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8mm and Super 8 Reels Movie Digitizer Film Scanner Pro | Detailed Review



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hey guys what's going on look what I got

right here this is the eight millimeter

and super 8 film digitizer that it

purchased about two weeks ago been

playing with this I actually am pretty

impressed with this product for what I

paid for it it scans frame by frame and

digitizes your old home movies and it's

doing me pretty well I'm pretty pretty

happy with it that's what this video is

gonna be about today I'm gonna share

with you my experiences with this

particular device go over with you some

of the best settings to choose from one

of the things that I really like about

it is that you can more or less just set

the thing and hit go and then 2 hours

later you have a finished real it's been

digitized I've seen three different

versions of this there's the two

wolverine variants

there's the 720p wolverine and then

there's a slightly more expensive 1080p

wolverine this one is sort of like the

unbranded version of those it actually

it looks very similar in design to the

Wolverines

in fact this box even has like a picture

of one of the Wolverine ones on it I

don't know if like this is made by the

same company or what but this one claims

to also do 1080p and for the price you

can't go wrong so unfortunately I don't

have one of the Wolverine wants to play

with however I am gonna go over with you

this particular one we're gonna go

through some of the settings we're gonna

determine how to get the best results

with exposure and sharpness and some

some other things I've figured out that

you can may need to do in your post to

get the frame rate to playback at the

correct speed okay so let's get going so

this is the main film scanning unit and

all the accessories that it comes with

it does come with a 5-inch reel which

will hold about 16 to 18 minutes of film

so if you have reels larger than this

you may have to splice those down in

order to use this this film digitizer it

comes with this cleaning wipe I have not

actually used this yet but this is for

cleaning the little film tray right here

where the film goes through I will

probably use that in the future because

films

tend to get dirty it comes with a USB

mini cable this is for transferring your

files off onto like say a laptop and

this can be useful if you don't want to

remove the SD card each time when you

remove the SD card the unit reboots so

this can actually be useful for you if

you want to stop and then restart your

film this is the composite TV out cable

I have not actually used this but

whenever you play back on the little LCD

screen it does playback at 30 frames per

second keep in mind that super 8 and 8

millimeter are 18 frames per second and

16 frames per second respectively on the

capture so when you're playing back at

30 it's gonna be really fast so I'm not

sure how useful this really is of course

this is the 12 volt AC adapter that you

need to power the device the manual

watch this video you're really not gonna

need to get into here too much it does

come with a 32 gigabyte SD card it pops

right in the back too

step up real inserts to allow you to use

reels that have the larger holes that

you can put onto here if you need them

okay so this is a reel that I have from

1958 that has a bit of a snowstorm in it

the beginning I thought that would be

kind of interesting to share and I want

to show you how to go ahead and thread

this up so you'll notice here that

there's a solid white line that runs the

full length here so this solid line is

for recording and the dash or dotted

line is actually for rewinding so just

pay attention to that if your reels are

rewound correctly you should notice that

the sprockets will be closest to the

unit itself so let's go ahead and mount

this on to the unit and there we go and

then we should just be at a pull this

leader across you push this to the left

it will open the film tray you can just

kind of let it go right through there

for now and then thread it but just like

that and then into the take-up reel now

you do have to pay attention to the

notch on the take-up reel so then the

next step once you have your film

threaded is to actually just turn the

device on the device will to come on

it's going to advance the film just a

little bit that happens each time you

turn it on it will happen if you remove

the SD card and the device reboots so

I'm going to just go ahead and manually

advance the film

until we get to our first frame

okay so so there are these little clips

in here right here and right here that

the film has to be under and just pull

the film up to that first frame

basically it's like one third of the way

cross the frame will be right in the

middle of that tray there's a little

gear mechanism over here and that's

actually what advances the frame by

frame and so that'll take care of itself

it is important that you have this in

the right selection so I'm using eight

millimeter film of course if this was

