How to bend
Baseboard
How To Bend Baseboard Around a Curved Wall [video #288]
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either I put him in art and in today's
workshop I'm going to show you how I
bend skirting board of baseboard to fit
around a curved wall that's coming up
next so I put a picture up on my
Instagram week or two back but an old
job that I did that had a curved wall
another foot of this and had a curved
baseboard a good coat skirting board I
didn't really think too much of it but
it is far and away the most liked still
picture I've ever had not Instagram if
you don't follow me on instagram give it
a try I used to be a photographer I take
a decent snap so off anyway I thought
I'd just do a quick recap of how that
skirting board came about and how you do
it is a very simple technique called
curve cutting and it's a question of
scouring the inside of the skirting
board with very consistent in both
spacing and depth
curved cuts are literally the thickness
of the blade slightly more than the
thickness of the blade apart and
providing you keep that consistent and
even that will actually Bend very nicely
through 90 degrees now if you're doing
this around if it's a run of skirting
that then goes around a corner and
continues on obviously you'll need to
mark up where you want those curved cuts
to come rather than trying to join those
pieces in and that's easier to do is
just sort of offer the skirting up put a
mark on where than 90 degree weather
where the curve begins and then follow
that curve around with the skirting
board and put another mark and then
that's where you know that your curve
cuts need to be now it doesn't matter
how you do your curve cuts I've done
over the plunge saw or a miter saw but
if you use a miter saw it must have a
trenching cut so when you're doing these
trenching cuts when you're going to make
sure that you go all the way through the
material from side to side at a
consistent depth to remember you're only
going to leave about one one and a half
a mil of actual tree meat left in that
workpiece so you've got to be very
careful
about how consistent you are how much
pressure you apply to the saw as you
make that crosscut because that can
affect the depth of cutting the other
thing you can do you'll need to do if
you are using a miter saw is fairly
obviously we talked about this in the
Trachsel workshop you just saw that the
depth of the maximum depth of cut of the
saw blade is only ever at the center so
you've got to make sure that that blade
goes all the way through and if you've
raised the depth of cut slightly to
leave that trench you're not going to
get all the way through the material it
won't be consistent all the way across
so what you do to get around that is
typically to put a false fence in on the
workpiece a sacrificial fence ideally
because then that also gives you a cut
line to gauge where your next cut needs
to go and the other thing you've got to
keep an eye on is the material itself
obviously when you've only got one or
one and a half mil of material thickness
left on the workpiece it needs to be
absolutely flat while you're making
these cuts I started this one earlier on
when I was doing the test pieces before
I realized that it had a slight cup a
slight twist to it
and that was enough just to throw off
the depth of cut completely at one end I
don't know if you can see that well if I
pop a light behind it maybe you see it's
not too bad at the base but much much
thinner up towards the top and that
inconsistency was enough just to make it
snap now that's not such a bad thing if
you've only done half a dozen cuts if
you've done 20 or 30 guts and then that
happens it would really kind of ruin
your day and these cuts need to be
consistent slightly more than the
thickness of the saw kerf I found to be
particularly good you can take it
thinner but then you run the risk of
getting it too thin and if that happens
if you start getting bits that are
missing then it's very easy to get those
flat sort of slightly plain sides to it
plus of course if you do go too thin
with it it's very easy to snap one of
the ends off which is what happened to
me here that I'm more observant amongst
you might have noticed that there I've
actually done this three times there are
slight
cast changes amongst the work pieces
which
the various little bits and pieces of me
doing the fast-forwarding but really
that's that's all there is to it it's a
simple careful technique that works
really well there's no steaming there's
no fancy footwork involved it's just a
question of making small accurate cuts
with a very fine tolerance that just
allows the natural timber to curve
around like that now obviously it's
relatively easy to use this technique on
a square edged board like this much more
challenging if you've got some kind of
molding involved along the top although
the molding will of course hide a lot of
these kerf cuts I'm fortunate that
they're the ones I've done have all been
square edged timber and they've actually
had a painted finish which has been
which has made life a lot easier for the
finishing because I can just fill those
and paint over them if it had been a
natural timber finish and they both went
in as a natural timber then I'd have had
to have filled that with the old sawdust
and wood glue trick I think and then try
and get as clean a finish on the top of
that as possible so when would you want
to use a technique like this well pretty
much any time when you want to shape a
piece of wood around a curve basically a
bay window springs to mind or maybe at
the foot of a stairs or around a curved
wall perhaps the one that I used this
for originally where I showed you the
picture of earlier was actually in one
of the last big bathroom bills that I
did and that had a curved wall by design
and I'll be going through that job in a
future video so keep your eyes peeled
for that on a series of videos actually
where I take you through some old of
jobs that were interesting that I
managed to do pre-youtube I won't have
videos of those but I usually have lots
of photos of the bills I know who can
imagine a life pre-youtube before you go
then I just remind you that the best way
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there's all kinds of handy-dandy little
bits and pieces and links
all manner of useful stuff including the
stuff I use in this video as well as
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minute just to thank everybody who
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probably find something else worth
looking at but that's it for this video
thanks so much for watching the ten
minute workshop which is never two
minutes and I'll see you next time
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you
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you
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