FTF #54 How To Install Handrail Posts, Quick And Easy

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alright guys welcome back to free tip

Friday today we are installing handrail

posts on the deck so I thought I'd give

you a little run through on how I

prefabricate mine and install them just

the free tutorial Friday so what I'm

basically free tutorial fried what I've

done to start you square the line all

the way around all four sides so now I'm

going to fast at the top of the middle

post give it a little six look and then

so shoot there to 15 degrees let's

follow that line using this big ugly

rigid Pig here's my buddy Nate's up my

bearings are shot on my Dewalt

close enough

fix the rest of the file there we cut

close to lakes and so I'm doing a 41

inch post over all my handrails are

going to be at about 38 36 inches is

minimum code for the height of deck that

I have typically it's 42 inches but I

can get away with 36 on this deck lower

than a 5 foot drop so so I've got my

faceted top here I'm going to make half

an h-back square another line down all

the way around just a reference line and

then I'm going to round over these edges

take off that real sharp look on an

amount of expand of the sheriff look you

haven't noticed


so the this sander kind of does a bit of

a rough job and I'm going to smooth it

out with my palm sander you can see all

the cannons in the theater here that

hold a lot of moisture that's just kind

of weeping out the end grain once the

post dries those will all blend in the

color will just be uniform throughout

once it just that moisture gets drawn

out and dried up in the Sun so


hit these corners you want a round over


and if your lines that the edges of your

facets or whatever aren't art you know

they kind of got a little bit of wobble

in them I just take my it with sake file

here you can get these on my Amazon

store great file super sharp and last


way better than like a bastard file and

you can just kind of come along and take

down any of the squirrely bits

straighten out those lines so that they

all intersect defeat nicely after we got

your posts also ended up looking good

find your Center here go to the corner

drill a hole

all right let's you get you hole drill

threaded rods going to go in like up now

we need to drill a hole in from the side

to meet the top of that rod so we can

get a nut washer on so we're going to go

Center you got to have a minimum of our

maximum of four inch space from the deck

to the bottom of your handrail and I'm

going to be using like a three by three

so I'm going to go with six inches to

Center that way when I drill my

inch-and-a-half hole the force in a bit

when I put my rail along is going to

cover over that plug hole so you won't

even see it you don't want to go too low

right because then you have less wood

the rod has less tension it because not

going as far up into the post of the

post will have a little bit more wobble

the lower you go so you want to go as

high as possible you can go even higher

and then just plug your hole but you

will see it

taking six this will be a happy medium

using an inch and a half ride force to

force move it come out black again do

this with a drill press if you are

really clean perfectly straight hole but

a lot of guys don't have access to drill

presses on job sites you can this user

corded drill just the same

so once I got my hole drilled out you

can see that my center hole is coming up

nice and centered in the middle there I

just take a little chisel and I just

carve out the inside here carve a little

flat spot you know because the holes

around right so the washer doesn't want

to doesn't want to sit flat so I'm just

chiseling down the inside here so it's

got a little flat bearing now we can

take this up on the deck drill a hole

through drop or down

and nut on the bottom good to go and

this should be about middle of the rim

joist right there I was thinking about

going right in between the double rim

joist as the auger bit will likely

follow the crack the seam in between the

two joist a little better but that would

put my post too far in because I drilled

the hole Center so I'm just going to

have to try and wing it right through

here I'm going to tilt the drill bit a

little bit in so that I don't blow out

the side of the the joist I'd rather

have it go in towards the second member

because whether they all thread is

perfect the threaded rod is perfectly

plumb or not it's not that critical once

the tension pulls down the post it's the

square cut on the bottom of the post

that's going to hold the post level and

we could put some little plastic shims

in it to level it out so I'll just drill

the hole and I'll just walk through this


okay make sure y'all grab it so nice and


and once I've cut by I've cut my all

thread counter select the hole on the

bottom so they don't have a bolt

sticking out I'm just going to put a

little towel over the edges here then

I'm staying this post yet and I'm going

to sprayed it primer for my membrane

bottom that seals up seals up the pores

cut a piece of membrane and sign in the

membrane prevents any water from soaking

into that end grain over time now let's

install this beast

now we put the washer and the nut on

about 3/8 out of plumb that way half

that way they're going to be a little

bit of Shimon so I always keep scrap

leftovers of this Packer timber tech or

trex decking PVC material especially for

using it for shims so just give us a

little slight angle a couple degrees

soft lips

yeah let's play find the [ __ ] there's a

tapered little 1 6 th in there that cut


Easy's to go straight in our post post

the top end needs to go that way about

half an inch so we're going to shim this

side of toast and this top used to go

that way about strong quarter of an inch

so we're going to ship this side perfect

trim up your shins here okay buddy the

shins and the membrane just create kind

of a little black shadow line that goes

around the base of the post it's really

not that noticeable at all oh it's good

and snug she ain't going nowhere

what's the Rayleigh's lock it all

together that way to the house and this

way on the corner going to be the

concrete man here's a look at the

underside of the deck I just used the

inch and a half

fortunatelly bit to countersink up

around the hole that I drilled through

there drop the nut on that way when

you're standing back you don't see any

bolts sticking out here obvious system a

lot using gates and taller posts for you

know fences and stuff like that which I

don't want to cast into concrete I've

never used it in this situation on a

deck for any but I think it's going to

be great

saves you a bunch of time not having a

notch and cut in your post during the

framing stage and the post being sitting

on top of the deck like this doesn't

allow any water to get trapped where

it's notched around your framing that's

always where posts rot out where they're

locked onto your framing and the decking

don't bite it up and the water gets

trapped in there and wraps it up this

way these posts will never rot no

moisture can get absorbed from the

bottom and if anybody was to damage this

post or anything it's an easy fix you

just undo the bolt slide the post out

put a new one in easy-peasy so doesn't

take a tremendous amount of skill it's

super fast and convenient and it lasts

way longer alright so last but not least

we've got this plug hole to deal with

Lee Valley to low sells an inch and a

half plug cutter I'm sure you can

probably get them other places you can

plug that but in this case I'll probably

still plug it but I'm going to have

about a 4-inch space three and a half

inch space and then a three by three is

going to be the bottom for my pickets to

sit on so that's going to cover that

perfectly so I'm just going to orient

all my plug holes to be running the

length of the deck right so that all the

bottom rails will cover them over and

you won't see any plug holes and then

I'll just toast screw from the underside

my bottom rails into the post I'm not

going to do any fancy joinery there

because that's just a water trap kind of

hazard railings will last a lot longer

if you just bought them in and pocket

screw them yes even the samurai users

pocket screws

so I'd love to hear what you think of

this technique guys shoot me a comment

down below ask me any questions you want

if you're interested in any of the tools

you see in this video a lot of them are

available on my website

Sam recovery comm till next time guys

samurai o