super 8 we would slide this over to

super 8 if you make the mistake of

selecting the wrong one your film will

not advance so if you run into that you

probably have selected the wrong one

it's pretty easy to make the mistake

basically the super 8 has a smaller

sprocket than the than the 8 millimeter

that's the main way that you can tell

them apart so once you have this lined

up correctly you just close your film

tray it should go pretty easy

really the only thing next to do is hit

your start/stop button do you want to go

over some of the settings that I have

determined to be the best so if you hit

menu I can go through your settings

there's the playback setting this will

play it back however it plays back from

the SD card and faster the normal rate

fast forward is actually how you rewind

at the end and I will be showing you

that Eevee is your exposure so I'm gonna

say ok to that I have found that

exposing at negative 0.5 works the best

for me I have some film that was shot in

some really bright light and basically

what happens with that film is it ends

up looking yellow I would suggest you

underexposed

by negative 0.5 you can play around with

these I tend to do the entire reel with

the same exposure if I want to reexpose

I'll just go back and do the entire

wheel again at a different exposure

because I feel it's difficult to start

and stop you can do that but that's

outside the scope of this video frame

adjust is forgetting your centering I

leave that at the defaults for sharpness

I went from the default which is medium

down to low I found that gave me a

better result

it helped reduce the film grain a little

bit so and then there's course there's

language so we're gonna go back to the

main screen you can see here and all you

really have to do once you've dialed in

your settings is say start stop at this

point it's going to ask you what size

reel you have and since this is a larger

reel it's a 5 inch reel we're gonna

select the 5 inch reel setting really

all this does is determines a countdown

and generally my reels were like

overloaded so generally this hits zero

before but it's ok this thing will keep

on going it has a way to detect that

it's at the end and if you forget about

it it will shut itself down on its own

anyways without further ado let's push

this button and get this thing started

so right here you can see that we're in

frame this is the snowstorm I was

talking about it's interesting to

actually watch this I have watched tire

films however it is only doing this at 2

frames per second so you're gonna be

here for quite some time also I find

that this tends to have more of blue a

blue hue to it then your final end

result don't worry about that just wait

and look at your footage at the end okay

so the scanner has finished digitizing

the entire reel and I have imported it

into my computer and remember how I was

telling you about the frame rates so at

this point we need to change the frame

rate now I use Adobe Premiere the way I

do this is I right-click the file I go

to modify interpret footage and you can

see right here that this is 30 frames

per second I now select assume this

frame rate and I'll type in 16 frames

per second and select okay if this had

been super 8 I would select 18 frames

per second and if your software doesn't

support this just slow the footage down

to 60% for super 8 or 53.3% for 8

millimeter it's time to check out this

footage and see how this film scanner or

formed okay so this is that snowstorm I

was talking to you about and you can see

this films pretty dirty

but overall I think this doesn't look

too bad

you will notice I'm gonna pause this

here you notice over here in this area

towards the the top of the screen that

you do kind of notice a little bit of

grain

now of course eight millimeter film does

have grain in it

I'm gonna keep playing it just unless

you decide for yourself what you think

of the footage let me know in the

comments down below what you think of

this quality is this truly 1080p

you

yeah this footage is this from the late

50s the big snowstorm

you can see

see these guys are checking it out here

in a minute they're gonna have a

snowball fight

here we go

so the difficulty I'm having here is how

do I

how do I really compare this with what

it should actually look like my dad

happened to pick this up at a yard sale

this is what is called the complete

video transfer system I actually used an

iPhone 11 Pro to capture using this

device and a projector so it's a

different technique that actually

captures it in real time I was capturing

it around 16 frames per second okay so

here we go comparing the film digitizer

to the video transfer system

you

so right away you can kind of tell that

it looks a little more like it's cooler

a cooler temperature

don't see as much film green as in the

transfer system as you do with the

digitizer but this doesn't look that

much clearer to me

the other thing too that you if you'd

watch here on the video transfer system

side you'll notice there's a flicker and

that's really hard to get rid of

whenever you film or yeah you record

