have you noticed lately that you have a
lint lever it's nothing to be ashamed of
but it might mean it's time for fresh
brake fluid I'll show you how to bleed
your brakes in this video an MC garage
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replacing your brake fluid and bleeding
the system of air bubbles is regular
maintenance that your manual will likely
suggest doing once every two years you
need to replace brake fluid because it
degrades with use it sucks moisture out
of the air which reduces the boiling
point and sometimes air bubbles can
sneak past the seals and cause a lever
to feel spongy bleeding your brake
system
replacing the fluid solve both of those
issues if you're not certain when the
last time your brake fluid was replaced
color is a good indicator of age new
brake fluid is going to be pale yellow
or amber in color and perfectly clear
while old stuff tends to be dark and
cloudy in any case when it's time to
replace your brake fluid you're going to
need a few supplies for starters you
need fresh brake fluid based on the
grade that's listed on your reservoir
cap or in your owners manual and you're
going to want to pick up a length of
hose and a wrench that fit over the
bleeder valve on your calipers you're
also going to need some sort of
container for the waste fluid and
finally some rags or paper towels yep
that is literally all you need now you
can use a cheap piece of vinyl hose from
the hardware store or you can pick up a
dedicated tool like this mini bleeder
from motion Pro it's got the hose a
wrench for the bleeder valve and an
internal check valve built right in it
makes the job a lot easier these things
are about thirty dollars and I'll put a
link in the description in case you want
to pick one up for yourself okay so
you've got everything you need and
you're finally ready to start bleeding
your brake the first thing you need to
do is remove the dust cover from the
bleeder bolt on the caliper and then
install your bleeder set up on the
caliper
then run the hose into your waste
container and to keep the hose from jump
around or falling out and getting brake
fluid everywhere what I like to do is
cut across in the plastic of the bottle
so if the hose is held in place like
that next move to the top of the bike
and lay some rags over your gas tank and
around your reservoir to protect from
drips I actually like to make a bid for
the reservoir by taking a paper towel
and cutting a slice in it so it fits
right over the top we do all of this to
protect your bike's finish because brake
fluid is nasty stuff and it can damage
your paint now you're ready to remove
the cap from the reservoir and top off
the brake fluid if it's low once you've
done that I actually like to set the cap
back on the reservoir since some master
cylinders tend to spurt fluid when you
release the brake lever and pumping the
brake lever it's something you're about
to be doing a lot of the whole purpose
of this procedure is to push all the old
brake fluid in any air bubbles out of
the system so what we're going to do is
pump the front brake to pressurize the
system then crack the bleeder in order
to purge some of the old fluid you only
want to open it about a quarter to a
half of a turn any more than that and
you might get seepage past the threads
then with the lever still depressed go
ahead and close the bleeder valve then
release the brake lever and repeat pump
crack closed and repeat pump cracks
closed and repeat yep it's a little bit
of a tedious process but you'll be
through soon enough and your bike will
thank you while you're bleeding the
brakes make sure you keep an eye on the
fluid level in the reservoir and top it
off as it gets low otherwise you might
end up sucking air and while that's not
the end of the world it's going to take
you even longer to push all those
bubbles through the system when you see
clear fresh fluid coming through the
hose and the air bubbles start to taper
off you know that you are nearly
finished you should notice that the
brake lever is getting firmer to keep
bleeding until it's pure fluid with no
air bubbles and then you're done check
the fluid level in the reservoir one
last time to make sure it's between the
lower and the upper level and then go
ahead and secure the caps it's always a
good idea when everything buttoned up to
take a moist rag and
down the reservoir and the caliper to
make sure that you're cleaning up any
brake residue finally if your bike's got
a dual disc front end you're going to
want to repeat the whole process with
the other caliper and if you're going to
bleed your rear brake it's the same
procedure except instead of pulling on a
lever you're pushing out a pedal you may
be wondering how to bleed the brakes on
a bike with ABS well it's the same
procedure we just outlined though on
some models you are going to be left
with some old fluid in the ABS pump
honestly that's not a big deal though
and if your bike has a radial master
cylinder with a bleeder nipple on it
you're going to save that to last and
bleeding the master cylinder is exactly
like leading the calipers okay that is
brake bleeding 101 from the MC garage I
hope this tutorial was helpful I hope
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hear from you until next time ride safe
you