How to bleed Back Brakes
How to Bleed your Brakes by Yourself
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- Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto.
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- We're gonna show you how to bleed brakes
by yourself using only a bottle
and some fuel line to make a self bleeding tool.
Now this video is on this specific vehicle,
however, this application can be applied
to just about any vehicle.
The only thing that's really gonna be different
is the size and location of your bleeder screws.
If you like this video please click subscribe.
We have a ton more information on this
and many other vehicles as well as more generic
helps tips like this.
And if you ever need parts for your car
you can follow the link down in the description
over at 1AAUTO.com.
So real quick we're gonna talk to you about
the tool we made here for bleeding brakes by yourself.
This is very easy to make and inexpensive.
All you do is we just took an old soda bottle.
You can use any kind of plastic bottle
but just about this size is what you want.
I drilled two holes in the cap.
This is 3/16ths fuel line.
That's what you wanna use because it sits
pretty tight on top of the bleeder screw.
So you don't need anything to tension it on
to make sure that no air or moisture
gets in their while your bleeding.
Drill a whole big enough to fit the fuel line through
and then I through a zip tie on there.
So we can hang it from the back of the vehicle
and not worry about it falling
or having somewhere to put it.
And if something happens, this hose will stay down there
and submerged in the fluid.
We don't have to worry about this moving around
or pulling out on us.
It's about two feet of hose I have here.
And then I just drilled a small vent hole in it
because you do build up a little bit of pressure in there.
So we'll take the bottle
and that's brake fluid in the bottom.
You wanna make sure you clean out
whatever fluid was in there.
We'll pour some DOT 3 brake fluid in it.
I'm gonna fill it about a third of the way.
We'll put the hose in.
Put the cap on
nice and tight.
And we're ready to bleed our brakes.
Our master cylinder reservoir is already clean
because I had to fill the fluid
and bleed the master cylinder in this
due to a brake line failure we had.
Which is why we're bleeding the rest of our brakes now.
If yours is dirty, wipe it off
and make sure you don't let any dirt
or contaminants get into the fluid.
Remove your cap and fill the master cylinder all the way
because we don't want this to bleed down
and get air into it
or we'll be starting our whole process over.
Once it's full we'll throw the cap back on
so nothing gets in there.
Make sure you keep your fluid nice and tight too
you don't want any moisture getting in there.
So the proper procedure for bleeding your brakes
on the vast majority of vehicles, including this one
is to start at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder.
Which is going to be the passenger rear.
We'll then go to the drivers rear
passenger front and end on the drivers front.
This is to make sure that any air
or dirty fluid in the system gets flushed
completely through the longest line.
To make sure that there isn't any trapped
when we go closer and closer to the master cylinder.
This vehicle does have an abs module underneath
just about the middle of the truck
but it's a little more forward.
So these lines still hold true.
A rear mounted abs unit will make this procedure
the opposite of the way we're going to do it.
If your vehicle has a rear-mounted abs module,
this process will be reversed
of the way we're going to do it.
With your brakes starting to bleed in the front
and ending in the rear.
This will depend on where you module is.
So just take a look at it
and see which lines are the longest.
If it's in the passenger rear corner
then the furthest line is going to be the drivers front.
If it's in the drivers rear
then the passenger front should be your farthest corner.
But a simple check over the brake lines
should show you which one has the longest lines.
So underneath the truck on the inside of the frame rail
this sits actually just about dead under the drivers seat
in the front.
So our abs module is not located in the engine bay
like the majority of them are.
It's still more to the front of the vehicle
so the bleeding procedure will be the same.
So our 3/16ths fuel line is actually just
a little bit smaller than the bleeder fitting.
So you gotta kinda work it on there a bit.
But then it's on there good and tight.
You get a nice seal.
Just crack your bleeder screw loose.
You don't wanna spin this out much more than
about a quarter of a turn.
Because anything else could cause it to
leak out of the side of the threads.
Which obviously means
fluid isn't gonna get pulled back in there, air is,
and that's going to defeat the purpose
of what we're trying to do here.
Ours happen to be a 10mm open end wrench
to open those bleeder screws.
Yours might be a different size depending
on the specific calipers your vehicles equipped with.
With the bleeder screw open
we'll now slowly fully depress the brake pedal.
Because when we release normally air would in
but with that line submerged in clean fluid
more brake fluid will come in
moving the air out of our brake system
(rhythmic rock music)
Now you should only have to do this a few times
if you did something like a brake caliper
or a line in the rear of the vehicle.
But our vehicle lost all the fluid in the system
so we're gonna be here a while pushing all the air out.
(rhythmic rock music)
After a little while,
there will be no more air bubbles coming out.
And it is okay to get out of your vehicle
and look at the hose.
If there are no air bubbles in the hose
then there's nothing coming through
and you've got it all out of that brake line.
Now that our brake fluid is nice and clear
and there are no bubbles left in our line
we'll close the bleeder screw with our 10mm wrench.
Make sure you get it nice and tight so it seals up.
And you wanna make sure when you're removing the hose
you pinch the bottom nice and tight.
And it is just rubber hose
so you should be able to pinch it off.
Life it up and let go.
To drain all that fluid back into the bottle
instead of on to the ground.
And move on to our next cylinder.
Check the master cylinder after bleeding each corner
of the vehicle because if fluid runs too low
and air gets into the master cylinder
you'll need to bleed the cylinder
and start the entire process over.
Now we're just going to go ahead
and show you the process on the front brakes.
It's exactly the same as the rear
but these ones are a little older
and we're gonna have to go easy
releasing the bleeder screws.
Make sure we don't strip them.
It may even be wise to use the box end of the wrench.
We'll open that up and I'm going to use
the one person method on this brake.
(rhythmic rock music)
Now that we've all the air out of our system
and we have a good firm brake pedal inside the truck
we can go ahead and close our last line.
Remove the hose.
Top off our brake fluid for the final time.
Reinstall our wheels and tires if you removed yours
and you don't have too
we just did this to make it easier to show you.
And you're good to go.
Always dispose of automotive fluids
properly and safely as not to create pollution.
Brake fluid and various other hazardous waste
from vehicles can generally be returned
at your local parts store.
As they take in these kind of wastes.
Or if your local junkyard or dump
has a hazardous waste day,
store these parts safely
and bring them at the appropriate time.
- Thanks for watching.
Visit us at 1AAUTO.com for quality auto parts
fast and free shipping
and the best customer service in the industry.
