How To Install Underlay [Floor]

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hi I'm Shannon from host improvements

comm and today I want to show you how I

would lay underlay preparing for vinyl

flooring in this bathroom so the product

we're going to be laying this is just a

small sample of it is basically a

pressed board glue and wood chips

pressed together this stuff is about I

think five sixteenths thick and it comes

in four by eight sheets I think you can

also get it in four by four sheets just

depending on what you exactly need so

this is just a sample like I said we're

going to show you how to mark it out cut

it and fasten it in place and then it's

ready to prep for vinyl so one of the

first things though before we even get

to that is we actually need to get the

subfloor itself this floor here that's

in your in your room whether it's

bathroom kitchen whatever what-have-you

here we've got five eighths plywood was

the original subfloor we went through it

was all nailed down before so we went

through and we added screws about every

six inches just to take out any squeaks

or loose spots or anything so we did

that in preparation one other thing we

did here here's the toilet flange this

just doesn't glued on yet so around the

original toilet flange the toilet

obviously had been leaking for a while

there was a bit of rot so we would cut

out a pretty good patch and replaced it

and reinforced it with some extra

blocking down below and then screwed and

glued it into place you might be able to

see a bit of staining here still that

definitely did get wet at some time but

we just cut as far as we needed to to

get rid of any of the real rot so so

that's one thing I'm just going to cover

this up so much sewer gas I left this

loose so that we could put down our

underlay and then put this in place this

should be sitting on top of the underlay

it's not a hundred percent necessary but

we're able to do that in this case so

that's why it's loose anything else

that's protruding out of the floor you

need to be able to measure

or and get your underlay in here we've

got a hot air vent over here got a few

water lines over here so these are all

protrusions that need to be cut out so

that we can get the sheet laid in here

something else talked about you you can

see this green strip of tape I've put on

the front of the new tub basically

that's there just to protect the tub so

we don't scratch it

and also when if you watch my next video

on prepping this floor in order to lay

vinyl you'll see that we use some

concrete kind of leveling product on

here and it's just to keep that from

getting on the tub so that tape

obviously will be stripped off

afterwards so that's one thing now

another thing that you need to remember

when planning this out

in this room our floor joists are going

this direction to kind of go on the

length of the room here

the original sheeting was laid

perpendicular to them which is correct

and we're actually going to follow that

same direction so our sheets are going

to run perpendicular to the four joists

as well but what we want to try to do is

not have our joints in our underlay line

up with the joints and the plywood so we

want to stagger the joints from how the

plywood was laid and this particular

room it works out well we can start with

a sheet that's around five feet long

here and four feet wide and come up

against the tub and actually we end up

about a foot from the other joint in the

original plywood sole so that's all

going to work out quite fine if it

didn't work out we would just cut this

first sheet in order to stagger our

joints something else when you lay that

first sheet in I like to leave you know

a sixteenth of an inch or so between the

sheet and the tub and the reason for

that is these fiberglass and acrylic

tubs they will sometimes get a bit of

flex to them when people are getting in

and out and when they flex that means

they're moving slightly and if you're

right tight you'll sometimes get a

squeaking sound between the wood and the

face of the tub so I leave just a little

bit of a space

there and that way we can hopefully

prevent any squeaking that isn't

necessary now something else that we can

talk about before we really get into the

project is fastening it down

most commonly most people will use these

ring nails and you can find them at

pretty much any hardware store they're

going to sell ring nails you would want

to be at least I would say three times

longer in length than what the actual

thickness is that you're putting down so

you know we're putting down pretty much

three three-eighths type underlay so

you'd want to be come out two inch and a

quarter or whatever no sorry

yeah but at least inch and quarter and

that's probably what these are so

they're just kind of ribbed they

supposedly basically are not supposed to

pull out I've found that these over time

over a period of about ten years

sometimes these will still squeak a

little bit they start to work their way

loose so I've kind of stopped using them

but they're still rather they're still

actually the recommended fastener and

they just simply hammer in with a normal

hammer so that's the one that's one

thing usually what I'll do I'll put my

sheets down and I might just tack the

sheets you know in the corners with

these just to keep it from moving while

I'm putting the other sheets in what I

actually use is called a diversion point

