can
see here that the horsepower which is
represented in orange peaks at just over
six thousand now for drag racing we
never want our gearing to shift to far
below that peak point and it's helpful
that it doesn't drop off sharply after
that either so keep that in mind when
you're trying to tune the gearing on
your own car and try to find a car with
a power band that stays near its peak
for a longer period of time now going
back to the power-to-weight ratio when
you're doing modifications to your car
always keep that in mind there are some
modifications that will add power but
also add a lot of weight and there are
other modifications like brakes that you
wouldn't think you need in drag but they
do reduce the weight of the car it can
sometimes be helpful to keep a
calculator around so that you can do the
math and see if your weight ratio is
going up which is bad or down which is
of
better another thing to keep in mind is
that even though it doesn't contribute
to your power-to-weight ratio
better shift times lead to better drag
times it's almost always worth it to
sacrifice a little bit of horsepower to
get better shift times and you might
want the race diff and the race
transmission as well to get those tuning
options unlocked for tires the obvious
choice is drag tires but if those aren't
available go with race and if your
vehicle is rear-wheel drive pick the
thinnest possible front tires and widest
possible rear but if it's
all-wheel-drive go with the widest tires
all the way around now for Aero I
generally recommend going with whatever
is the lightest for drag racing since it
doesn't involve very high speeds or high
speed cornering you're not gonna get a
lot of benefits from the Aero downforce
so again just go with whatever is the
lightest or whatever you think looks
best so that's a basic overview of what
you should look for in modifying your
cars but of course the real fun comes in
the tuning so let's talk about it like I
mentioned at the beginning of the video
drag involves an entirely different rule
set for tuning than most of the other
racing disciplines so take what you know
about tuning and basically just throw it
out the window for drag racing
unlike tuning with the other racing
disciplines which involves a lot of fine
tuning and delicate balance between too
much or too little of a setting drag
tuning involves a lot of extremes and
the tires are no exception you want to
set your tire pressure as low as
possible to whatever wheels are getting
power and generally as high as possible
to whatever wheels aren't this means
that on a rear-wheel drive vehicle set
your rear wheels to minimum pressure and
your front to maximum but on an all
wheel drive vehicle set them all to
minimum although this can sacrifice
higher end speed and acceleration it's
generally best to have the best launch
possible and sacrifice a little bit out
of the top and then it is the other way
around if you do notice though that the
car is burning out through higher gears
or just in general suffering through the
higher end you can turn up the pressure
a bit now for the gearing which like
I've mentioned before is essentially the
most important aspect of your drag build
so we're gonna actually save this until
we've got the rest of the car built
properly and then we'll come back to it
at the end so for alignment we're again
tuning for maximum straight-line grip
and this might be one of the only
where positive camber is beneficial your
front camber setting doesn't play a big
role in drag times but I would recommend
keeping it on the negative side if
anything and don't go to the extremes
here keep it between zero and negative
one the rear camber setting is where
things get a bit more interesting as
your suspension compresses negative
camber generally increases and for
straight line driving when you're either
launching or under hard acceleration
negative camber is bad because it
decreases your contact patch with the
road this is where adding in some
positive camber can be really helpful
for counteracting the negative camber
you get when your suspension compresses
I recommend opening up your telemetry
window and ensuring that your camber
remains around zero during launch and
under full acceleration now with camber
out of the way let's talk about toe I
recommend never really having any front
toe as it doesn't play much of a role in
drag racing but having a small amount of
rear toe in can sometimes help keep your
launches more stable and straight I
still recommend keeping this at zero to
start with but if you're having trouble
keeping the car straight during launches
you can add back that small amount of
toe in now caster is another setting
that doesn't really play much of a role
in drag racing but if anything I would
recommend maxing this out as it will
help a small amount with stability
anti-roll bars are another setting that
doesn't really play a large role in drag
racing but having a soft setting can
help a bit with launch grip and having a
stiff setting can help a bit with launch
stability now for Springs we're going
back to the extremes start by setting
both your front and rear suspension as
low as possible this allows the rear
suspension to squat and absorb some of
your power giving you higher grip during
launch and it means that your front
suspension won't be darting all over the
place and will be more stable and
consistent during the drag run it's
definitely possible that your rear
suspension setting will need to be
adjusted but we'll talk about that later
your front ride height comes more down
to personal preference than it does
actual performance I recommend it to be
lower but a lot of people recommend it
higher by adjusting this setting you're
changing how the car squats and how the
suspension compresses during launch so
find what setting best suits you your
rear setting however plays a much bigger
role in the car's performance I've been
talking a bit about the squat during
launch
and this is really where it all comes
down to you need to have a good bit of
suspension travel and a soft enough
suspension setting so that your car can
absorb the extra horsepower instead of
