How To Cut Flat Crown THE EASY WAY!

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welcome to paws toolbox today I'm going

to cover cutting crown molding flat that

means setting it down on the saw flat

and making your cuts now in most cases

people don't have saws like this now

this saw right here is a double compound

miter saw so it swivels to both sides if

you have a standard saw you will want to

check out my other video it's called how

to cut crown molding the easy way and

that explains in detail how to go ahead

and make your cuts with a regular saw

and in position but now we're going to

cover cutting molding flat so what you

will do is lay it flat and then you'll

put the top against the fence and the

bottom will go here and this will act

like the wall so you will not cut it on

the angle that it's it's set on you're

going to take your blade of your saw and

you're going to swivel it over and make

these measurements and it's really easy

once you see how this is done the

problem is you need to know what the

spring angle is on this and I'm going to

explain that in a second and you're also

going to need to know what the figures

are for this and there's a chart that

tells you where to set this it's not

going to be your normal settings like it

would be if you cut this in position

this is where you need the double

compound miter saw and you also need to

find out what this angle is if you look

at this crown looks like standard crown

this is 45 45 crown crown comes in most

cases two different ways 45 and 45 which

make up a 90 that's where your wall goes

into your ceiling and that means this

angle is 45 degrees and this angle is 45

degrees on a 50 to 38

it's totally different look at one angle

is way different than the other now some

crown moldings will fool you because

they they're not as far down as this

this angle will stop short so it'll look

like it's pretty much the same but it's

not and I'm going to show you an easy

way to check it you can take this and

set it on this square all right when I

set it to where this parts flat here and

the other parts flat here

it should be even if I have a 45 45 50

to 38 crown means that you have two

different size angles on here are two

different cuts and if you take 52 and 38

and add them together you still get 90

degrees that's what your your wall to

your ceiling should be if you don't have

a vaulted ceiling now that's a whole

nother animal and we'll cover that later

right now I'm just going to show you how

to make these cuts okay this right here

if I set it up on here and I'm flush on

the top and bottom I'm two inches at the

top and three inches at the bottom that

means that this is 52 38 it's an arm

offset now if I put this upside down

you'll see it's going to look funny it's

not going to be right see how much of an

angle it is there now you have your

three inches on the ceiling and two on

the wall and it gives you a much

different angle every once in a while

you'll have a situation where somebody

wants that to put lights inside of it

they don't have a large crown it's a

small crown or something like that but

try not to do it with something like

this that shows a profile that's obvious

on the bottom this is pretty plain and

this is where your detail is that's

pretty obvious if you put it this way it

may look a little funny here's the crown

molding that can throw you off this

looks like it would be a 52:38 crown

because you have this obvious detail at

the bottom and you have the round part

up top but check this out if you set

this up against here you're two inches

on the top and two inches on the bottom

now if I flip it upside down you're

still going to sit the exact same way so

this is a 45 45 crown so don't be fooled

just by looking at it and assuming it's

52 38 or 45 45 the reason why I'm going

into detail with this is because I want

you to understand that you have to have

these numbers right when you go to make

these cuts if you set this up on your

saw 450 to 38 and you're putting 45 45

crown on there you're going to have bad

cuts this is a crown molding that has

detail all the way through so you can

take this and flip it upside down or

right side up because it is a 45 45

crown and it's still going to look great

this way or you can put it this way and

it really doesn't matter it's it's your

own personal preference that's going to

look good both ways and that's the way

it can sit on the wall all right we're

going to take this and go over these

settings and I'm going to get a chart

out because you really need that chart

here are your crown charts or your cheat

sheets and they are excellent this one's

made by Jo - Fusco Jo - Fusco passed

away a couple of years ago and he was an

excellent carpenter he knew a lot more

than most people and including me so I

go by his charts and I'm going to leave

a link in the bottom of this video

that's going to bring you right to where

you can print this it's a PDF friendly

chart so you can just print it right up

keep these copies with you when we go to

do ours which is 90 degrees I'm going to

set my minor at 35 point two six and my

bevel at 30 some saws show it a little

bit different but it doesn't really

matter it's not a big deal I'm going to

show you on here my saw says thirty five

point three if you put it on thirty five

point three you're going to get the

exact same cut it's so close it really

doesn't matter we're going to set our

bevel setting first and you see right

here are your different degrees I'll

loosen this up and unlock it and then I

just turn this down for thirty degrees

right on that mark and I can lock it in

place now we're going to get into our

miters if you look right here you see

thirty one point six thirty one point

six rings a bell right because on the

chart with 38 52 crown your setting

would be thirty one point six at ninety

degrees if you're doing forty fives you

have to go to this next little line here

some of them will have this and some

will not that's why you definitely need

your charts so thirty five point three

is right there

we set it on here and we lock it in

place I highly recommend that you make a

couple of sample cuts before you start

this because once you get this down here

and you have a sample cut it's a

no-brainer when you go to set you saw

because you may forget when you're doing

an outside or inside corner of where

your bevel setting and miter settings go

you take your crown and you put it on

