bend

How To Bend Baseboard Around a Curved Wall [video #288]



Sharing buttons:

either I put him in art and in today's

workshop I'm going to show you how I

bend skirting board of baseboard to fit

around a curved wall that's coming up

next so I put a picture up on my

Instagram week or two back but an old

job that I did that had a curved wall

another foot of this and had a curved

baseboard a good coat skirting board I

didn't really think too much of it but

it is far and away the most liked still

picture I've ever had not Instagram if

you don't follow me on instagram give it

a try I used to be a photographer I take

a decent snap so off anyway I thought

I'd just do a quick recap of how that

skirting board came about and how you do

it is a very simple technique called

curve cutting and it's a question of

scouring the inside of the skirting

board with very consistent in both

spacing and depth

curved cuts are literally the thickness

of the blade slightly more than the

thickness of the blade apart and

providing you keep that consistent and

even that will actually Bend very nicely

through 90 degrees now if you're doing

this around if it's a run of skirting

that then goes around a corner and

continues on obviously you'll need to

mark up where you want those curved cuts

to come rather than trying to join those

pieces in and that's easier to do is

just sort of offer the skirting up put a

mark on where than 90 degree weather

where the curve begins and then follow

that curve around with the skirting

board and put another mark and then

that's where you know that your curve

cuts need to be now it doesn't matter

how you do your curve cuts I've done

over the plunge saw or a miter saw but

if you use a miter saw it must have a

trenching cut so when you're doing these

trenching cuts when you're going to make

sure that you go all the way through the

material from side to side at a

consistent depth to remember you're only

going to leave about one one and a half

a mil of actual tree meat left in that

workpiece so you've got to be very

careful

about how consistent you are how much

pressure you apply to the saw as you

make that crosscut because that can

affect the depth of cutting the other

thing you can do you'll need to do if

you are using a miter saw is fairly

obviously we talked about this in the

Trachsel workshop you just saw that the

depth of the maximum depth of cut of the

saw blade is only ever at the center so

you've got to make sure that that blade

goes all the way through and if you've

raised the depth of cut slightly to

leave that trench you're not going to

get all the way through the material it

won't be consistent all the way across

so what you do to get around that is

typically to put a false fence in on the

workpiece a sacrificial fence ideally

because then that also gives you a cut

line to gauge where your next cut needs

to go and the other thing you've got to

keep an eye on is the material itself

obviously when you've only got one or

one and a half mil of material thickness

left on the workpiece it needs to be

absolutely flat while you're making

these cuts I started this one earlier on

when I was doing the test pieces before

I realized that it had a slight cup a

slight twist to it

and that was enough just to throw off

the depth of cut completely at one end I

don't know if you can see that well if I

pop a light behind it maybe you see it's

not too bad at the base but much much

thinner up towards the top and that

inconsistency was enough just to make it

snap now that's not such a bad thing if

you've only done half a dozen cuts if

you've done 20 or 30 guts and then that

happens it would really kind of ruin

your day and these cuts need to be

consistent slightly more than the

thickness of the saw kerf I found to be

particularly good you can take it

thinner but then you run the risk of

getting it too thin and if that happens

if you start getting bits that are

missing then it's very easy to get those

flat sort of slightly plain sides to it

plus of course if you do go too thin

with it it's very easy to snap one of

the ends off which is what happened to

me here that I'm more observant amongst

you might have noticed that there I've

actually done this three times there are

slight

cast changes amongst the work pieces

which

the various little bits and pieces of me

doing the fast-forwarding but really

that's that's all there is to it it's a

simple careful technique that works

really well there's no steaming there's

no fancy footwork involved it's just a

question of making small accurate cuts

with a very fine tolerance that just

allows the natural timber to curve

around like that now obviously it's

relatively easy to use this technique on

a square edged board like this much more

challenging if you've got some kind of

molding involved along the top although

the molding will of course hide a lot of

these kerf cuts I'm fortunate that

they're the ones I've done have all been

square edged timber and they've actually

had a painted finish which has been

which has made life a lot easier for the

finishing because I can just fill those

and paint over them if it had been a

natural timber finish and they both went

in as a natural timber then I'd have had

to have filled that with the old sawdust

and wood glue trick I think and then try

and get as clean a finish on the top of

that as possible so when would you want

to use a technique like this well pretty

much any time when you want to shape a

piece of wood around a curve basically a

bay window springs to mind or maybe at

the foot of a stairs or around a curved

wall perhaps the one that I used this

for originally where I showed you the

picture of earlier was actually in one

of the last big bathroom bills that I

did and that had a curved wall by design

and I'll be going through that job in a

future video so keep your eyes peeled

for that on a series of videos actually

where I take you through some old of

jobs that were interesting that I

managed to do pre-youtube I won't have

videos of those but I usually have lots

of photos of the bills I know who can

imagine a life pre-youtube before you go

then I just remind you that the best way

not to miss one of my videos is to

subscribe to the channel and if you do

subscribe don't forget to hit that bell

and you'll be notified whenever I put up

some of the new or when YouTube gets

around to it because it's a little bit

flaky to be perfectly honest do you take

a minute as well to check out the

description box below the video as

there's all kinds of handy-dandy little

bits and pieces and links

all manner of useful stuff including the

stuff I use in this video as well as

links to support the channel through

patreon or PayPal and I want to take a

minute just to thank everybody who

provides their support either through

the patreon process or through one off

of recurring donations you are quite

literally helping me keep the lights on

here as I mentioned at the top of the

video I post to Instagram most days so

try giving me a follow there the maker

community is pretty big a mystery on so

even if you don't find the stuff I post

of any particular interest that's behind

the scenes photos short film videos and

trailers for the YouTube stuff then you

probably find something else worth

looking at but that's it for this video

thanks so much for watching the ten

minute workshop which is never two

minutes and I'll see you next time

[Music]

you

[Music]

you