just spinning it through the tires this
allows you to get a much grippier launch
we might need to adjust this setting as
well later but again we'll get back to
that let's talk about damping your
damping settings don't play a huge role
in a drag setup but playing with the
rebound stiffness can adjust how much
your suspension pushes back during that
launch squat keep the bump stiffness
soft so that your car doesn't skirt over
any bumps and it just absorbs them
through the suspension downforce tuning
like I said earlier doesn't really play
much of a role in the common drag setup
but if you have the tuning option
unlocked keep it towards speed now brake
tuning can actually be one of the most
overlooked settings for increasing your
drag times now of course I'm kidding
you can skip over this one for the
tuning window if you're braking during a
drag run something has gone horribly
wrong now finally for the differential
your acceleration setting should be at
100% to ensure that equal torque is
applied to both the left and right
wheels your deceleration settings
shouldn't really make a difference
because you should never be decelerating
during a drag race but for the sake of
stability keep it towards 100% and that
just about does it for setting your base
tune let's get out onto the drag strip
and tune our gearing and adjust our rear
suspension settings if we need to I
strongly recommend testing your tunes
and an actual race versus in the open
world this reduces a lot of the
variables and gives you a consistent and
easily repeatable testing ground so just
after doing this first run our tune is
already well outperforming the stock
tune and there's more to go from here
let's first talk about the gearing we're
gonna slow things down and dissect the
run now you never want to shift towards
the end of your drag race and this car
was shifting into fifth in just about
the last second or so what I'm gonna do
is adjust the final drive to make my
gears longer this is gonna mean instead
of shifting into fifth I should be at
the top of 4th towards the end of my run
the next gear we're gonna look at is
first pay attention to my tach on the
right and you can see that my revs
bounce consistently a few times and then
they go up slower before I shift in a
second that slower rise in revs
an indicator that my wheels have gained
traction but I want them to gain
traction at a slightly lower rev point
so that I'm closer to my peak horsepower
not spinning my wheels quite as much and
have a more clear indicator of when I
should shift this is gonna mean that I
make my first gear a good bit longer now
second and third gears are a little bit
easier here I want to make sure that as
I shift up in gears my revs never
dropped too far below my peak horsepower
and as I go up in gears I want to start
at a higher rev range this is going to
mean shortening my second and third
gears but keep in mind that I want to
get close to but not max out fourth gear
by the end of my run now let's take a
look at a run with these gearing
adjustments made with this run you'll be
able to see that my launch is a lot
faster and my shifting indication is a
little bit smoother and by the end of my
run I'm just at the top of fourth but
I'll never shift into fifth so that's
just what we're looking for and we've
been rewarded by a much faster time just
remember that tuning still takes a ton
of trial and error you'll need to make
some small adjustments and rerun the
course over and over but as long as you
keep what I've said in mind you should
have some success now for the last part
of our video I said I'd go back to the
suspension settings so we're gonna open
the telemetry and take a look at how our
suspension reacts during our launch so
with our suspension telemetry open we
can see that during launch our front
suspension groups completely and our
rear actually decompresses a little bit
as well and this brings us to an
interesting point in the real world drag
scene there's a lot of debate over
whether or not squad is even a good
thing and it's generally agreed that
especially on higher-end more serious
drag cars it's best to not have squat
and they're built to anti-squat and can
preload their suspension and get a
better launch this is what the Nova is
doing luckily for us in Forza a lot of
these settings seem to be baked into the
car by default and we don't need to
worry about whether or not a car is
designed to squat or anti-squat
interestingly enough and this is not
like real life a softer suspension
setting will benefit both squat and
anti-squat setups in Forza so if you
notice your suspension lifting during
drag racing don't worry about it and
keep your suspension soft but if you're
driving a car that squat
open up your telemetry and make sure
that you're not bottoming out your rear
suspension this is one of the few cases
where you'd want to increase your rear
suspension settings you can do this by
lowering the car but I wouldn't
recommend it try playing with suspension
stiffness as well as rebound stiffness
now the other setting we can use
telemetry for is our camber setting if
you'll remember we added a little bit of
positive camber to counteract the
negative camber that usually comes from
squatting but this car doesn't squat so
what we need to do is take a look at our
camber during a launch and see where it
sits as it turns out this car still does
benefit from a small amount of positive
camber during launch and with that you
should know just about everything you
need to to get a start with drag racing
as usual the comments section is a great
place to both share and learn new
knowledge
I love having conversations with people
about this kind of stuff and learning
new things myself so I hope that that
knowledge can pass on to you guys as
well as always thank you so much for
watching we're just about to hit the
10,000 subscribers mark which is insane
to me
thank you again I've got plenty more on
the way so stick around and guys keep
enjoying Forza horizon for the new
expansion is just around the corner
plenty of content on that I cannot wait
thanks guys
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