the exact way you're going to set it on

your wall okay with the top up just like

this so you set that against the fence

and we'll go ahead and make a cut right

here and I'm going to show you how easy

it is if you look at this crown this is

an inside corner on the right side this

is a right inside okay this is a left

outside you see how it's an outside cut

if you look at the inside you can see

the meat of the of the crown and over

here you can't if you look at it

straight on you just see the finished

finished part of the crown so that's one

sample and we'll just flip this all over

to get the other one just swivel this

over 230 degrees lock it in place

take my miter and set it over here at 35

point three or two six now I'm gonna

make this cut

so you can write on here this is a right

outside corner okay this is a left

inside corner now you have all your

samples you need so when you go to set

this all up it's a no-brainer

if I have to do a left inside I'm lining

it up and it's going to fit perfect if I

do a right outside corner same thing so

a lot of times I'll have a right outside

and a left inside or opposite I'll make

this cut and then I'll have to do is

slide it over and make other cuts when

I'm cutting any molding I always make my

inside cut first or my flat cut if this

was a flat piece I would have that piece

first and then I can hook right on to

the edge of here and measure over to get

my outside cut you're going to run

across situations where you have two

outside cuts when you do that you're not

going to be able to hook your tape on

one of them once you make that cut it's

going to want to slide off there's ways

to go around that or work around it and

I'm going to show you right now one way

and this is great with short pieces I'll

take and cut an inch if I take and cut

an inch right here put my line right on

the edge I can get my measurement over

here but just remember you have to make

adjustments if I'm 12 inches and that's

what I need it's going to say 13 so

you're going to have to subtract an inch

from there okay once you do that you'll

get an accurate measurement if you're

cutting a long piece you're going to

want something like this this is a

b-line clamp and it's a great little

tool that I keep on a tool belt all the

time you will take this and clamp it on

the edge and I'm going to show you how

to do that it is made for plywood mainly

but I use it for this a lot the reason

why it's made for plywood is it because

it will lock right on the edge of

plywood and you can get your measurement

from the middle of the board over if you

want and it even has setups for angles

so check out that site it's really a

good little tool costs about nine ten

dollars and I'll use mine

on a daily basis so if you do not have

that you're always going to have a speed

square this is a Swanson

speed square and it's a great tool for

just about everything if you do


you need a speeds good alright what I'll

do on the speed square is I'll set it up

right on the end to match my markup okay

once I do that I can take my clamp hook

it on here and get my accurate

measurement and it doesn't matter how

long it is it's going to hook and stay

on there let's go ahead and cut a 12

inch piece right here a 12 inch board so

I'll take it right on the edge mark it

at 12 inches we have our accurate

measurement and now we want to make an

outside cut right here well my saw is

set up for an outside right we're going

to need a left so remember the templates

that we made real simple all I have to

do is set my saw for that so what we're

going to do is take the saw and flip it

over I'll flip it back here at 30

degrees and I turn my mitre over here

it's going to match and my mitre is

going to go right at 33 or 35.3 the

great thing about a sliding compound

miter saw is you can take it and slide

it in a position to where you can line

it up exactly on that line now if you

don't have a sliding compound miter what

you'll do is you'll start back here a

little bit and then just kind of slide

your board over until you get your right

cut because you don't want to go past

that line if you misjudge it and it goes

past that well you got to start over

again I take this and I set it down

right on the line

see I use a fine line and I just cut

right on the edge where that line stays

there and I can still see it you don't

want to cut that line off because you

want to know exactly where you're at and

you don't want a really wide pencil

where you have a thick mark you want to

have a fine line there so when you do

get right on it you have an accurate

mark this piece the crown is leftover

from a job that I had this is 11 and a

quarter inches high or wide so there's

no way you could sit this in position

and make a cut you have to cut this

flight so we're going to go ahead and

just play with it and get a cut out of

it this wide piece of crown is really

meant for an experienced carpenter you

have to be doing this for a little while

before you can hang crown seven inches

are over on a wall because seven seven

inch crown and larger it doesn't flex

you can't twist it you have to you have

to shim it and work it to get it to fit

right and it's a lot easier with a

smaller crown so we'll I suggest to

people if you want a nice larger look go

ahead and make a two or three piece

crown you can stack them together and

get a really nice look and it's a lot

easier it's a couple more cuts but it's

a lot easier than trying to slap one big

piece up like this

this is not a crown you want to fight

with you cannot twist this you see how

think it is it's really hard to work

with if it's a little bit warped or a

little bit twisted you're really going

to have a time with it so stick with the

lighter or smaller stuff when you get

really experienced then you can start

playing with this stuff okay we're going

to go ahead and set this in the position

that it would be in on a house of course

this is too big for my house but I just

want to show you that my mitre is

correct if the mitre is correct and you

have your saw settings the right way

this is going to hug the wall and have a

true 90 degree angle if you're off it's

going to kick out this way or this way

and it's not going to match up right or

this top here will be off and your

bottom will be off it's just not going

to match up everything matched up here

and then you see my corners good well

that's it for now don't forget to

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