staple so I shoot these in with a err

stapler and these are designed and I

know you won't be able to zoom in enough

but the actual points on the two legs of

the staples are clipped off at opposite

sides so that what happens when the

staple drives instead just the two

points driving straight down like a

generally a normal staple would these

ones are clipped on two different sides

so they actually want to go one

direction and want to go the other which

actually creates a little more holding

power because it's harder for them to


work their way straight out because of

the force of those angles working

against it so so these are getting a

little harder to find at least here in

Canada but I've still got a bit of a

stockpile so so that's what I use

something else and I'll point it out

when we get right out to the sheet you

really can't tell on this on the sample

there is one spot but there's the

underlay is going to be marked for where

all the nails or staples whatever you're

using the fasteners need to go there'll

be a little painted X or dot or whatever

on there and so that that's the

recommended amount of staples I believe

now I'm not even sure I think in the

main field of the of the sheet it's four

inches apart and along the edges every

two inches so it takes quite a few

fasteners to hold it down to keep it

flat and level so I think the next thing

we're going to do I've kind of got

things pre-cut but we're going to go out

to where I've got them sitting on the

sawhorse just so I can show you what the

sheet looks like show you some of the

cuts I did when you're measuring like

the width of the room this room was

fifty nine and a half inches I believe

it was so I went just you know quarter

inch less than that because by the time

you put your baseboards on and not it's

it's going to cover anyways and it'll

just give you a little bit more room

same thing around anything you're

cutting out leave some extra space so

that you can easily you know maneuver

around it remember we've still got to

put in some some planing patch some kind

of patching compound so you know if

there's some small imperfections we can

fill that up with there without okay I

think I think we're ready to go look at

that sheet okay so we just came out here

in the other room where there's a little

little more space so I was just talking

about the nailing marks on the sheet and

actually I guess there's six inches

apart out here in the main area and

there are three inches apart on the

edges so you can see the little little

marks they have there for their

suggestion of where to nail it and and

stick with their suggestion it's there

for a reason so use it you can just see

some of the cuts obviously I've got it

cut to length here we're 59 and a

quarter or whatever it was

I've got some cuts here because the

floor register starts to lead

to the sheet here got the cutout for the

toilet flange the toilet water supply

and another water supply over here for

the vanity so not too much to show you

basically just mark everything out cut

it out I used a combination of a jigsaw

and a circular saw to make all these

cuts so not too much as far as as that

goes now our other piece I'll just flip

it up here right on top of this first

one so here's our other piece you can

see we've got the continuation of the

air-vent there and another cutout and

jog here where the where the closet is

so just thought it was worth showing you

but yet didn't think you really need to

see me cutting it out physically I'm

thinking if you don't know how to use

those tools you probably shouldn't be

doing this job anyway so measure once


measure twice cut once as the old saying

goes and you should be alright with that

so and it doesn't hurt take it in there

dry fit it make sure everything fits and

lines up properly and you can always

bring it back out and trim it up so okay

so we're going to move these I'm going

to start taking these into the bathroom

and we'll get the first one this one

here laying in place okay so we're back

in the bathroom here I've brought the

first piece in we're going to get ready

to lay it down something else I didn't

mention is to make sure you vacuum the

floor really well bring in your shopback

get any little slivers of wood or lumps

of mud or anything like that and scraped

up and cleaned up so here we go

hopefully she fits the first time so you

can see I'm just kind of sliding it over

you can see my water line cuts are

actually slotted so that I can slip it

underneath there slide it over try not

to hit my new walls

just like soul so that I'm just going to

go over along the edge of the tub kind

of get myself orientated to the space I

want just like that so I've got a little

a little more space here in the middle

the front of the tub must have a little

bit of a bow in it but I've still got my

clearance on the two ends that I like so

I'm going to leave it that way if this

was excessive I would take this back out

first I would scribe a line with my

pencil just running it right along the

edge of the tub and then take it out in

jigsaw you know if it was say 1/2 inch

or something goofy like that but I can

live with this that's that's not an

issue at all so we got in around

everything my toilet flange will fit

down in there so that's good

so I'm going to take a couple ring nails

and just tack this one in place because

I'm happy with it and then I can bring

in the second piece and try it out we're

