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hello and welcome to the channel today
we're gonna be working on the mx-5 donor
car
the Phoenix need to sort out an engine
code problem and bought the car as a
donor so it's going to be stripped down
it's going to be used in a Heinzman
roaster project but I want to get rid of
all the problems that the cars got
before I start stripping it so I know
that I've got a good working car now the
car cane with a coolant leak which have
yet to solve but the engine runs the
owner said just needed to top it up
occasionally could be something serious
could be something simple but I'll look
into that
but today's fault we're gonna be looking
at the engine management because I've
had a code pop up and it's been sitting
for a long while so I'm guessing that
might have something to do with it so
let's crack look at the engine
management problems I'm going to be
using this cheap little obd2 reader and
the talk light program so let's get it
booted up and see if we can find out
what the page we've got a talk like
program up so what I'm going to do now
I've already paired it to the car and
bring up the fault codes so
will show logged fault first so it's
going in there now trying to figure out
what's up so we've got a code of p03
would okay
so we'll come out of there again so
you're going to go back in again fold
codes again show pending folks just to
see if there's any faults there
so no pending folks we've just got one
fault so we can always try the quick
thing there's clear logged faults ok so
clearing logged folks on their engine
lights gone off on the dash so we know
that's actually working so what we'll do
now is just go back in again show logged
faults see if anything comes back up
again
no fault right so going fault codes
again and this if there's any pending
folks to see if there's anything
actually just sitting there waiting to
come up
so there it again po3 one so even though
we've lost the engine light it's still
telling us and I'm just giving me a bit
blip to see if I can read you're not yet
it's still telling us that we've got a
fault there so I'm gonna turn the engine
off bring the engine back up again
nothing no the engine lights now we've
got an engine light back on the dash
again so it just shows that the fault
code so and so now let's have a look at
show logged faults just like point out
the engine needs up to operating
temperature at the moment so everything
should be working
so it's pro3 one again so let's go in
there and let's see if we can look at
some live data I've looked it up and
it's come up as an oxygen sensor heating
low so looking at it it's the pre cat
oxygen sensor that's showing a low
heater voltage on that side so what I've
done is a bought of a graph just to see
what the actual lamda sensors doing
they'll give the vehicle a bit of a rev
and as we can see it's moving up and
down absolutely fired it's working fine
so that's it working to temperature so
this actually have a look at the oxygen
sensor and see what's up with it on that
side okay so I've located the oxygen
sensor the way I found it was I followed
the oxygen sensor wire from the front
oxygen all the way up and I've located
it to this connector now going online
I've ascertained that the wires that I
need to look in out of the two black
wires the blue and white of the signal
wires we know that's good because we've
seen that inside the car getting a good
signal and what it's saying is that my
heater side of the element is not
working so that's these two wires here
so first things first I'm gonna
disconnect it and I'm gonna check I've
got voltage now I've set just set my
multimeter up for a second I'm just
going to touch it to the engine to give
myself a good at the point
just gonna check put it on so it makes
it a little bit of a noise there we up
so it's telling us now that we've got a
good earth contact so what I'm now going
to do now is switch it to voltage and
I'm just gonna probe one of the probe
these two on the left so just have a
look I think nothing which is good we do
not want to find a voltage that could
mean that it's on all the time so first
of all all I've done at the moment he's
just connected it up to the top
connector so it's just sitting there
[Music]
okay
okay so I've just switched the ignition
on and we are now getting twelve point
four three volts through that so we know
we've got a good feed so we know we've
got the power so the next thing I could
do is just check to see if we've got
earth going through the ETU
but as I know we're getting power now my
next port call is I'm just gonna give
this a test to see what this is actually
doing
[Music]
okay so we now know that we're getting
12 volt voltage down to the plug so what
we want to do now is just check to see
what we're actually getting out of the
connector so what I've done now is I've
disconnected the connector just to give
myself a bit more room so I can actually
look at it the two wires we actually
want to contract on the two black wires
because a blue and white are the signal
wires now we check that with the OBD to
read up and it was shown that we were
getting a signal from this the end of
mind you the engine has been heated up
it has been warmed up to ensure that
we've got a good operating temperature
what so now I'm gonna do is I'm just
going to put some back probes into here
just because my meter probes could not
fit in there so we've got those in now
and what we're gonna do now is just
connected up make sure they're not
touching so that we're going connected
so now I've changed put may I meet up to
I'm reading and what we should be
reading excuse my camerawork see if I'll
get this in focus we should be reading
between should be reading 15.7 that
we've got absolutely not think it's
shown open circuit so somewhere in there
there's a break there's a break in that
circuit and it's not working well what I
want to do now is we've tested this in
its chosen quantity I want to just make
sure that my back probes are actually
making contact with the circuit so know
what I've used is a lead that actually
spikes put a spike into the wire it's
not necessarily something you want to do
is throw away because straightway I've
now opened up the insulation and if this
is not the problem it's now caused and
opening that corrosion can get into if
we reuse it so now what I'm going to do
is just just run the tester and as you
can see from the audible no of the the
tester is telling me that that black
probe has made a circuit so what I'm now
going to do is I'm going to do is that
the same thing on the bottom wire swap
my lead over just to make sure we've got
a circuit and we have so we know those
back probes are working fine so we've
eliminated that the back probes are
causing a problem they are actually were
to have a test from the wires just
coming out the lambda sensor to here to
make sure we haven't got a break in
these wires
we're not got breaking it was what we
have determined is that that oxygen
sensor has now gone wrong
he's gone open-circuit so the heating
element has actually burnt out nothing
we can do other than replacing the
sensor so first of all let's not get
this all script down
[Music]
[Music]
what we want to do now is been test the
water between here and here to make sure
there isn't a break in the heater wiring
and that's causing our problems
take the connector out back prove it in
connect our wire up to here now what I'm
about to do just damaged the wires and
it causes there was a point to it to go
open sir to for corrosion let me put
that in there now turn the meter on may
cause I'm inaudible noise because I just
want to be I look at it Chinchin tips
about this
there we are they have a look I'm
choosing the Wawa first time so take it
off a second just put this second wiring
so leaking a bit and what we're going to
do and we'll swap it over the second
black wire here love you did mix it up
the wire back in and again we can touch
it up if we want to do
there we are so what that's telling us
it isn't a break between here and the
connector so we've got any wiring issues
the actual issue is with the sensor the
heating element in the centers got an
open circuit it's burnt through it's
obviously gone through enough heat
cycles that it's finally burnt out just
like a light bulb will so what I
actually need now is a new sensor now
I'm not going to fit a new sensor to
this because this engine's going in
Haynes roadster and it's going to have a
wideband oxygen sensor so this sensor
was actually no use to me anyway so if I
was to Wouter
this was actually going back on the road
this car what I would need to do is just
replace this sensor screw it back in
there plug it back in go back into the
vehicle and clear this clear the codes
that's that problem sorted turns out
it's the oxygen sensors heating element
that's gone wrong and say we won't be
replacing that one because when it comes
to the build I'll be putting in a
wideband optional sensor that's one more
problem ticked off the list though only
a couple more to go and then we can
start stripping the vehicle down ready
to get it put into the new chassis well
still going to build the chassis so
until next time thank you for watching
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