Acrylic Bending (for Dummies)

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hey everybody today we're playing with

acrylic and bending it with a line

bender - quick disclaimers one I am not

very good at this this is more art than

science we know some guys who are very

very good at this and they do some great

work I'm not that guy

they taught me everything that I know

but they still know a lot more than I do

disclaimer number two this line vendor

is way too long for our purposes but

this the one that I have so it's not I'm

gonna use moving on and in playing with

plastic I'm going to remake our

unfortunately late dust rod for the CNC

machine with a couple of modifications



modification number one since the move

our CNC machine is in a different

configuration so our natural start point

is down at the bottom to where this is

overhanging the edge so this is where

the suction is coming from and it's just

sucking void so you're it's not actually

getting dust from this side so we are

remaking it a little more like so so

that suction comes from here and it's

always going to pull from here because

this clear I'm not sure you can see it

but this will be covered when it goes

that over the edge of the table we're

going to put the door on the other side

because the desk is down to the side and

I'm gonna make it less broken that's

kind of the main thing so line bending

this this is a line bender you can

probably based in the name tell what

that's gonna do I did this one a week or

so ago and it came out honestly I'm

pretty proud of how well it came out

considering the fact that as I said I'm

not great at this it's more art than

science and I didn't have the space that

all my bends are going to take up exact

but I came pretty close so with this

going here it's a little long here and I

had to kind of shrink up the backside on

the recut piece so we're gonna peel the

plastic on this put them on the bender

and we're gonna start bending

oh and before I start one of the quick

points to save myself some headache on

my cut I went and put in Doc's reach Ben

should you have to be starting and

stopping so that I can take those dots

get him lined up

get him square


weighted down and camp to 11 minutes

because that's so long this takes so I

go get my phone and set a timer a quick

note as to how I came to eleven minutes

for this heat of bender and this

thickness of acrylic

it was cheer trial and error and in this

camera so you can kind of see this

little crack right here that's where on

the first time around I got a little

touch impatient and try to bend it soon

it was ready and it cracked just a

little bit so 11 minutes and I think

we're like a couple of seconds from our

11 minute mark so I will show you on a

subsequent one how this kind of gets a

ripple effect going through it but for

right now I'm just going to do the bend

and yeah so you are going this way and

I'm just using blocks as a hard stop for

my my 90 degrees and later on I've got

another one cut that'll do my 60s yeah

so Mark's gonna wipe this down with some

cold water to help cool it off a little

faster and make it set

yeah and pretty much did it so you can

see there we got a good 90 on that and

as part of aforementioned I'm not

perfect at this you can see is a little

bit a little bit of dots in here that's

where that's where the irregularities in

the fiber that makes up the actual blind

bender were closer or farther from the

piece so we've got a little bit melty

here if I are professional this would be


this ressure piece this would be bad but

this is my dust collector so it's

perfect and moving on we'll go to the

next bent

that's enough that

I'm going I don't care I don't care

about your timer I'm going I'm living


I'm noticing that as we do subsequent

bends we're getting more and more little

bubbles in there that's because the

heating element is continuing to get

hotter as we go and we were leaving it

on there for the same amount of time so

we're gonna go down from 11 minutes to

like 10 and a half or even just 10 see

you in 10 minutes


this came up pretty well as you can see

in this camera here the massage the

bends a little bit but it's going right

where it's supposed to be the one small

thing is that cuz I never actually the

CAD model this one I just kind of

modified my old one which was a CAD

model into into 2d the bottom kind of

extra shield here is coming past the

line of where the the door needs to be

so I just need to cut that off so that's

pretty much a non-issue next step is

gonna remake these arms so this is the

bottom dust shroud a bit that has to be

in this tight to go in between the the

pylons that the whole gantry stands on

but it's got to come out this far so

that I can actually get up around the

the spindle housing so I have to figure

out again what that distance is and then

make a spacer block that distance to do

the first Bend and then do the second

bend to lay it back down that same

distance remembered halfway through

setting up before that we actually had

some extra line bender tapes so I rigged

those up in a minimally dangerous

fashion temporarily with our spacing

here where this lets me do is that if I

can only do one at a time

I would have to to get to get this so I

would have to do this line Bend that up

and then put this one in the exact

perfect place for that angle to get my 1

and 1/8 inch offset right there however

if I can get both those points to be

able to bend at the same time I can then

just set it on some one and one in 3/16

one and eighth whatever we cut one in

3/16 is our actual spacing

spacers and it'll just kind of

automatically just flop over to flop

over to that configuration I'm taking

weird hand gestures here that don't just

show you probably a time lapse

looking at what we can do is get glue in

here and then ways up put that up and

once that gets in place yeah I so it was

pretty good this can be glued basically

because of where it is now because it's

gonna move a half of its language well

yep and here we have the finished

product it's all nice and clear and

clean and not broken which is kind of

the key thing I was going for on this

new one I think what I think I like

talking about this is I like going back

to using material but I don't often to

work with and relearning old stuff and

then learning some new stuff on top of

that so as I said finished product comes

down and tapers around so that the the

Booch doesn't hit the the towers that

hold up the the y-axis we got the

aluminum strips here to keep the brushes

on on my older version I had a wave

overcomplicated system because I was

trying to outsmart myself in it was just

a big pain in the ass so this is this is

simple we got the door back here for

access to the bits we can just visually

inspect going to zero on the z-axis and

yeah it works got the the bottom part

here that so when suctions happening

happening even on the edge of the bed

we're still getting good suction we

recently read zero eyes the whole bed we

got a new piece of material under this

for our sacrificial bed and zeroing that

you're removing about 1/32 of material

over the entire four foot by four foot

area which mats out to a large volume of

dust which was all very well collected

and into the separator over there

calling this one a success

mostly because I haven't started

designing a version for in my head yet

I'm gonna I'm gonna stick with three for

a while that's all I got for right now

we will see you next time

action spindle action spend all that

doesn't do anything