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Drywall layout, cut, and fit



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so today we're gonna lay out cut out and

fit drywall so won't you come along I

hope it was as good for you as it was

for me hey this is mr. Carlini with

another edition of virtual carpentry

through the cove at nineteen crisis so

first off your dry wall should be stood

up on the side of the jobsite like we

have it here you never want to cut on a

set of horses or you know laying flat on

a pile dry walls easiest cut standing up

believe me I've been doing this for 30

years and it's the easiest way you look

at any professional drywall er and this

is how they're gonna do it so I want to

go over some basic cutting techniques

you're gonna find that if you try to use

power tools it's gonna make too much

dust it's dangerous it's not good to

breathe this dust so for the most part

drywall is cut with a plain old utility

knife a tape measure utility knife and a

t-square so let's get started so I want

you to understand something about the

properties of drywall

it's a core of gypsum with a layer of

paper on each side now the paper gives

it its strength if we want to cut

drywall all we have to do is destroy the

integrity of the strength of one of

these sides and it'll snap so watch this

I'm using this knife I'm not even

pushing hard I'm gonna prove it just by

holding it with these fingertips I score

right through the paper like this give

it a little bend and it snaps this is

how we cut drywall it's not a hard deep

score then we cut the back paper and

it's off so let's say that we need a

piece of drywall four feet wide by I

don't know three feet so we're gonna do

we're gonna measure down the length of

this piece of drywall three feet we'll

put our mark just a simple crows foot

then we're going to take our drywall

t-square set it flush onto the top of

the sheet line up one of the edges of

the square with our Bork utility knife

time and I always like to put one foot

against the t-square to keep it stable

while I have the other hand up top then

I simply trace right down the side of it

right down the side of the seat

my step behind it give it a little knee

snaps that easy cut the backpaper we

know to pieces so the t-square works

pretty good for cross cutting across the

sheet of drywall but it doesn't work so

well for whenever we want to do a long

rip down a sheet so this is how we do

that we pull out our tape measure and

we're going to use it as the guide so a

lot of people would say well we need a

longer rip let's take a measurement on

that side of the sheet and a measurement

on this side of the sheet strike it with

a chalk line and trace it with our knife

well that does work but it's not the

most efficient way how professional

drywall is gonna do it is that they're

gonna come over here we're going to

measure down whatever size our rip needs

to be in this case I'm going to say 12

inches so at this point here we need to

use our knife and our tape together so

here's a little trick for making this

work I always teach people to do it like

this take your tape measure hook it over

top of the blade like we have right

there and you're gonna take your thumb

on the bottom side and on the top side

and you're gonna squeeze this so tight

that the knife is holding out all on its

own notice I don't have the end of the

tape over this part where we could have

a lot of movement it's right over top of

the blade and I turn it a little bit so

that it looks like that

I then go over to my mark with my knife

put together on my tape measure

I set the knife blade right on my mark

and I slide my fingers down take a look

at that upper knuckle how it's tight to

the drywall and I clamp this super tight

with my thumb so this is what we're

looking for and this has to be rigid and

tight and we don't want it sliding up

and down so it's a very firm grip and I

continue to watch this measurement that

I have up at the top I have 12 inches

right here so I'm gonna watch this

measurement that it stays at 12 the

whole way everything is tight my arms

are stiff and as I do this I'm gonna

walk across the length of the sheet and

I want to be careful that one hand

doesn't get in front of the other like

this because this changes our size so

it's just going to be this a nice even

cut after the cuts made reach around

behind give it a tap and it should snap

right on that mark so after the drywall

is cut it's sometimes it's a little

rough like we have here and we want to

try to keep that roughness off as much

as possible because of the fact that

we're probably going to be butting the

edge of this sheet into another sheet to

take that roughness off we use something

like this this is a rasp okay in the

field we call it a scrubber we'll just

drag it down the edge and it shapes off

all those little humps and bumps and

imperfections and throughs the edge of

the sheet up now cutting drywall with a

tape measure and at night I have to

admit is really hard when you first

start it takes practice it may take you

a couple hundred sheets of cutting

drywall to really get start getting good

at this so what I suggest is if you have

some scraps on the jobsite just

start practicing lay out some marks and

start cutting cut one inch pieces it

doesn't matter

this scraps going in a dumpster anyway