good around the vent here the one thing

with the ring nails is making sure that

what you actually want to do is leave a

little bit of a dimple so once you've

got it in there you actually want to

give it a good smack so it actually

leaves a dimple in the surface of this

you wouldn't think this would dimple

being the product is but it does and

then that'll fill in with your with your

floor patch here stick one over here for

now so that's just simply holding that

in place so it doesn't move around on us

until we can get it all stapled down so

I'll bring in the next piece and get it

leaving here hopefully it fits as good

as that one did

I will admit I did Drive hit these ones

first already and then I took them out

me the adjustments but I haven't did it

second drive fit on them so just hoping

that they kind of fit here on the second

go-around so again it's just a matter

getting it in here without hitting the

walls I've already got the walls painted

so I'm trying to cut do any damage just

kind of sliding things together here

I'm just going to get a bar the tin of

this vent is kind of holding it up a

little bit I'll get a little bar and

I'll move that out of the way if I can

okay so I'm pretty tight here but I've

got a space there so I should be able to

shift that and there just like that I'm

quite happy with that yeah everything

fits when you're butting this stuff

together something else I guess I didn't

mention is you should bring this product

in and climate eyes it to the house for

a couple days too so don't just bring it

in from outside or in the garage with

the lumber store or whatever and cut it

and put it in it needs to climate eyes

just a little bit stablize to your

humidity and temperature but also even

though this stuff's actually been in

here about a week I don't like to put

the joint the two sheets right tight

together I want to leave not you don't

even need a 16th but just just enough of

a spot there that if things expand or

anything a little bit which is usually

what's going to happen they don't put

too much pressure there and kind of

because what they have a tendency to do

is and I'm over exaggerating but they

want to do this and create a ridge there

so I'm just leaving a bit of a spot or a

bit of a space so if they do that they


and I'm just going to tack that in OOP

all kinds of stuff coming over the dam

so on your sheets where you've like I

said that you notice before where the

fastening points are a lot closer

together at any edges but of course once

you cut your sheet you end up cutting

those off so just remember that you know

like across the doorway here I want to

actually go you know about three inches

apart on there the edge of the tubs

still got the factory line on it so just

just be kind of aware of that when

you're stapling it down to make sure any

joints and edges are stapled twice as

much so so I'm going to get my

compressor plugged in get my stapler

going and staple this which doesn't take

long compared to the nailing okay so

I've got my stapler and compressor and

everything all set up more importantly

than anything as far as where to start

with stapling is I usually pick a wall

and try to work my way you know across

the room the reason for that is just so

that you don't miss a spot especially

with the staples it's if you staple

right on the black dot it's actually

hard to see the hole afterwards so it's

easy to get sidetracked and kind of miss

what you've already done so another

thing that's good is I like to be

sitting right on the area I'm stapling

just use my bodyweight to my advantage a

little chubby so it just helped hold the

floor down tight to each other so that

you're not getting any spaces there and

if you notice back here I've got to cut

them yet the pieces I cut out of the

slots I will just cut the end off and

use them kinda to fill in there to fill

in most of that

gap now honestly in this situation I

might not even do that because it's

under the vanity it will never be seen

but if it's out in a spot that's seen

like behind the water valve therefore

the toilet I'll pop a little plug of the

scrap in there just so it takes up that

void okay so it's a little loud with the

stapler and everything so I probably

won't talk much pretty self-explanatory

as far as using the stapler

this one has a safety or whatever but

they're all a little bit different so

there's no point in explaining this

exact unit to you so you can see the

stapler works really well the the main

thing to remember whether you're

stapling or you're using the ring nails

and hammering them in is that the

fastener isn't sticking up above the

surface you want to actually inset just

that a little bit and then you shouldn't

have any issues if you're using the

stapler you just want to make sure that

it's not your pressure isn't too high

and it's firing the Steep way too low to

you know as long as they're about a

sixteenth of an inch to set in there no

more than an eighth with this type

thickness of product you should be

alright so just adjust your compressor

to until it does what you need it to do

so there's no point in me showing you

finishing stapling this whole room but

you got the basic idea I'm just

following the marks that they give you

right on there can't get any simpler

than that and filling in some extra ones

along the edges where we've done some

cuts so so I think that's about all I

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