film from another device

also an attendee tend to see a lot more

scratches on this side on the video

transfer system side

definitely looks a little brighter in

the shadows

but I mean they're pretty close I mean

if

I mean as far as like sharpness

quality I mean I I feel like it's doing

a pretty good job I actually captured

the video transfer system with 4k

resolution try to get as much sharpness

as possible out of it I feel like it's

slightly sharper than the film digitizer

you

okay so here comes this old car

through this between these two snow

banks

you

definitely see the scratch is a lot more

prominently on the video transfer side

I'm gonna stop so these tend to get out

of sync a little bit it's it's hard to

keep them in sync because the one is

frame by frame it's exact and then this

side over here depends on the speed of

the projector which runs by a motor so

it tends to move in and out a little bit

I tried to align the entire rate reel

from end to end and at times they get

out of sync but just have a look at that

license plate

I don't know if you can tell those look

any different

you know one of the positive things

about the film digitizer is you don't

have that flicker

and the scratches are definitely less

prominent and there was a splice and

back up and see if I can see that splice

you see this place right there

on the film digitizer side

now if we can back up and there's the

splice on this side so we're a little

bit out of sync here but not too much

going on

also if you notice right there on the

film trance

you can tend to see the bulb in the

center that's one of the things about

older projectors is the lighting wasn't

very even so this thing accomplishes

that well I mean the lighting is very

even across the entire frame you can see

that scratch look at how much more

prominent it is on the video transfer

side so I don't know if they're

correcting that with software or what

but you know I get the feeling that the

film digitizer just because it lacks

some sharpness and if you tend to look

at the look at it really closely you'll

notice that that film green be like the

the data compression they're using it

might just not be that high and it's

just not really getting all the details

but at the same time that actually might

have the effect of reducing the

scratches

is just a theory I mean I don't really

know what this thing's doing internally

pretty neat though

let me know down in the comments what

you think of these two methods are they

is this thing doing a good enough job

would you buy one of these I think it's

worth it here comes this big snowblower

look at the telephone poles back in

those days they they carried a lot of

wires because each phone call had its

own wire

it's really neat

I'm gonna kind of jump ahead here and

see if we can find some other footage

okay here's another this is my

grandmother and my aunt you'll notice

here on the video transfer side that it

is just way underexposed that's another

interesting thing about this film

scanner is that you can control the

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exposure but it also seems like it does

a little bit on its own with the

exposure like if it's way out of

adjustment it'll kind of keep the

exposure in check

the lighting is just much more

even

more balanced for sure with with the

film digitizer I would have to say that

this thing does a pretty good job now

that we've finished our capture the next

step is to just rewind it

it's pretty easy you just take this reel

off and you're gonna flip it like this

and put it on this side same goes with

this reel pull this reel off flip it

like this put it on this side

then place the reel and this time you're

going to just run under these two ear

follow the dashed lines

and hopefully I can get this in there

kind of give it a little help all right

so then we want to go through our menu

go to fast-forward now again this is

rewinding but since we put this over

here

technically the fast board is the rewind

so we just say okay

move down to the yes it's gonna tell us

to please take away film which I think

just means remove your hands get your

hands out of the way and there you go

all right once we get to this point we

just hold the start/stop button and

we're good to go

all right that's gonna be it for this

one I did want to give you one last

piece of advice if you do pick up one of

these and remember it's links down in

the description make sure that you have

in your possession a splicer at some

point some films gonna break on you and

it's gonna be a pain if you don't have a

way to splice the film back together I

ran into this one real it was like

really brittle it broke on me a few

times doesn't always happen but

occasionally you'll run into one of

these reels just go ahead and pick one

up you'll thank me later but uh yeah

that's gonna be for this one I really

appreciate you watch this all the way to

the end if you haven't already make sure

you hit that subscribe button and smash

that Bell and I'll see you guys in the

next one peace

you