let's talk about layout if your layouts

done properly your drywall finishers

really gonna love you that means that he

or she doesn't have as much work to do

as you can see the layout was done very

well on this pipe because the gap around

that is very small these outlets were

cut pretty close to not a whole lot of

work to do on that as far as finishing

goes so we always have obstacles to cut

around boxes pipes fans different things

that protrude through the wall but I

want to show you how to actually lay

them out and cut them now you always

want to cut your drywall so that it

breaks right on your studs or your

ceiling joists you can't have the edge

of a drywall hanging out no-man's land

so if you're 16 on senator 24 on center

full sheets should work unless you're

coming out of a corner once you're

coming out of a corner you have to

probably make a cut so that it'll break

somewhere onto your under your own

centers after your joints are on the on

centers if you have a big room for

weight footers or 12 footers should

break perfectly the rest of the way down

the line here's a common problem we have

electric already hooked up we have a

temporary outlet set into there so the

first thing you're going to want to do

is go over to the panel make sure that's

shut down because you will get zapped if

you're touching this next we want to

pull out the outlet and turn it facing

straight out now for now we first have

to decide which direction we run on the

sheet so we run them vertical or we

running them horizontal horizontal is

the most common way to do it in

residential construction once we have

that figured out we can proceed now

we're going to lay out these couple

electrical boxes that I

on the wall a lot of times in

residential we hang the ceilings

then we lay set the top then we set the

top sheet up tight to the ceiling and we

work our way on down the wall lifting

the sheets up and abutting them into the

upper sheets other times in a basement

like this you may be standing your

drywall right on the floor in basements

or damp areas I always like to put a

little block underneath the drywall

before I screw it off just to keep it up

in the air in the event that we have

water or moisture on the floor at some

point that keeps it from soaking up into

the drywall so if we have multiple boxes

outlets pipes things like that in a one

sheet of drywall something you want to

keep in mind always take those

measurements off of the same place don't

take this measurement off on this one

this sheet of drywall in this set of

measurements off of the corner down

there so pull all your measurements off

of one place which would be right here

and in my case I don't have drywall hung

above so I'm going to be setting this

1/2 inch off the floor and I'll throw a

half inch block on the floor and measure

up from there two and 3/8 and four and

3/8

the next set of measurements 19 and 5/8

21 and 5/8 19 and 5/8 21 and 5/8 as you

can see it's nice to have a partner when

you do this you'd have your partner over

there shop not the measurements while

the other partner is over here laying

them out now we'll do the ups on these

boxes auditor box 42 and a half top 46

so we could use the t-square to plumb

these down I like to just use the old

slip finger we could do the same thing

with a pencil that we do with the knife

we hooked the pencil into there and give

it a squeeze I touched a pencil right to

my mark you can do the same thing that

we did with a knife but I pushed my

finger up tight push my finger up tight

squeeze it and I watched that number and

I draw my vertical stripes

same thing here same thing here and I'm

just lining up with my crow's feet that

I drew and I'll transfer that mark

across

and these are my two cutouts then the

drywall jab saw is a handy little tool

for this with this 5/8 board I'm using

it's a little tough but I usually start

it with my hammer and I'm gonna cut out

what we call a back cut what that means

is I'm not cutting in at a ninety degree

angle this is my hole so I'm going to

angle my saw away from the hole so that

the backside of this cut is a lot bigger

as you can see I angle cut it back the

back side is bigger that's what we call

back cut we also want to add in our stud

lines or floor joist lines it's

important to do that nobody's a mind

reader you can't see what's behind that

board after it's up 24:48 and I can use

my t-square or I can use the old slip

finger with with the tape measure so

let's try it

that's a pretty nice fit knife to admit

throughout my addition here most things

I didn't cut out by hand with the jab

saw we have a modern tool that's called

a drywall router several manufacturers

make these but there's a bit that goes

in here it looks like a eighth inch

drill bit this one happens to be smooth

on the very end now what this does is

this traces around your your outlet

boxes or you know protrusions that you

may have coming through the wall I use

this in place of the jab saw a lot of

times just because I'm old not to have

to wear my body out but this is a great

tool to have it saves a lot of time in

tomorrow's video I'm gonna go more into

depth about this tool and how it can

really speed up production in the

installation of drywall thanks for

watching man

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