bend

How to Quickly Kerf Bend Plywood and Solid Wood | Woodworking Coat Rack Project



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welcome to make something with me David

patoot oh and today I'm gonna show you

how to ban plywood and solid wood using

curve cutting while we make this

coatrack check so I have this piece of

plywood here that I want to do the kerf

bending and I got it cut down to rough

size the first thing I need to do is get

my blade height to just below that top

veneer the higher you go the more you

can bend but the higher you go the

weaker the surface so I'm gonna go just

below the veneer and leave part of that

top layer of the plywood you can use any

blade it doesn't have to be a flat

bottom blade I just have my combination

blade here in the table saw and we're

gonna use my crosscut sled is a website

called block layer com that does all the

math for you and tell us how many kerf

you need to make how deep to go and

depending on the radius that you're

looking for we are just going to start

cutting some curves until we get it

right if you cut too many it's not that

big of a deal I'm gonna have my radius

start about right here so I'm gonna do a

series of curves and in between I'm

gonna leave the width of the saw blade

and we're gonna just keep cutting curves

until I can get a 90 degree Bend

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I'm just going to move this over till it

looks like it's about the width of the

saw blade and I'm gonna make a little

pencil mark right here on my sled and

I'll know to move my curve over all the

way to that pencil mark every single

time

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so here's what we got so far we have

eight curves in there and I want to get

to 90 and we are almost there we're not

quite we still need one or two so I'm

just going to throw it back on the sled

and do a couple more so this is 3/4 inch

plywood and it took nine curves and I'm

trying to get the tightest radius that I

can

it'd be a big sweeping radius you can

space out your curves and not have them

so close so now I'm gonna make another

series of curves down here

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but we're gonna start to glue this up

I'm going to use this polyurethane glue

right here which we reacts with water

and causes it to foam and fill it space

so for these two guys right here I'm

going to wet it down I'm gonna fill it

with glue and then we're going to clamp

it in place like that and let it dry for

about an hour or so I've seen people use

regular wood glue for this as well but I

like using this because it expands so

I'm just gonna use a clamp try to get

that to 90 those two curves find this

one that I want to curve backwards where

it wants to break I'm going to squirt it

with some water for right now and then

I'm not gonna do anything but let that

sit and dry so that when it does dry we

can actually bend it a little bit more

you can see it kind of foaming up now

and filling in the space so it's been

about an hour getting this curve wet

help me get it past ninety degrees so

that experiment worked out pretty good

I'm gonna take this off the clamp here

and it holds its form now how cool is

that dan came up with the brilliant idea

of filling this end right here with that

expanding foam insulation stuff the the

great stuff and that I think could

actually work to stiffen that up I don't

need to do that for this because I'm

gonna make some side pieces and it's all

gonna be attached to that and it should

be nice and firm and sturdy so now that

we've gone over the basics of kerf

bending I'm going to make a coat hanger

out of this piece of cherry plywood at

the end of the video I'm gonna give you

some more tips and tricks to help you

along with this and while I'm making

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hanger and finish it up

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it's as simple as that if you're

wondering why I used hot glue for the

merits because the screws coming in from

the back didn't penetrate this very much

so there's not a lot of holding power

and I wanted to use hot glue and not

regular glue in case I need to take it

off to replace a broken mirror I did use

this Kirk bending technique in my

previous video when we gutted the

Nintendo and remade the case out of wood

you might want to check that out

basically there are three common ways to

bend wood here we get curved cutting

which is probably the quickest and

easiest way but you have to hide the

kerf somehow there's also bent

lamination like we did with the wooden

spoon a couple years ago the problem

with that is you might see the

laminations and you got to build a jig

just for each Bend and then there's

steam bending but not all woods are

bendable so you're limited on the

species and you're also limited on the

amount you can bend the wood because

you're actually compressing fibers on

the inside and expanding fibers on the

outside so you're limited there each

technique has its own advantages and

disadvantages there's a great website

called block layer comm and it gets into

the mathematics of kerf bending and it

talks about spacing and then how many

kerf you need I wanted to avoid that

because figuring out how many curves you

need and spacing can be a barrier to

experimenting so I just spaced the curse

out to the width of my blade and just

kept cutting if you cut too many not a

big deal if you don't cut enough you'll

know because the piece won't Bend far

enough if the inside of your project is

going to be seen one way to cover that

up

is to get some paperback veneer and use

some contact cement and glue that on

there and that'll hide that just fine

you can go against the grain and also

with the grain going with the grain you

can actually vent a lot further I found

if the wood starts to crack get it wet

let it sit for a little bit in in that

curved position and then you can

actually bend it even more you can do

this with solid wood as well this is

walnut some woods are going to work

better than others and you can see I

left just a little bit of a veneer

thickness on the top there that is it

folks we'll see you next week with a

brand new project as always be safe have

fun stay passionate and

make something

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